Does anyone do a lockback better?

[helobite]

That's not a framelock. With a framelock, your grip should be keeping the lock from disengaging.

If it is not a framelock, then what do you call it?

The metal frame of the knife is inside a G10 grip and the metal frame is what is supposed to keep the blade locked. I tested a number of this type of framelock yesterday, and a lot of them failed on the tap test.

 

[sadmin]

Its a liner lock. Also, somewhat relevant:

 

[craytab]

If it is not a framelock, then what do you call it?

The metal frame of the knife is inside a G10 grip and the metal frame is what is supposed to keep the blade locked. I tested a number of this type of framelock yesterday, and a lot of them failed on the tap test.

It is obviously a liner lock. I had one that didn't fail but some sure did. ZT missed the boat on that great design of a knife. Flipping wasn't great and there was QC/fit issues. Long discontinued. Too bad since it was one of the last "overbuilt like a tank" ZTs.

 

[craytab]

No disrespect to Sal or Spyderco, but IMO Cold Steel's Tri-AD is the best back lock. However, most have thumb studs.

Cold Steel Tri-ad lock is simply the best designed / improved back lock in existence .

Extremely rugged and strong with a rock solid lock up that requires little or no adjustments /maintenance long term .

The lock is self-adjusting as it wears .

I wouldn't consider the tri-ad lock a true lock back, like what I think the OP intended. I also think the pivot area on most TL knives is far too big, necessitated by design, which makes most TL knives not in the same league with the cutting instruments Spyderco puts out. Much more of a big bruiser type knife than a fine cutting instrument. It's been said before but I'll say it again, If I want the strength the TL provides, I'll use a fixed blade. For actually cutting with folder, the TL is too cumbersome for me compared to a true back lock like what spyderco does.

So to answer the OP, no, nobody else does it as well as Spyderco*

*Except that first run of Sirens, that was a fail.

 

[gooeytek]

If it is not a framelock, then what do you call it?

The metal frame of the knife is inside a G10 grip and the metal frame is what is supposed to keep the blade locked. I tested a number of this type of framelock yesterday, and a lot of them failed on the tap test.

Framelock:

Grip pressure should keep the lock engaged. You don't have that feature with a linerlock.

 

[jux t]

I wouldn't consider the tri-ad lock a true lock back, like what I think the OP intended. I also think the pivot area on most TL knives is far too big, necessitated by design,

I don’t think a large pivot area is necessitated by design, unless you think the Broken Skull/Range Boss design to have large pivot areas.

 

[Dergyll]

I find almost all of my triad locks hard to disengage one handed. I also can't do the Eric Glesser drop (I don't know the technical term, so that's what I'm going with) where you drop the unsharpened tang on your finger then close it.

Edit: here is Eric demonstrating the technique at 11:55

Granted there are a few models where you can't do this with, but most spyderco lockbacks I can easily close one handed, either with the hole fingering (heh) or Glesser Tang Drop.

Triad lock super strong? Sure. Nice. So are fixed blades.

 

[jux t]

I find almost all of my triad locks hard to disengage one handed. I also can't do the Eric Glesser drop (I don't know the technical term, so that's what I'm going with) where you drop the unsharpened tang on your finger then close it.

Edit: here is Eric demonstrating the technique at 11:55

Granted there are a few models where you can't do this with, but most spyderco lockbacks I can easily close one handed, either with the hole fingering (heh) or Glesser Tang Drop.

Triad lock super strong? Sure. Nice. So are fixed blades.

I’ve been able to tune my tri-ad locks to freely drop the unsharpened tang on my index finger, to close quickly one handed. Maybe yours had to be broken in, oiled, or have the pivot adjusted.

 

[brancron]

As with Dergyll , I find Spyderco’s lockbacks to be super easy to close one-handed, but Cold Steel’s triad locks not so. And since no lockback, not even the most delicate little one, has ever come anywhere close to failing for me, the triad lock’s added sturdiness is completely useless.

It would be the equivalent of adding a padlock to the pivot to avoid it being turned with my permission. Thanks, but no thanks!

 

[David Mary]

OP: Cold steel fan-boys laugh about my comment above (post #12). Fine - I'd like to know if they have ever used Tatanka or Chinook 4; also the missed the fact that thumbstuds apear to be a no-go for you (much like for me), so the Tri-Ad lock is not an option .... judge by yourself, even Andrew shows that the Tatanka and Voyager locks are close wrt robustness, the first catastrophically fails at 366 pds weight hang test, the other 451 pds (19% more weight) (catastrophic failure meaning blade breaking). Not that Andrew is biased or anything ....

I suggest that both are _very_ strong in practical use, good enough for daily chores, certainly much stronger than your Endura.

Understandable that not everybody wants a Tatanka, it's un-wieldy and hard to get these days, but if you like the size of the Endura, try the Chinook 4. Besides lock strenght, what I like about it is that the power lock takes blade pressure away from the lock bar, so it can very easily be flicked open or dropped shut, the lock feel is independent of pivot adjustment, i.e., no blade play if adjusted right. If you like Spyderco opening holes and the trailing point shape, it should be top of your list.

Roland.

I've always wanted to try a Tatanka. I'd of course regrind it to full height, and take a bunch of weight out of the handle. But it's disco'd so I'll probably never get the chance.

 

[jlauffer]

I find almost all of my triad locks hard to disengage one handed. I also can't do the Eric Glesser drop (I don't know the technical term, so that's what I'm going with) where you drop the unsharpened tang on your finger then close it.

Granted there are a few models where you can't do this with, but most spyderco lockbacks I can easily close one handed, either with the hole fingering (heh) or Glesser Tang Drop.

Triad lock super strong? Sure. Nice. So are fixed blades.

Have 4 CS in my weekly rotation (mini Recon, Code 4, Silver Eye, and Air Lite), and can do the blade drop on all of them.

 

[David Mary]

I find almost all of my triad locks hard to disengage one handed.

Disassemble, bend lock spring with two pairs of pliers, reassemble, test, repeat until perfect.

You don't need much.

 

[Chuck_Nunface]

Spyderco's lockback is just fine, but I need to give the nod to Cold Steel.

 

[Dergyll]

Disassemble, bend lock spring with two pairs of pliers, reassemble, test, repeat until perfect.

You don't need much.

David Mary
Please expect a roughly 3lb package from me...thanx much

Edit: sorry I think my wording could use improvement there. The CS knives drop no problem, but I put alot more force on the lockbar with my thumb to get the lock to disengage. Also, the unsharpened portion on most spydercos are larger, facilitating safer one-hand close.

Maybe I'm wimpy, but I just find spydercos safer to close especially without thought.

 

[craytab]

I don’t think a large pivot area is necessitated by design, unless you think the Broken Skull/Range Boss design to have large pivot areas.

True, I thought about those as an exception. If they don't need that huge pivot area for the lock, then I guess they just do it for robustness? I've had 3 Recon 1 spear points. Love the idea of that knife. In practice though, it was too big and your hand was so far away from the cutting edge it was hard for me to actually carry and use them compared to other knives with similar blade length.

 

[David Mary]

I've had 3 Recon 1 spear points. Love the idea of that knife. In practice though, it was too big and your hand was so far away from the cutting edge it was hard for me to actually carry and use them compared to other knives with similar blade length.

D Dave_dutchman and I have had this very same conversation. This is the reason we both don't own Recon 1s any more.

 

[craytab]

Disassemble, bend lock spring with two pairs of pliers, reassemble, test, repeat until perfect.

You don't need much.

I had to do that on my 1st gen Recon 1 (AUS8) but the next two (XHP & S35VN) did not need this to effectively close. It was a common problem on the first round of TL folders.

 

[craytab]

D Dave_dutchman and I have had this very same conversation. This is the reason we both don't own Recon 1s any more.

I really, really tried and wanted it to work for me but just couldn't.

 

[jux t]

I really, really tried and wanted it to work for me but just couldn't.

Different strokes for different folks, I’ve used one of my recon 1’s almost daily for 4 years, and I have 18 of the regular sized ones of all different variations. Fits me very well, and the hollow ground ones cut like a laser. If it’s really wet out I carry a Pacific or a fixed blade though.

 

[Chuck_Nunface]

True, I thought about those as an exception. If they don't need that huge pivot area for the lock, then I guess they just do it for robustness? I've had 3 Recon 1 spear points. Love the idea of that knife. In practice though, it was too big and your hand was so far away from the cutting edge it was hard for me to actually carry and use them compared to other knives with similar blade length.

Get an American Lawman.