Documenting an adventure.

Getting tired of me yet?

Well another couple days down...and more lessons learned.

1. Don't save finishing for the end...it starts shortly after you start.
2. Sharpening metal into a sharp pointy shape makes your metal both sharp and pointy.
3. Outfit the bench with some band-aids.

So just a couple pictures, didn't get many progress pics this time.
Also about to put this knife aside to start the next one. Gonna drill/balance, and then heat treat after I have all the blanks that far.

Added some "hater bumps" I like em *shrug*
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I had a hell of a time cleaning up the plunge lines. I thought they were decent for a first time, just couldn't sand the files marks out. Took the file back to both sides, and eventually evened, and cleaned them up.
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The center line is a little crooked, I took the file to it again after this picture so its a lil better.
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I took the paper to all the hard edges, and will do more to soften up all the edges for a final product.
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Thats it for now. I'll be updating with some new pictures of the other knifes here soon.
Crits and suggestions always appreciated.

Zack
 
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When you cleaned up your plunge lines did you cut deeper into the blade than your bevels? It looks like you have a groove from the file right above the choil in this picture but its not as obvious in the other photos.
 
Ya I noticed that, weird lighting with the sand marks I guess. It does not dip down. Its a decent roll down to the grind. The problem I had was deep gouges from the file.
 
Ok good deal. To get the scratches out I made a sanding stick and used thick cork gasket glued to the stick and sanded round to get into the plunge line. Lets you get in there a little better as the cork has some give to it. I got the idea from Nick W.
 
Tried to take a better picture of it.

Its by no means perfect, but not as bad as that last picture looked.

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Not sure what is going on, but some of my text is breaking this post.
So I will keep it short. Started second knife. This will be a set of identical blades.

Also looking for some help with local knife makes and heat treating services. I'm in Tucson Az. I can't seem to find the info with my Google fu, or searching the forums.
Thanks, zack.
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Ok, no more 1/4" steel....ugh.

More learning and some help requests.
I learned you have to be careful with the downward force you put on your file when grinding the edge in the jig. I was putting too much pressure and bowing the file a bit. (rushing and trying to finish faster). The result was taking away more material on the blade edge and close to the spine.

I sharpied up the blade to see where the material was coming off.
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I was doing some draw filing periodically to keep things flat, when I noticed what I was doing.
You can see here the high spot. This is being removed from the draw filing.
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I also modified the jig a bit to help with draw filing.
The cord keeps the bar in the bottom of the eye bolt. Only good for draw filing, too much drag for normal filing.
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Here you can see some more of the low spots on the blade edge.
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Now I need some suggestions. (before I get beat up for not doing this before filing steel I know I know...)
So after getting one side done and holding and maneuvering the knife. I feel like the blade is too small. Plunge line is too far forward. I'm thinking about dropping the plunge line back to the choil (dotted line)
My concern is that I won't have a lot of real estate between the handle and the plunge line. So if you all don't mind, let me know what you think. Keep it as is, change it, do something completely different.
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Thanks again for the help,
Zack
 
you could build a 2x72 grinder also. i wanted one for so long but could never justify spending a $1000 so i am building one and it is probably gonna cost me about $100 when im done.
 
rincan said:
you could build a 2x72 grinder also. i wanted one for so long but could never justify spending a $1000 so i am building one and it is probably gonna cost me about $100 when im done.
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I'd like to get one eventually.
Looking for feed back on placement of the plunge line tho.
 
In terms of the plunge line, I think the answer is somewhat a matter of personal preference. Some people like a bit of ricasso, but I generally like to maximize blade length, and I agree that it would look and work better with the plunge line moved back (plus that little curve would make a good sharpening notch). Also I'm sure you're aware given all the filing time you're putting in, but a quarter inch for the size of the knives you're making is absolutely massive. 1/8" thick would be more appropriate. It would cut better and be plenty strong.
 
If it were me I'd move the plunge line like you've suggested. I would round off the finger guard (not so pointy) and then you can bring back the front of your scales a little. That would give you some room for the ricasso. You'd need to adjust the pin placement back a little too.
 
It might not look to bad to leave the top of the plunge line where it is, but grind that bottom back to the dotted line. The angle of the line appears like it would match perfectly with angle on the forward edge of the finger guard.
 
Your doing an excellent job. I might try to use a file after watching how you did it. Thanks for documenting it all
 
Lookin' great man. I've been using the same hacksaw, files, Aaron Gough jig, etc. with 1/8", can't imagine thicker...

Any advice for filing the bevel on the wharncliffe? I'm making a similar style blade - I haven't started grinding my bevel yet, but I'm wary of folding the tip over or getting it too thin. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Tristan
 
Thanks for the info gentlemen (ladies?).

Led Boots - I think I'm gonna give that slanted plunge line a shot. If it looks terrible I'm holding you accountable since it clearly was your idea. I have plans of selling this knife for $900.99 ($925.98 with the penguin and panda pelt sheath). So if it doesn't work out, I'll contact you about payment. I only accept 2nd party out of state bad checks. Paypal keeps closing my acct.

Triple - I'm still a super noob so don't take this as gospel. When I started the plunge, I just went super slow with super controlled pressure. knowing that I could touch it up with paper, round file as I went if I wasn't happy. I followed a lot of Gough customs videos. When I cut the plunge, I would rock the file back a little bit, so I was cutting mainly with the edge, (almost using it like a round file since I cleaned up and rounded the edges of my bastard file.) When it came to the tip, also slow, and controlled pressure. I would always make sure that I was just cutting the material away from the tip with just the outter most edge of the file. Keeping probably 3/4's of the file width still in contact with the rest of the grind/bevel. I did find that this left my tip thicker (hehe) than the rest of my grind. So I would just focus more time, careful and slow at the tip (hehe) till it was even with the rest of the blade. Same though process for draw filing to flatten it out.

If none of that made sense I can post a pic or two to explain.

Zack.
 
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