Dogfather: Gross Abuse (Pics. Dialup Beware.)

Joined
Oct 25, 2004
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Those of you who know me from the HI forum are probably aware that I like to test things rather severely if I think that they're up to the task. I don't normally wail on production knives but I'd heard much about Busse/SR/SY, SR-77, and the Dogfather in particular. I was lucky enough to get one. Today was my first real day off since it arrived so I decided to put it through its paces.

The basic specs can be found at the Scrap Yard Knife Co. web page. My scale indicates a weight of 20 ounces. Point of balance is approximately 2.5" forward of the handle. According to the cardboard sleeve, it was inspected by "13." As you might imagine, this is a large, hefty knife with a decidedly point-heavy balance to it. It was mentioned in another thread that the Dogfather's overall feel reminded at least one owner of a khukuri and I'm inclined to agree with this. The edge was well formed and sharp enough for a chopper like this, but it wouldn't shave.

Now, on to the fun stuff:

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Some chopping on a fire-hardened piece of...I'm not sure, actually. Alder? It's good and seasoned, whatever it is, so I worked with it a bit to see how the factory edge held up. There were no issues. If you noticed the rusted nail next to the wood I applaud your attention to detail. Don't forget it -- we'll be revisiting that shortly.

Well, I remembered that pic of the chopped-up concrete and I've done that with other knives, so why not this one?

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This chewed the edge up a bit and reduced it to what could be charitably called dead dull. The bevel still remained at this point and the knife could conceivably continue to chop wood and such.

Moving on, I was curious about what would happen if a nail were encountered during the chopping process. I was unable to hammer one in to the piece of wood with the knife itself and an actual hammer wasn't much help either, so I settled on laying it down and using the wood as a chopping block.

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It took a few chops to get through each nail. Don't ask me where the other half went, but it departed with enough velocity that I was glad to be wearing eye protection. This generated small chips in the edge which did not impair chopping, although it probably would've caused some issues with slicing.

I also remembered the flex test. I dutifully chucked the Dogfather up in my vise (using pads to preserve the finish ;) ) around the midpoint and began reefing on it. By the time I'd resorted to bracing my feet on the bench to apply more force, the bench itself was making cracking noises. I stopped before I broke the vise loose. The Dogfather wins this one by forfeit.

It seems that I'm always running out of the small pieces of firewood necessary for starting a fire so I decided to split some. I opted for a few pieces of last year's leftovers, as it's good and seasoned. I did not have a baton handy so I used the back of my splitting maul.

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Continued...
 

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you left us hanging man, overall, how would you compare it to some of your HI's? What did you think so far? Great pics and thanks for the review:thumbup: :D

Oh and tell us how resharpening goes.
 
Continued:

It was relatively painless so I tried some larger pieces. This next one was particularly funny as it was so hard that I couldn't seat the Dogfather by swinging it alone. I lined it up and started hammering on it with the maul to get it started. Several swings later the block basically shattered, which is a good thing as I was getting close to the blade's length and would've been essentially beating on the tip. You can also see the effect that this batoning had on the finish on the spine, although the spine itself wasn't really affected.

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I didn't remember seeing any sheet metal cutting so I did a little myself with an old ammo can. Attempts to baton through the sides simply collapsed it so I pounded the point through the bottom and levered it to enlarge the cut:

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Yes, I know, this is almost a cliche these days. I was curious though. The point was undamaged, although the edge was dulled a bit.

Here's what the edge looked like when I was done. I would not have wanted to fix this with a ceramic hone, but it was no problem for the belt sander.

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I ground through the chips with the #80 belt, reduced the angle and increased the convex a bit, then polished it up just about to a mirror finish. It now shaves quite nicely. (It looks darker due to oil and residual chromium oxide.)

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Paper Cut

It's not the sharpest knife that I own but it's sharp enough.

Abuse aside, I'm quite happy with it. I had some misgivings about the handle material and size but it's all good. It's comfortable to use and doesn't seem to cause blisters. There was a decent amount of shock transmitted through the handle while pounding on the concrete; a simple remedy to this problem would be to not pound on concrete. :)

And now, the disclaimer:

I don't care what the warranty is, this is abuse. I would not have done this if I had not thought that the knife was up to it and that I'd be able to correct whatever I did do, and if I'd been wrong in this I wouldn't have made it a warranty issue -- this was on me. I think these are pretty good knives. If you have one of these, you ought to treat it better than this.

My curiosity's satisfied in any event. I hope that yours is.
 

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you left us hanging man, overall, how would you compare it to some of your HI's?

Depends. There's enough variability in HI's heat treat that a general comparison is difficult. I'd say that in general, they're similar. I own a few HI's that are a bit better, and some that are not. The DF's handle is more comfortable than most of them in their unmodified state. They're both good, just...different.

Oh, and as for the heat treat...SYK claims ~58 Rc IIRC. My "test" Nicholson lightly grabs the edge. This sounds about right. When I was regrinding it, I noticed that it ground extremely easily, yet it's still quite hard. I'm a bit confused by that.
 
Great reviev, but the wod in the first picture is actually Pacific Madrona, I am guessing due to the region of the wood you live on the west coast, Wa. or Ore. The reason is that Madrona is in fact 10X harder than Oak or maple or alder.
The splitting wod is Doug Fir.
Great knife, it takes a heck of a beating.
 
Sorry I just looked at your bio. and you are in Wa. Honest I didn't look first. And I meant to say wood not wod.
 
Thanks Dave, finished her up nicely. I am glad you added in there that you considered it abuse, as would I. A very honest review I though.
 
Fantastic pics, great comments. Now I wish they would build more and get them ready for sale!
 
Thanks a bunch for posting this. Certainly looks like there wasn't any gross damage.

Could you provide specs on the initial edge geometry, thickness, angles, etc? And how deep were the notches/nicks on average, and at most?

If it has a thick edge sharpened at 35 degrees per side, then I'd say it did horribly. But if it has a really thin edge sharpened at a shallow enough angle for good cutting ability, the test would be impressive. So there's a wide margin in how the results could be interpreted depending on details too small to tell in the pictures.
 
Thats far more than mine will ever see in the way of abuse. Good to know though. That does it for me. I know to stay clear of concreate at least.

Thanks for the review.

STR
 
The nicks, chips, dents and such probably went in 2-3mm in the worst areas, mostly where I was hitting the concrete. The nails left dings ~1mm. Stabbing through the ammo can dulled the edge somewhat but didn't appear to cause any real damage. The wood did nothing to it.

I show .0975" thickness where the coating begins. Bear in mind that I ground back a few millimeters but I also reduced the angle, so it may or may not be close to what it originally was. I have no way to measure the angle and it's gone in any event. SYK can probably furnish that information if you ask. The edge was not particularly thick for a knife of that size. It could cut in stock trim but as I said above, it would not shave. The original edge was fairly coarse. I understand that some owners report that theirs would shave but I've encountered this with other knives as well. Perhaps my hair is different.

Most of my grinding and sharpening is on differentially hardened 5160 or similar. In retrospect, I can see why this would feel different.

As for the madrone, I should have guessed. I'd figured the bark had burned off without realizing that what I was looking at was the bark. Now I'm simply curious where in the hell it came from, as none of it grows around my place and I don't recall hauling any out for anyone else. Odd.
 
The nicks, chips, dents and such probably went in 2-3mm in the worst areas, mostly where I was hitting the concrete. The nails left dings ~1mm.

Two or three millimeters?? Ouch! Wouldn't that be about the entire edge bevel? One milimeter is bad enough, but as you get higher up on the edge, the steel is getting thicker and thicker. Are you just going from memory here or did you measure that with the calipers?

I show .0975" thickness where the coating begins. Bear in mind that I ground back a few millimeters but I also reduced the angle, so it may or may not be close to what it originally was. ...The edge was not particularly thick for a knife of that size.

.0975" at the top of the edge bevel? That's about 2 1/2 mm thick, right? I have big choppers (fodder knives) that aren't that thick at the spine. In contrast, the transition between the primary grind and edge bevel on my big bowie is .048"- that's less than half as thick as the edge you've quoted here. If I set the caliper jaws at .0975", they slide up onto the blade .6" (15.3mm).

I haven't intentionally beat it like this, but I've whacked concrete & steel pretty good with it a number times, and not seen damage quite that bad. I'm a bit hesitant to really test it out now...
 
Two or three millimeters?? Ouch! Wouldn't that be about the entire edge bevel? One milimeter is bad enough, but as you get higher up on the edge, the steel is getting thicker and thicker. Are you just going from memory here or did you measure that with the calipers?

That's going from memory. The bevel was not gone, but the area that took the most damage was noticeably thinner. I ground in quite a ways, not only with the goal of removing any last trace of damage but also to extend the bevel and reduce the angle a bit.

.0975" at the top of the edge bevel? That's about 2 1/2 mm thick, right? I have big choppers (fodder knives) that aren't that thick at the spine. In contrast, the transition between the primary grind and edge bevel on my big bowie is .048"- that's less than half as thick as the edge you've quoted here. If I set the caliper jaws at .0975", they slide up onto the blade .6" (15.3mm).

I'm primarily a khukuri and axe guy. We seem to have different thoughts on what is thick. :)

To be fair, it took me a few minutes and a good number of swings to generate that much damage on the edge. All we're seeing in the pics is the result, not what transpired before.
 
I'm primarily a khukuri and axe guy. We seem to have different thoughts on what is thick. :)

The edge on my HI dui chirra isn't really any thicker than my big bowie. The edge on my Wetterlings hatchet isn't either. I've never measured the edges on my antique double bit axes, but I don't think they're nearly as thick as your new knife either. :)

But yeah, I guess some of what we're seeing could be the result of damage on top of damage- i.e., striking in the same spot a number of times making the cumulative damage look worse.
 
Great review! To quote Will Smith: "Man I gotta Get One Of These!" When funds allow and the company starts making them again.
 
Dave Rishar,
EXCELLENT Review/Testing!
Fantastics pics & movie.

And the Edge you put back on afterwards.. that's Better than new!

After the #80 belt sander.. What other belts/steps did you use to get that mirror finish edge?
Oh and what belt sander do you use?

That was a great read. I too am glad I bought a Dog Father :)
Thanks for posting Dave! :thumbup:


..the wod in the first picture is actually Pacific Madrona, I am guessing due to the region of the wood you live on the west coast, Wa. or Ore. The reason is that Madrona is in fact 10X harder than Oak or maple or alder. The splitting wod is Doug Fir..
stansbrew,
wow, good "wood ID" skills!
 
the possum said:
.0975" at the top of the edge bevel? That's about 2 1/2 mm thick, right? I have big choppers (fodder knives) that aren't that thick at the spine.

You have big choppers that are less than 1/10" thick at the spine? Id like to see them....
 
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