Does anything beat the Cold Steel Trail Master ?

I'm always surprised that people are so accepting of rubber handles. Be it fallkniven, cold steel, or the skrama... I've seen several start to come apart.
 
An exposed tang may or may not transfer vibration just like an enclosed tang may or may not. Remember, there isn't much rubber between the TM tang and the hand. Holding technique, chopping technique, Blade design, thickness etc, all go into absorbing shock or not. One thing that is for sure, is that an eposed full tang is much stronger and if the handle material breaks, it can be wrapped with anything and still function. Enclosed tangs are almost always to small to makeshift a wrap on them. Another issue with enclosed tangs is if they radius the transition or not.


Here is a properly radiused transition
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Then in this picture you have the TM on the right that did not have a transition compared to the Basic 9 on the left, which did. Eventually, the TM will fail at that transition if you baton with it a lot.
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Here is my old TM

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Do you happen to know which edition of the Trail Master is shown in your second pic? I seem to recall that earlier models had a pretty stark transition to the tang and were known to break off at that point (not all of them, obviously, but enough to notice the issue) but the transition was more broadly radiused in later releases. Judging by the style of the choil/ricasso, I think it is clear that the TM in the picture is not one of the first edition knives, but I wonder when the broader radius was added (if it was truly added at all).
 
Do you happen to know which edition of the Trail Master is shown in your second pic? I seem to recall that earlier models had a pretty stark transition to the tang and were known to break off at that point (not all of them, obviously, but enough to notice the issue) but the transition was more broadly radiused in later releases. Judging by the style of the choil/ricasso, I think it is clear that the TM in the picture is not one of the first edition knives, but I wonder when the broader radius was added (if it was truly added at all).
I seem to remember the earlier carbon v ones had a 90 transition without being radiused much. I thought the Japanese and Taiwan made ones had improved on that...but my memory isn't good and it was long time ago when I paid attention to that issue.
 
Do you happen to know which edition of the Trail Master is shown in your second pic? I seem to recall that earlier models had a pretty stark transition to the tang and were known to break off at that point (not all of them, obviously, but enough to notice the issue) but the transition was more broadly radiused in later releases. Judging by the style of the choil/ricasso, I think it is clear that the TM in the picture is not one of the first edition knives, but I wonder when the broader radius was added (if it was truly added at all).

That one was probably purchased in 1997-98 by Turber. So my guess is before that time. Funny thing is that the japanese made versions had the radiused transition. I am sure that
 
I seem to remember the earlier carbon v ones had a 90 transition without being radiused much. I thought the Japanese and Taiwan made ones had improved on that...but my memory isn't good and it was long time ago when I paid attention to that issue.

That one was probably purchased in 1997-98 by Turber. So my guess is before that time. Funny thing is that the japanese made versions had the radiused transition. I am sure that

Here's a pic taken from JoeX's destruction of a 3V Trail Master. It looks like the transition has a nice, round radius which should be sufficient. I hope my O1 TM has a similar transition.

 
Here's a pic taken from JoeX's destruction of a 3V Trail Master. It looks like the transition has a nice, round radius which should be sufficient. I hope my O1 TM has a similar transition.

I think that it most likely does.

Be it stamped from a sheet or cut with machine, the round corner are usually easier to make in these cases. The structural integrity is a plus.

Look at the width of the tang, it is more than half of the knife width, which should be able to hold up well.
 
On one of your sale posts I saw you say you were selling all your knives to pursue a different hobby.

Please tell me it’s not stand-up.
I’m not selling all of them, but I’d like to start collecting Napoleon era sabres. At this point I’d rather have a 1796 light Calvary Sabre than 20 modern Bowies
 
I've had cold steel trail masters in the past.. But for some reason, I got tired of the weight and the crappy kraton handle.. I went with a different line of bowie knife which are all custom made and tweaked to my specs.. They have handled the work and geographical local where I live and work better than the TMmodel-14LG.jpgIMG_0208.jpgthumbnail (1) special ops bowie.jpgthumbnail (1) bulldog.jpg
 
I have not experienced this as yet , and I have some from the early '80's .

I have read that some solvents / insecticides can degrade Kraton . IDK .
DEET is common in bug repellents and there were many anecdotal accounts in the past of it attacking Kraton handles. Hopefully the material grade was changed by CS at some point in response.
 
The 3V TM is retailing for ~$350.
Shop around right now and easy to find it for $250 on sale . :cool: Not from a sponsor so don't ask !

Anyway , Most of my CS knives have been purchased at deep discounts .

Not every brand allows this .

I don't like to compare knives outside their cheapest price point . Not really fair IMO .

Also customs / semi-custom vs mass produced . Different ballgame entirely , not comparable .
 
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