Does anyone do a lockback better?

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Jun 6, 2014
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I really like how Spyderco's mid lockback design allow the knife to easily be opened and closed one handed, usually having a ricasso or choil to aid in doing this safely. I dislike thumb studs that can snag on things and imo just add unnecessary bulk to a knife. The only lockback knife that has even come close to my Endura 4 or Native 5 was a Chinese Benchmade with H&K branding called a "Pika II," which kinda seemed like a blatant copy of a Delica/Endura. I did like that knife but it was it a short amount of time before the lock started to develop audible up and down blade play, the gimping was just no good, the pocket clip ripped the screws threads right off from a little snag, and aftermarket parts were just not available for what was basically in the end a "throwaway" knife. There's awful riveted Buck lockbacks that have the release at the far end of the knife and usually a thumbstud or ugly oval hole, basically not even comparable. Then Kershaw released one called the "cargo" that looks like a Spyderco copy, but has thumbstuds in a weird spot and no ricasso which could be bad if you mess up when closing it one handed. Also Chinese made if like previous Chinese made Kershaw's I've used it's probably not built to last like the Japanese or American Spydercos I mentioned. So I guess I am wondering is there anyone else out there that makes a good lockback that fits what I look for? If not I'm ok just buying more Spydercos but curious minds want to know!
 
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I had a spyderco lockback and the lock broke essentially making it a slip joint. That was a long time ago and I've brought a few more sypderco knives since including more lockbacks with no issue but I use them carefully just in case.
 
Got a Native 5 recently, my first Spyderco back lock. I love the overall design of the knife and the back lock is nice for what it is. Don't have a whole bunch of experience with owning back locks other than an older Buck 110 clone I got when I was younger. I'll say they're dead simple to use and reliable if a little "boring" which I say with utmost respect. I still prefer my compression locks, but I'd have no qualms handing over the Native 5 with back lock to somebody and be confident they'd either know how or easily be able to figure out how to use it compared to a compression lock.
 
No disrespect to Sal or Spyderco, but IMO Cold Steel's Tri-AD is the best back lock. However, most have thumb studs.
How did I forget about cold steel? I bought a pink little micro recon for my ex-wife years ago and was quite impressed with the solid lockup. It was one of the first knifes without metal liners I handled and helped me conclude they aren't necessary unless you need a really heavy duty knife intended to be abused. The thumb studs and tension of lock didn't really allow for quick opening or even one hand opening on a knife that small but like others have said lock backs are a great "idiot proof" design, definitely safe enough for said person I bought it for!
 
Spyderco lockback can be tuned very smooth, which is great. However, most that I have tried have a bit up and down blade play if you press the tip of the blade on a surface. Is it a safety issue? Absolutely not. Cold Steel tri ad lock does not have this issue, though the handle tends to be thicker for whatever reason.
 
Something else I've thought of is when gripping a Spyderco by the choil and with thumb on thumb ramp it's got to take a lot of pressure off the lock already, since you're basically holding the knife by the blade, am I right on this assumption? Because to me this seems like good design.
 
Cold Steel Tri-ad lock is simply the best designed / improved back lock in existence . :cool: :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Extremely rugged and strong with a rock solid lock up that requires little or no adjustments /maintenance long term .

The lock is self-adjusting as it wears .
 
I really like how Spyderco's mid lockback design allow the knife to easily be opened and closed one handed, usually having a ricasso or choil to aid in doing this safely. I dislike thumb studs that can snag on things and imo just add unnecessary bulk to a knife.

OP: Cold steel fan-boys laugh about my comment above (post #12). Fine - I'd like to know if they have ever used Tatanka or Chinook 4; also the missed the fact that thumbstuds apear to be a no-go for you (much like for me), so the Tri-Ad lock is not an option .... judge by yourself, even Andrew shows that the Tatanka and Voyager locks are close wrt robustness, the first catastrophically fails at 366 pds weight hang test, the other 451 pds (19% more weight) (catastrophic failure meaning blade breaking). Not that Andrew is biased or anything ....


I suggest that both are _very_ strong in practical use, good enough for daily chores, certainly much stronger than your Endura.

Understandable that not everybody wants a Tatanka, it's un-wieldy and hard to get these days, but if you like the size of the Endura, try the Chinook 4. Besides lock strenght, what I like about it is that the power lock takes blade pressure away from the lock bar, so it can very easily be flicked open or dropped shut, the lock feel is independent of pivot adjustment, i.e., no blade play if adjusted right. If you like Spyderco opening holes and the trailing point shape, it should be top of your list.

Roland.
 
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I wish there were standardized tests, showing the strength of lockback mechanisms under various conditions, such as shock, as well as simple tension. But there are not.

A simple test of a locking mechanism is to open the blade to fully locked, and to hit the back of the blade on a wooden surface. The hit does not have to be too hard, and the handle needs to be held such that if the lock fails, you don't loose fingers! I hold the side of the handles with just a thumb and forefinger, and I don't hit wood as hard as I can. Just a good bump.

this knife fails on every strike. It is a frame lock, the locking mechanism is ill fitted, the lock fails, the blade swings around, and that is a failure in my opinion.


3VIOUi1.jpg


Something I do like about lock backs is the spring loaded bar presses on the root of the closed blade, adding resistance to accidental opening. This knife is typical

yiVcRQ0.jpg


There are many individuals, myself included, who due to clothing, or something else, had a folding knife open in the pocket, or between the belt. This early Voyager, the thumb stud is flush on "the pants side" This is good as it makes it less likely that the remaining stud will snag on clothing, as the knife is pulled out.


X6xaUbS.jpg
 
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I wish there were standardized tests, showing the strength of lockback mechanisms under various conditions, such as shock, as well as simple tension. But there are not.

A simple test of a locking mechanism is to open the blade to fully locked, and to hit the back of the blade on a wooden surface. The hit does not have to be too hard, and the handle needs to be held such that if the lock fails, you don't loose fingers! I hold the side of the handles with just a thumb and forefinger, and I don't hit wood as hard as I can. Just a good bump.

this knife fails on every strike. It is a frame lock, the locking mechanism is ill fitted, the lock fails, the blade swings around, and that is a failure in my opinion.


3VIOUi1.jpg
That's not a framelock. With a framelock, your grip should be keeping the lock from disengaging.
 
I know this is not a lock back, but take a look at the Demko shark lock. It is an interesting lock especially if you like to fidget and open and close a knife often. Do a search and check out some videos on the shark lock.
 
is not a lock back, but take a look at the Demko shark lock.
That's pretty neat

the thumb stud is flush on "the pants side"
I've seen some reversible thumb studs designed to be ambidextrous and not snag as easy. I still think a nice big spydie hole is easier to find in a hurry, but a flipper imo is one of the best for speed of deployment
try the Chinook 4
Very interesting design, are there any others with this lock or just these two?
 
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