dont touch that factory edge !!!!

Ahh, now if Ditch_Digger had qualified his "polished edge" statement by saying "in high(er) speed machining operations..." There's no doubt that at high speed your tool finish needs to be very clean.
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Actually, I think high speed isn't really the issue. A drill is a type of cutting tool whose edge is essentially making a constant push cut. Push cuts are what fine, or polished, edges excel at. Sawing or sliding cuts are where coarser, or "micro-serrated" edges generally shine. Of course, as always, there are crossovers and exceptions to these rules, as you are well aware.
 
today the benchmade stryker 1600 came in the mail and the edge is still suprisingly sharp considering it has never been touched up in 6 years. the serrated edge is still sharp and shows no dull spots. (there is a picture of the blade on page 8 of this thread.)
 
Just got my blade back from Richard. Amazing job. I also polished the pivot on it. Got it as close to mirror as I could without having any polishing compound. Its reflecting black off my nikon so its even shinier then it looks. It opened great before, now its just butter...

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Thanks again Richard!
 
MikeS1605 said:
Just got my blade back from Richard. Amazing job. I also polished the pivot on it. Got it as close to mirror as I could without having any polishing compound. Its reflecting black off my nikon so its even shinier then it looks. It opened great before, now its just butter...

DSC_0158.jpg


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Thanks again Richard!
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Closeups of the edge please. Those shots are too zoomed out to properly gauge edge quality and finish.

Edit: And I'm seeing some potential sharpening defects near where the serrations starts. Can't say I'm very impressed at all just yet.
 
My current procedure is to reprofile free hand to 30 degrees inclusive. Once completed I use a Sharpmaker to strike either a 30 or 40 degree microbevel, followed by stropping. Obviously sometimes my inclusive bevel is more like 27.5. This is producing a very sharp, very durable, and easily maintainable edge. By getting that Sharpmaker bevel on there, I know when I go back to the sharpmaker the angles will line up and I can return the edge with a little metal removed as possible. This is also my new procedure for touching up Scandi grinds. There I go with a 30 inclusive, about 20 strokes or 50 to a side and them refine with a strop. This can go on for quite a while before I have to go back to the stones to take that wide scandi bevel back down to zero.
 
For you? Perhaps. For someone else? Hard to say....lots of different users and uses out there you know...
 
That's 20 degrees per side (40 inclusive) if using the Sharpmaker in the usual manner. AFter rebeveling nearly every knife I've owned, including 2 Delicas, it's a shallower angle than provided from nearly any factory.
 
unit said:
For you? Perhaps. For someone else? Hard to say....lots of different users and uses out there you know...
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I've been using knives most of my life at work and play and never needed anything that steep (camping, butchering in abattoir, deburring blades, edc, etc), so I do know from my experience of which everyones will differ. Its an opinion which is what this forums for "you know"...
 
Just to be clear...I am talking 40 inclusive. I go back and forth between liking a 30 or a 40 inclusive. On scandis, when I micro, I always do a 30. I have redone my ESEEs to 30. I redid my Spyderco Delica and Endura pack to a 40 micro bevel. I am now in a testing phase. I use the folders more than the fixed. As it stands, the 40 micro bevel on the VG-10 FFG blades of my Enduras and Delicas is just scary sharp and a great slicer and is proving to be very durable having done many cutting tasks appropriate for a folder of this type with no apparent wear or dulling whatsoever.
 
HoosierQ said:
Just to be clear...I am talking 40 inclusive. I go back and forth between liking a 30 or a 40 inclusive. On scandis, when I micro, I always do a 30. I have redone my ESEEs to 30. I redid my Spyderco Delica and Endura pack to a 40 micro bevel. I am now in a testing phase. I use the folders more than the fixed. As it stands, the 40 micro bevel on the VG-10 FFG blades of my Enduras and Delicas is just scary sharp and a great slicer and is proving to be very durable having done many cutting tasks appropriate for a folder of this type with no apparent wear or dulling whatsoever.
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Yup, that is exactly what I assumed you meant. I think you are probably quite justified in your choice to sharpen the way you prescribe...in fact some VERY experienced people and at least one that is in charge of a pretty big knife company recommend exactly what you are describing and do it that way on their personal knives.

However, not everyone is the same, and we all adjust accordingly.
 
i had a friend give me his 2 blade camillus knife to sharpen. the edge was never touched in years and was fairly sharp even though he uses it every day at a feed mill cutting all kinds of stuff. when i resharpened it i matched the factory edge angle so he should be good for several more years.
 
Sparljo said:
I always try the factory edge before taking it to the stones.

It never seems to matter how good it is, it always ends up going to the stones anyway. Im almost certain I have a problem.
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+1 to EVERYTHING you said. Exact same here. I always try em first, then I always munky with them and it's really just because I'm a bladejunky who can't get enough of playing with sharp pieces of steel.
 
stitchawl said:
It really is difficult to be polite when I see posts like this...

Richard, there are young children out there who may actually believe you. It's time to be more responsible.


Stitchawl
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As much as you rudelly enjoy calling the man a liar, I've chopped down a number of trees with the Junglas and had it able to shave arm hair after.
It ain't a migic knife, just a good one.
 
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