Most "modern" apple trees are branch cuttings grafted onto specific root stock depending on the desired size of the tree. Many of the more fragile varieties are grafted onto crab-apple root stock since the crabs are very vigorous rooters and will keep the main tree healthier.
That said, you can take cuttings from apple branches and have them root. It takes time, work and more than a fair amount of luck for the amateur to get good results, I'd plan on no more than a 25% success rate your first few tries.
If you're looking for apple trees as a deer attractant, find an old orchard or farmstead with a couple of ancient apple trees growing. Ask the owner for permission to take some branch cuttings in the spring just after the leaves come out. Bring a bucket of water and cut the twigs about 4"-6" long on the NEW green growth and with 4-8 leaves. Don't fall to the temptation that bigger is better. A short start will actually grow more quickly than a longer start since there's less "tree" to support and the energy can go into roots. When you get home, use a razor knife to slice the ends of the stems just below a bud and dip in a root initiation hormone and set in vermiculite. Keep the cuttings moist and warm and watch carefully for a few weeks. After a month or so, you should see new growth on some of the cuttings, these will be the ones that have set root! Transplant to soil and indirect sunlight to encourage more growth. Take the remainder of the summer to get the seedlings acclimated to direct sunlight and before autumn, you can put them out in a nursery garden for the remainder of the season. Mulch well with leaves for the winter and you should have good returns the next year.
Keep the young trees in the nursery garden until you are ready to move them to the final site. Use a spade around the base of the trees to keep the root ball local and they'll be easier to transplant when you're ready.
Search apple tree propagation on the internet for more ideas.
J-