Does Buck have a very heavy duty folder with a full size blade, built like a tank?

MTHall720

MTHall720

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Sep 21, 2010
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I have no clue so am just asking. What I am looking for is a real tank of a folder, with a pocket clip. Does Buck have their equivalent of a ZT 0200, Hogue EX01, or something along those lines?
 
I have no idea what a ZT 0200 or a Hougue EX01 is, but about the tankiest Buck I can think of is the CSAR-T. It is a beast. Here's one link to a thread about them, but there are many more. Just do a search for it here and you will find all you want to know about them. If it's too much, the Folding Alpha Hunter is more of a civilian looking knife and is built on almost the same frame.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/800678-Buck-CSAR-T?highlight=CSAR
 
MTHall720 said:
I have no clue so am just asking. What I am looking for is a real tank of a folder, with a pocket clip. Does Buck have their equivalent of a ZT 0200, Hogue EX01, or something along those lines?
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As already mentioned...the CSAR-T is your best bet.
 
Alpha Hunter and CSAR-T

AlphaandCSAR-T.jpg


2011 CSAR-T lineup

csars.jpg
 
If you want a heavy duty buck folder built like a tank,look at getting one of the buck/strider model 880 tactical folders,all you'll ever need in a heavy duty folder.
 
I know the knife I'm about to recommend is not one of the current tacti-cool plastic wonders. But, it is built like a tank and has lived the test of time. You can't go wrong with the Buck 110, no pocket clip though (you can have one added if need be).
jb4570
 
The 110 is a great knife,but its not built like a tank,and won't stand up to anything the 880 strider is capable of,such as piercing through a car hood over and over,prying heavy things apart,digging/chopping,etc.The 110 won't stand up to any of that,its meant for cutting things,the strider is meant for cutting and everything else you shouldn't do with a knife.LOL
 
RAZORBLADES said:
The 110 is a great knife,but its not built like a tank,and won't stand up to anything the 880 strider is capable of,such as piercing through a car hood over and over,prying heavy things apart,digging/chopping,etc.The 110 won't stand up to any of that,its meant for cutting things,the strider is meant for cutting and everything else you shouldn't do with a knife.LOL
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A knife is ment to cut things. If you want to "piercing through a car hood over and over,prying heavy things apart,digging/chopping,etc" there are much better desinged tools for that and a knife is not the tool....unless of course you are a fool. No offence ment just MHO.
jb4570
 
MTHall720 said:
Are these hard to find now?
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I didn't mention them because they are discontinued and can't be as easily found as the CSAR-T. I assumed that you were looking for something in current production. The Striders can be found on auction sites but you need to beware. There are many fakes out there and the real ones are usually pretty expensive (cheapest I could find is $230). The CSAR-T isn't a "cheap" piece, but brand new is much less (under $110) than most Striders found for sale.
 
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jb4570 said:
I know the knife I'm about to recommend is not one of the current tacti-cool plastic wonders. But, it is built like a tank and has lived the test of time. You can't go wrong with the Buck 110, no pocket clip though (you can have one added if need be).
jb4570
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You got that right jb.+1:thumbup:
 
Correction, the CSAR-T is NOT "built like a tank".


Tanks are now constructed to meet CSAR-T standards. :)
 
OK, here are a couple of gratuitous shots of my 880SP. Just as an FYI, they are available on 'the Bay'.

P1070058.jpg

P1070063.jpg

P1070057.jpg
 
I'd say if you want a hard core " Hard use" folder the CSAR-t would fit the bill the Paul Bos heat treated ATS-34 is amazing also there are the older Buck/Strider collabarations but they are getting kind of sparse and very desirable among some collectors.
 
I have a CSAR-T Avid, and it is a sturdy work knife. That said, you still couldn't go wrong with a 110 or a 419 Kalinga.
 
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jb4570 said:
A knife is ment to cut things. If you want to "piercing through a car hood over and over,prying heavy things apart,digging/chopping,etc" there are much better desinged tools for that and a knife is not the tool....unless of course you are a fool. No offence ment just MHO.
jb4570
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Oh no...very humble and no possibility of offense by calling someone a fool.
I'm very sorry, but the "knives are meant to cut" one-liner is a simple argument that people like to fall back on but under the barest scrutiny is downright goofy, because it puts forth the notion that everything, from tiny keychain Swiss Army Knife to bowie with a 1/4" thick blade has exactly the same range of appropriate tasks, namely opening letters and cutting carrots. If that was the case, then the 110 sucks, because a full flat-ground pairing knife will spank it. Thankfully, it's not the case, and the 110 doesn't suck.

Knives ARE meant to cut, but cutting can mean splitting atoms and it can mean splitting a tree stump. I have knives that will slice circles around a Buck 110 (and I also have something like half a dozen different 110s), and knives that will out-chop a GB Wildlife hatchet. And speaking of hatchets/axes, they make THOSE for a whole range of tasks too, a carving axe is not a felling axe is not a fireman's axe, and assertions that people are "fools" for wanting/needing one versus the other would be, in themselves, foolish. "Axes aren't MADE for precisely carving wood!" Yes they are. "Axes aren't MADE for breaking glass and cutting people out of cars!" Yes they are. I'll warrant, choosing a folder for serious armor penetration duty is rather silly, but there are indeed tasks involving separating one material from another than can be a little hard on a thin shouldered, fine pointed knife like the folding hunter.

Now, I agree with you that the Buck 110 is a great knife--classic good looks, solidly constructed, and a capable overall utility cutting tool. But it's not a "tank" in its blade geometry the way that the OP meant--which I'm pretty sure you knew--nor does it have a pocket clip--which I KNOW you knew--nor is it in any way shape or form in line with the ZT 0200 or Hogue EX01--which I'm pretty sure you knew--so other than as an opportunity to put down knives that you don't like (and then put down the people who like them with your second post), I'm somewhat stumped as to what your reason could have been for chiming in with the suggestion. If you don't care for my tone, I'm sorry, but I suppose I became what I beheld, to borrow the phrase.

Anyway, back to the OP's question: the CSAR is not only more readily available than the older Buck/Striders, but in my opinion is also superior in almost every respect. That's not saying that the old ones were poor, but just that the CSAR-T is a more refined version of the same idea. Now, following my disagreement with JB above, I'll go ahead and point out that while this is a VERY heavy duty folder, it still is "broken" in the middle so don't try and treat it like a heavy duty fixed blade. You do have a great deal of rigidity in your blade and point, however, so you don't need to worry about leaning on it if you have something that will respond better to pushing through than slicing. THE most strongly performing heavy-duty folder I've ever tried (and is now my EDC) is the Lionsteel SR-1, and it's that wonderful combination of strength and cutting performance that dreams are made of. It's an expensive brute, though, and honestly...you could have a CSAR-T for tough stuff and a Buck slipjoint (or SAK) for fine tasks and exceed the SR-1's capabilities, and have a couple hundred dollars left over besides.
 
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The above picture of the C-Sar Brochure describes the C-Sar as having 154CM blade steel and then whetrock mentions ATS-34. What is the current available steel on the C-Sar? I also see one model with 420 steel. Maybe there is also one with S30 ?
 
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