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An exposed tang may or may not transfer vibration just like an enclosed tang may or may not. Remember, there isn't much rubber between the TM tang and the hand. Holding technique, chopping technique, Blade design, thickness etc, all go into absorbing shock or not. One thing that is for sure, is that an eposed full tang is much stronger and if the handle material breaks, it can be wrapped with anything and still function. Enclosed tangs are almost always to small to makeshift a wrap on them. Another issue with enclosed tangs is if they radius the transition or not.
Here is a properly radiused transition
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Then in this picture you have the TM on the right that did not have a transition compared to the Basic 9 on the left, which did. Eventually, the TM will fail at that transition if you baton with it a lot.
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Here is my old TM
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I seem to remember the earlier carbon v ones had a 90 transition without being radiused much. I thought the Japanese and Taiwan made ones had improved on that...but my memory isn't good and it was long time ago when I paid attention to that issue.Do you happen to know which edition of the Trail Master is shown in your second pic? I seem to recall that earlier models had a pretty stark transition to the tang and were known to break off at that point (not all of them, obviously, but enough to notice the issue) but the transition was more broadly radiused in later releases. Judging by the style of the choil/ricasso, I think it is clear that the TM in the picture is not one of the first edition knives, but I wonder when the broader radius was added (if it was truly added at all).
Do you happen to know which edition of the Trail Master is shown in your second pic? I seem to recall that earlier models had a pretty stark transition to the tang and were known to break off at that point (not all of them, obviously, but enough to notice the issue) but the transition was more broadly radiused in later releases. Judging by the style of the choil/ricasso, I think it is clear that the TM in the picture is not one of the first edition knives, but I wonder when the broader radius was added (if it was truly added at all).
I seem to remember the earlier carbon v ones had a 90 transition without being radiused much. I thought the Japanese and Taiwan made ones had improved on that...but my memory isn't good and it was long time ago when I paid attention to that issue.
That one was probably purchased in 1997-98 by Turber. So my guess is before that time. Funny thing is that the japanese made versions had the radiused transition. I am sure that
I think that it most likely does.Here's a pic taken from JoeX's destruction of a 3V Trail Master. It looks like the transition has a nice, round radius which should be sufficient. I hope my O1 TM has a similar transition.
I was reading an old thread about the handle and tang of the Trailmaster and someone wanted to see pictures of the radiusing at the location where the blade necks down to the smaller tang. Since no one presented one, I thought I'd post what I found in this sticky.
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This is from the JoeX video for the 3V Trailmaster: (around 36-37 minutes in)
It's interesting that the knife broke in several places but not the one's people usually worry about.
The radius apparently worked fine, and the spot welds for the crossguard broke free but did not cause any...
I have not experienced this as yet , and I have some from the early '80's .It degrades over time, gets tacky or gooey, gets loose, comes off with age and use, then you wind up with a bare tang needing replacement.
I’d like to crush that up and snort itI like the TM. It’s a great knife, no complaints. But if I were choosing, I’d pick this one every time
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On one of your sale posts I saw you say you were selling all your knives to pursue a different hobby.I’d like to crush that up and snort it
I’m not selling all of them, but I’d like to start collecting Napoleon era sabres. At this point I’d rather have a 1796 light Calvary Sabre than 20 modern BowiesOn one of your sale posts I saw you say you were selling all your knives to pursue a different hobby.
Please tell me it’s not stand-up.
Hey, a fellow Camp 10 owner! The 10 and 14 are great. I call ‘em the budget Esees lol.Becker BK-9
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ESEE Junglas
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Kershaw Outcast or Camp 10
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DEET is common in bug repellents and there were many anecdotal accounts in the past of it attacking Kraton handles. Hopefully the material grade was changed by CS at some point in response.I have not experienced this as yet , and I have some from the early '80's .
I have read that some solvents / insecticides can degrade Kraton . IDK .
Yes . I've read of DEET being a problem . I've never exposed my CS Kraton handles to DEET or harsh solvents . So IDK .DEET is common in bug repellents and there were many anecdotal accounts in the past of it attacking Kraton handles. Hopefully the material grade was changed by CS at some point in response.
Shop around right now and easy to find it for $250 on sale .The 3V TM is retailing for ~$350.
Yeah, keep your G-Shocks away from bug repellents too. Apparently it damages the resin.DEET is common in bug repellents and there were many anecdotal accounts in the past of it attacking Kraton handles. Hopefully the material grade was changed by CS at some point in response.