Does anyone do a lockback better?

I wish there were standardized tests, showing the strength of lockback mechanisms under various conditions, such as shock, as well as simple tension. But there are not.
Did you see the video in post #16 by ferider ferider ?

There’s a whole series of them doing exactly what you’re talking about with a variety of folders.

Granted they are performed by an interested party, but I haven’t heard of any other manufacturers either a) complaining about the tests or b) running their own tests openly.

So, while it’s reasonable to be skeptical about them, they do offer some of the information you’re looking for.

It would be awesome if there was an independent tester that did this - I’d contribute to their fund for sure.

(Count me as another TriAd Seagull btw - my Chinook 2 lockback was good for a few years then got a bit wobbly. Hasn’t happened with my CS folders.)
 
Get an American Lawman.
Oh, I've considered that over the years but the blade is on the small size and I don't like the massive finger groove and equally massive finger choil, plus the huge finger guard. Pivot area is just all kinds of off puttingly constrained, when for me, spyderco gets it right on so many knives.
 
(Count me as another TriAd Seagull btw - my Chinook 2 lockback was good for a few years then got a bit wobbly. Hasn’t happened with my CS folders.)

Of the Chinooks, only the 4 has the power lock. But generally I agree with you, regarding independent testing being desirable.

Then again, I'm a big guy, and my weight would not be able to break either Tatanka or Voyager - even if I put my complete weight on it.
 
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I really like how Spyderco's mid lockback design allow the knife to easily be opened and closed one handed, usually having a ricasso or choil to aid in doing this safely. I dislike thumb studs that can snag on things and imo just add unnecessary bulk to a knife. The only lockback knife that has even come close to my Endura 4 or Native 5 was a Chinese Benchmade with H&K branding called a "Pika II," which kinda seemed like a blatant copy of a Delica/Endura. I did like that knife but it was it a short amount of time before the lock started to develop audible up and down blade play, the gimping was just no good, the pocket clip ripped the screws threads right off from a little snag, and aftermarket parts were just not available for what was basically in the end a "throwaway" knife. There's awful riveted Buck lockbacks that have the release at the far end of the knife and usually a thumbstud or ugly oval hole, basically not even comparable. Then Kershaw released one called the "cargo" that looks like a Spyderco copy, but has thumbstuds in a weird spot and no ricasso which could be bad if you mess up when closing it one handed. Also Chinese made if like previous Chinese made Kershaw's I've used it's probably not built to last like the Japanese or American Spydercos I mentioned. So I guess I am wondering is there anyone else out there that makes a good lockback that fits what I look for? If not I'm ok just buying more Spydercos but curious minds want to know!
My AD-10 (Cold Steel, not Demko) works like that too, it's really nice. I would look at Kizer's Slicer
 
I love my CS AD-10 to pieces, but that bad baby has sliced my index finger at the first knuckle on multiple occasions. One hand closing just not an option for me with that knife.
 
I love my CS AD-10 to pieces, but that bad baby has sliced my index finger at the first knuckle on multiple occasions. One hand closing just not an option for me with that knife.
Hate to say the obvious but you are doing it wrong. I have an AD10 smooth as butter and close with ease and safety.
 
More scary to some sensitive souls
This is why I think robust folding knives do have a place. A fixed blade isn't always an option especially around sheeple and a lot of sheaths that come with knives are awful I'd probably want to learn to design my own out of kydex with a clip where a folder would normally sit.
 
I love my CS AD-10 to pieces, but that bad baby has sliced my index finger at the first knuckle on multiple occasions. One hand closing just not an option for me with that knife.
Most Cold Steel have an unsharpened space on the blade , close to the pivot . So , if you keep a forward grip when closing , the blade will safely stop there .

Pic shows an example of the unsharpened area but not how you would normally close :
 
Mine would do this when cutting near the tip of the blade.

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You can see they resolved the issue. It is a great design for sure but a little difficult to fit the lock back in I guess. I'm glad they fixed it, though I moved on from the model. My most carried knives are my Pacific Salts (OG & LC200N) and my Enduras, so I love a good Spyderco lock back.

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