Does Buck have a very heavy duty folder with a full size blade, built like a tank?

I've seen both 154CM and ATS-34 advertised and I don't remember what the blade said on the one I gave to my brother in law. Properly heat treated (and from Buck, it will be) you wouldn't be able to tell a difference. Honestly, if your purpose is toughness (which I kind of think IS the purpose that most people associate with this knife) then 420HC's superior ductility and finer grain structure will handle more rough usage than S30V will, even if that choice became available. S30V's greater abrasion resistance will win-out with a great deal of cutting on abrasive media (cardboard) but if all you're doing is opening boxes then a thinner blade profile would suit better anyway.
 
Mine is from last year but has a 2009 date stamp on it.

CSAR-Ttang.jpg
 
I believe the CSAR-t knives started out with ATS-34, but current models may have the 154CM as Buck seems to have phased out ATS-34. The properties are very close to one another, and I doubt you could tell the difference, especially in the CSAR ;)
The Buck/Striders are getting hard to find, but they are out there yet. The Buck Bravo may be one to consider also. It is built tough, and has a pocketclip already also.

Heres a few pics to compare! ;)
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I must be a fool then ,because i used my 880 to punch a hole into a old car hood,to feed a rope through it and then used that to edge myself out into the mudflats at low tide to get a old timer who was duck hunting had his skiff drift when his anchor let go,Sorry i didn't have all those other tools with me at the time,i did have my strider with me and it worked,so i guess i won't complain ,certainly never heard any complaints from the ol' fella.LOL
 
I must be a fool then ,because i used my 880 to punch a hole into a old car hood,to feed a rope through it and then used that to edge myself out into the mudflats at low tide to get a old timer who was duck hunting had his skiff drift when his anchor let go,Sorry i didn't have all those other tools with me at the time,i did have my strider with me and it worked,so i guess i won't complain ,certainly never heard any complaints from the ol' fella.LOL

Good for you RB!
jb4570
 
Had to check, my CSAR-T is ATS-34 also.

Honestly, it wouldn't take a whole lot for me to bypass a fixed blade altogether in my BOB for the CSAR-T.

Thing is a freakin' monster.
 
I've got an 880T and like it. It really is more of a tank than a slicer though. I'd really have to thin the blade down to make it into something it's not meant to be. Keeping it just the way it is it will last ages provided I don't do something stupid. The extra thick Titanium liners may eventually wear down and cause play after a few million cycles but it won't break or give way.

The one I'd like to get would be the first run version in BG42. The way Bos did BG42 made it one of the best ever knife steels IMO. One reason the customs that were made in BG42 back in the old days are so sought after and sell quickly here on the forums.

Either version is nice, but if you go after the 880 series be aware of what you are getting, and what you are looking for. The drop point in PE is likely the most sought after. Combo edge not as much. That pretty much holds true for any series or brand of knife here amongst knife aficionados. I don't have any idea if the general public knife buyers works the same but here we do.

Expect to pay more for a drop point PE, and less for the tanto. The ones that look more like the strider knife I don't have any experience with. I do know there was a group that was made with bigger liners and some that were pretty flimsy as tank knives go so know what you are doing there if that's the way you decide to go.

Joe
 
OK, here are a couple of gratuitous shots of my 880SP. Just as an FYI, they are available on 'the Bay'.

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That picture is killin' me. Last fall I found one in an out of the way Buck dealers shop, on clearance for $65.00 and talked my self out of it.

:(
 
Gave my Buck Strider 80SP to my BIL, who uses it around his Texas property to cut branches and the like. Found it too heavy for my pocket. I'm relying on my neat little BuckLite 482 for most cutting chores these days; Buck's 420HC takes a scary edge and is tough, to boot. Love my BassPro 110 and Mini-Rukus, but they're bulky to pack around. For serious cutting duties, a fixed blade is inherently stronger than folders.
 
I didn't mention prying, nor is that the only use a thicker, stiffer blade has. Out in the woods, I often use knives for drilling, fire making and the like, and a stiffer blade is far more useful than a more flexible one. A fixed blade is even better, but hell--a battery powered drill would be even better than that, and staying out of the cold woods and remaining in a house would be even better! In fact, I've just discovered we don't need knives after all! ;) People tend to go to ridiculous extremes in arguing against heavy duty folders. Will it disasemble a tank? No. Is it a whole lot more resistant to breaking its tip off when popping a heavy duty staple out of a box than a thin clip point? Oh yes.
 
In a way, you did mention prying:

To separate one material from another would require prying, no?
Ah, I see the point of confusion, but no that's not what I meant. Actually, what I was thinking of there was an instance where I did in fact break out a chunk of a Case peanut's edge when trying to split some old wood glue away from a joint that had come apart--separating the glue from the wood. Prying? Sorta...more chiseling. Granted, in this case it was the thin edge (versus spine) that gave up, but the thicker spined, heavy-duty folders tend to have a correspondingly heavy duty blade geometry which, again, is better suited to some tasks. And you know what? The thinner geometry is better suited to some tasks too! The goofy "it can only be one way and any other way is stupid" rhetoric is what bugs me. A "knife" is a sharp object that splits material(s) apart in a line. A scalpel is a knife and a beef splitter is a knife. An axe is a knife on a stick. People will say that "you shouldn't split wood with a knife" and yet many factory fixed blades have edge geometries that are more robust than quality axes. It's just steel ground down to an edge, whatever you want to call it. I have knives that are not nearly as sharp as my 110s, and knives that are way sharper than my 110s. Hell, I have different edge geometries on my 110s, as one is my "general" tool and another is specifically a skinner. The thin, razor-like ones have their place, and the thick, meaty ones have their place too.

As to the stiffness, you're correct, but at the same hardness a thicker blade is stiffer (or more rigid if you prefer) than a thinner blade--meaning that it takes more force to overcome its tensile strength, whether leading to bend or fracture. I have a bent 110 tip---and that doesn't make it unuseable--that's mostly straightened out now. Some of my other 110s are nowhere near as needle-like out front and likely wouldn't have deformed under the same use (which was hardly abusive). There's no even remotely sane use that would bend the tip of my SR-1, though if it came to splinter-picking, I'd choose another knife. Actually, 110s are some of the best large folders when it comes to chasing splinters.
 
This is true. A thick-bladed knife's strength can only fully be realized in a fixed-blade configuration; where the frame(handle) is not the Achilles' heel.

Yes, can only be "fully realized." We're not trying to fully realize it. I didn't say a thick bladed folder was as strong as a knife could be, I said it was stronger than a folding hunter. The fact that a fixed blade is inherently stronger (which I mentioned in my original post on this subject) doesn't mean that there's no room for strength improvement in certain tasks. I've already mentioned wood work involving the tip, drilling, etc. Precisely the use that bent up the tip of my bent 110, and which the SR-1 does far better; the fact that it does it far better does not make the 110 a bad knife. The fact that the 110 is better at making fuzz sticks does not make the SR-1 a bad knife. What on earth is the point you're trying to make?

Prying with the tip of a 110 will lead to tip loss. There's no doubt about it. The 110's blade is a hollow-ground, swedged clip point. There's just not enough metal at the tip to prevent this if it is used as a pry tool.

Yep...and the fact that there's less material at the 110's tip also makes it better for digging for splinters, as I mentioned.



LionSteel's SR-1 has an ingot steel blade and a one-piece, sintered titanium frame. My money says the frame will snap around the pivot area if the blade is put in a vise with the intention to flex it laterally by the handle. Are there any titanium frame-locks which utilize non-powder frames or frame halves
Ummm, yes MOST titanium frame knives are made with frame halves. I'm afraid you've lost me with the assertion that being machined out of one piece instead of being several pieces screwed together is an inherent weakness. Regardless, are you actually claiming that the 1/16" brass halves and 1/8" brass pivot of a folding hunter are stronger than the 5/32" titanium walls and 3/16" stainless pivot of the SR-1?

***Amendment---okay, to be fair, the thickness of the Brass halves of the 110 at the pivot is actually right around 3/16" (more on one 110 I measured, slightly less on the other). Still, though, I'll readily stack 5/32" of titanium (sintered or otherwise) against 3/16" of brass any day of the week...especially when the structural piece is still the aforementioned 1/8" brass rod.

What's the point of a thick-bladed folder if the handle will fail first? A folder with a thinner blade, sans the tip, is still usable. A folder with a thick blade and a broken frame is not usable.

At this point, I'm not sure what the point is of continuing to respond since I've already answered every question you've posed here but you apparently either don't read or immediately forget. Nevertheless, here goes:
Once again, the thicker, more rigid blade/point does things certain things better than a thinner, weaker blade/point. Some examples are drilling in wood for fire making, splitting materials apart (try to remember, hard though it apparently is, that "prying" doesn't necessarily mean busting open a bank vault, and can be as innocuous as separating the sides a black walnut...oh yes indeed, that's prying). Other examples include having to push on the spine of the knife for long periods of time doing either carving or scraping work, where a thick spine is far more comfortable for your thumb than a thin one. Or popping a large, industrial staple out of a box. Now remember, these are just examples--let your imagination run wild.

And finally---remember the whole thing where we talked about the tendency of people to go to ridiculous extremes in order to argue against heavy duty folders? Who, other than you, is talking about putting the thing in a vice and tugging on it? As to the fact that the handle will fail first if pushed to its limit, again why must you jump from regular, real knife use for the 110 to catastrophic failure for a heavier knife under stupidly extreme circumstances? The 110's handle would fail under the same treatment (or likely before). I mean, the stick tang of a Kabar (or a Buck fixed blade, for that matter) will likely fail before the much wider blade in prying use too. Do you wonder what the point is of those as well?

Please, don't read this as acerbicness--I'm really, genuinely confused by what you're trying to get across here. The CSAR-T, SR-1, Hinderer XM18 and other such knives are stronger than a 110 is. Not because they're "better" knives but because they're designed and built differently. The 110 is better at slicing than those knives are. Not because it's "better" but because its designed and built differently.

Work really hard on getting this point---nobody is saying that a heavy duty folder is as strong as a heavy duty fixed blade. There IS a middle ground. For that matter, why carry a 110 when there are thinner, lighter, more capable slicing blades out there? What's the use of that big, honkin' 1/8" thick blade?

To make an analogy of this conversation, a 3/4 ton truck is capable of hauling/towing more than a compact truck. The compact truck owner might say that, "Well, if you REALLY need to haul something then a 3/4 ton could never carry as much as a semi-truck. I just don't get the point of the 3/4 ton." I would tend to think that compact truck owner actually does understand, but is just in the mood to argue.
 
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I've done everything you can thinikmof with my buck strider 880 spearpoint,and its held up to some serious abuse,which is why i reccommended it,he asked about a heavy duty folder,not a fixed blade or a chisel/hameer etc.

I know what knives are made for ,i also know exactly what the buck 880 spearpoint was made for,i've pried plenty of things with it,it can handle it.period.
 
Precisely. It doesn't have to be the toughest knife the world has ever seen to be legitimately called tougher. For some out there (my grandfather, for example) a folding hunter is absurdly overbuilt, too heavy, and silly to carry. I think he's every bit as incorrect in that belief as are other's beliefs here regarding these folders that they don't care for.
 
Just ordered a CSAR-T after seeing it first in this thread. I've been looking for a super-heavy-duty folder and it looks like this fits the bill. Plus, I've been wanting to add a few Bucks to my collection. All I have right now is a Wal-Mart Paperstone Vantage, which, I must say, is an awesome knife for the $15 I paid for it. Anyway, can't wait to get this beast - should arrive Tuesday!
 
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