Dr. Frankenstein, The Saga Continues!!!

Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Messages
1,119
Hey everyone,

An earlier post I made, and a couple posts from other members, got me thinking about a thread dedicated to breaking down and explaining the process of modifying a traditional slip joint. We can also use this to help answer and questions about knife mods that are not shown in the tutorial below.

To begin, here is a post Charlie made a while back explaining how to disassemble a slip joint, I use this same method
:
The tools of the trade!
None but the best! A fine cutler's hammer, and a venerable old remnant kitchen knife, of good quality carbon steel.
Not shown is a six inch piece of high grade 2x4, left over from building a bench in my workshop!;)
DIPtools.jpg

Here is where a scanner just doesn't cut it! (pun intended:D)
I'll have to describe how I got to the next step;
You open the blades of the knife, and sit it on its back on the 2x4.
If you feel uncomfortable hitting something with your hand over the upturned blades, cover the edges with a couple layers of duct tape - might save you some stitches.
No, I don't speak from experience:p!
I prefer to start the DIP tool (knife) between the main blade and center liner. Tap briskly! Watch that the tool is going straight! Bing goes the pivot pin!!
Turn the knife end for end and cut through the other pivot pin, in the same "space" alongside the center liner. Bing!!
Now continue the tool through the main spring pin, and Voile!
The knife is in two, with its innards on display!
Elapsed time - 2 minutes!!:D

DIPfirst.jpg


Look at those beautiful rivets! Observe the slight relieving of the spring, so it works smoothly.

I've wondered if the round part of the tang contacted the spring, along with the run-up, when the blade was open - the knifemaker's secrets revealed!!
What else do you see??

Next, I will refer to a couple of my posts that break down the build process:

Here are the materials I will be using for this mod:

E7E21509-ECA3-4E22-962D-ADB63DEE13A7_zpsfeizi5qk.jpg


Apache copper/creme burlap composite scales, with nickel hardware, an easy-open notch, and a rat tail on the bolster. This composite is a personal favorite, the copper mesh was given to me by a friend who works on composites used in military applications, and he sent me the mesh which is used as a conductive material in apache and black hawk helicopters.

Here is where I begin:

Ok, so after a long Monday, I was finally able to get some workshop time in and make a dent in this knife (not literally). Sorry about the crappy pics, its hard to take quality pics on my phone while I'm working without slowing down too much. So here is a breakdown in my progress so far:

First things first, I needed to trace out my liners, bolsters, and scales out of the nickel and composite, then I cut them out on the bandsaw:

698FF99B-6826-44FE-83B5-2B5ACCC1AF08_zpsgxwlfepn.jpg


Then I drilled the pin holes in the scales for alignment and precision purposes during the setup process. What you see here is the original scale double-sided taped to both rough cut liners to assure the holes match up properly:

1F12D7A7-2E34-44F2-A95E-B8C669B9B8F4_zps9jciwy3m.jpg

0A05D14B-F5C1-4F52-8B09-A52F8F7E0E48_zpshrynvw1u.jpg


Here are the liners separated from each other:

7389BD0E-977E-4431-82E8-207404620609_zpsktrloxni.jpg


Here I am using the template I made from the old liner to mark off where I want the bolster to be:
8CBF2E9A-517B-4FF2-9A79-EDE7D8EC160E_zpsiqim1r7r.jpg

525EC080-A68E-4620-A55B-A228C5C42291_zps8cb2uw8h.jpg


Once I set the bolster to match the template, I clamp it in place, then I use a pencil and I shade the part of the liner that will be directly below the bolster, and the exposed edge of the bolster on the bottom. This does two things, it helps me eyeball where the bolster needs to go, and the pencil lead prevents the solder from sticking to the liner and the bottom edge of the bolster in the next step:

E9FB1631-79B1-4E24-883A-84624217DF0E_zpsy9rpgapf.jpg

36C0369C-8EA8-49D4-A945-629B53430B91_zpsdtcoidvz.jpg


After wiping the liner and bolster with acetone, I put a little flux on the liners and bolsters where I want the solder to stick:

C8D1FE1B-F1A1-42FB-8D77-DF393C472E03_zps5etvyney.jpg


Soldering:

00DB249C-44FA-49B4-881A-15F98F4A93EB_zpsczttlqzp.jpg

09BF3156-757D-4978-AA61-75E13A855ABC_zpsmyqnxk2h.jpg

83036908-3A6A-458A-9E17-1E58D54BCB06_zpsvex0fvwb.jpg


Cooling down:

7F9D6228-3511-4E74-B69B-888B7CA388BF_zpsb8qbsm6w.jpg


Here is where I changed up my plan a little bit. I was planing on using a 2 ton epoxy to stick the scales to the liners and not pining them to the liner like I sometimes do on a smaller knife with a bigger bolster, but I decided to go a different route due to the smaller bolster on this larger knife. Since there is so much more surface area to cover than I usually have to work with, I definitely want to make sure that scale is secure, but since I am pinning it, there is no need to use a 2 ton epoxy, super glue works just fine!

53F684F5-A1A1-43D1-8F24-94D88EBB0CE8_zpsyuadngup.jpg


Dry fit test to see how the bolsters line up looks good:

61ECBBDD-4CF4-44FD-B8A2-CA6E92E124ED_zpshettgvup.jpg


Here is where I drill the scale pin holes in the liners based on the old template:

992B6F31-DF4A-40F1-9055-97BB5F727D27_zpsui9yqiuy.jpg

45F0E240-A8CC-4548-99A6-2796D6CAF073_zps5ayhr5mx.jpg


After sanding off any burrs from drilling, and cleaning with acetone, the scales are ready for gluing:

6EF72DA7-49D9-4E05-8E4C-31A3E2AB2509_zpsoizdih1l.jpg

485CA03A-C94F-4733-A6EA-2B6DD1F5A266_zpsjrucbdur.jpg


Now I drill the holes in the scales and bolsters:

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66012E81-6767-4260-A2E3-74362D57FFDF_zpseuc2isz4.jpg


Dry fit for alignment looks good:

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07A9A145-D747-4220-9B8A-8582F889F6C0_zpsgolmsnlg.jpg


This is where I called it a night.
 
Last edited:
Continued:

Ok, so I'm back with more progress!
First things first, I want to show you guys the most important tools in my shop:

66C331EE-BAF8-4ABF-B30E-8D7765BCA4A9_zpsypwmr1p5.jpg


Working with these materials can be very hazardous to your health, especially the composites. So if you decide to try something like this, please make sure to take proper safety precautions so you don't lose an eye or a lung!

Now for the fun!

So here is where I left you guys:
DC6AEE32-A81B-4BC4-B461-4B597B751C82_zpsoa6s8jdr.jpg


Next step from here is to shape the scale to match the original. I pin the old scale to the new one and sand the edges down on the disc sander:

B9680489-384C-4010-9B01-0C5B7314C1A3_zpsogyfdh6z.jpg

174A825D-9482-4CB1-8333-CC2F9CCCCB8D_zpshash7mtf.jpg

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D3C497BF-BBBD-4820-8CE0-6A1EFFE85003_zpsmvmhn995.jpg


I like to leave a little extra around the edges so that I don't take too much off then have to grind down the spring during hafting. Next step is to even out the scales on the wider belt sander:

2FF77448-1787-4EDC-8262-3C2BE5BCC19E_zps01dgh0ab.jpg

AF902A53-C865-4383-922E-1A73410CAB0D_zpsjduamdvf.jpg


Nice and flat:

B1C5B2DA-6A70-43B7-A932-B1DEC76681A4_zpsshc7k0yf.jpg

43FBBB2C-E377-4A84-9287-34EA23E208A6_zpsbed0m5xz.jpg


Lets test out the fit:
1A8BF5EF-E04C-4451-8B4D-FBB90D520577_zpsaefq53n7.jpg

5DFAC5EE-5CEA-47A1-B853-4628F8F76F3D_zpsbbpdyat3.jpg

7E7D40D0-8FEB-4BD3-8187-BFE3BE24DB0D_zpshjefpdfy.jpg

A53A191F-3DFD-496B-86E3-28B4A0CD393C_zps5dxvnnvq.jpg

72BAF89D-AEE2-4651-8B96-BB9CC7C6FF58_zpssdbd7mvu.jpg

278D3CB7-FA59-4B84-A3DB-ED772411E180_zpscklyboxk.jpg


So a good tip for when you pin the knife together is to make a point at the end of the pin so it wedges itself into the spring and glides through. Without this, you will be tapping the pin into the side of the spring hole and no good will come of that...

721A2364-F118-49D7-8947-F8BBA13ED0A0_zpsk8dxde0c.jpg

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Tada!

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Time for some hafting! I use my crappy harbor freight 1x30 belt sander to do most of this work, the rest is by hand with files and sand paper:

8212F8D5-BBB4-44F0-9C19-558BBDB4A86F_zpshbwszmkm.jpg


Shape looking good:

44C0A847-A09A-469C-ACAE-5F3AC2D36B1B_zps1tx6d0bi.jpg

8E9E4F30-6D2B-4A1A-84B4-39D2EA6D55FF_zpsjwfuza2f.jpg

2C2D409F-BE68-496F-8102-CE04C71097D5_zps3g8h9hhk.jpg


Disassembly:

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Lets make this an easy open:

F369BE73-A6FC-4779-BF13-861870EE20D1_zpsm06cczzg.jpg

0B2ECAD6-4DDE-4BCA-918C-F9E16B35DCA2_zpswjkwaisy.jpg

B4D233AB-FA33-4C3C-8AC2-37A783461B71_zpsmpvt0qgj.jpg

86C8A616-2A30-4FF4-BE2D-750625F79A25_zps1beu8hg2.jpg


No real suggestions on how to do this one, I just eyeball it. Lets chamfer this bad boy:
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AE5B3A5B-C7A9-4484-8826-F43F4068A251_zpstpzxtwgb.jpg

AB77FBF2-A5F2-4ADC-871E-FC8E9E2CB4C6_zpsmfgjpqa1.jpg

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1DA14D8E-C237-49CD-ACFD-D76738757806_zpsrhnumop2.jpg


Give it a good reaming:
A46D6151-40EA-42A1-ADB1-312A7B776B99_zpsmyhgfxl5.jpg

64CBA9A5-D5D8-4E4D-850B-0C42F06D466B_zpshtpkqmdb.jpg


Using a reamer adds a bevel to the hole allowing the pin to expand and grip the hole after sanding the dome down. I ream all of the holes on the front of the scale, but only the scale pin holes on the back. No need to ream the inner holes of the spring and pivot pins.

Peening a pin for the scale:

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BA8F6FB8-D709-4FF4-A716-F2DB28FDD5D4_zpsp24wkuue.jpg


Clip off the excess pin and file it down leaving a little bit for peening:

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1A0F7B27-1E29-4BD1-A4A4-7ED87F46A7A2_zpshz2pcurs.jpg

FAE2831D-EB2B-45C6-A0EA-FCC15D40EB00_zps7cwhhcid.jpg

F3530CFB-FB34-499D-A73B-8DB65423DBE9_zpsknzonz41.jpg


Peening the scale pins. Be gentle here so you do not crack your scales!

1E3BDC19-995D-4BFC-BD8E-AC98E90C1315_zpsbgu943kx.jpg

2DEE3C2C-DAC8-4415-B25D-822B1177A720_zpsdd9n2exl.jpg


Smoothing the pins on the liner:

F3FEB50D-4763-4347-B9FA-49B75E0EFA89_zpsboxqc9n3.jpg

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Now I sand and polish them smooth. This helps in achieving a nice smooth action, and a nice clean look:

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8CA08AA3-263F-4058-9235-874B38EFC84C_zpsnldgi0na.jpg


Clamping the scale for the rat tail on the bolster. I use the clamp as a guide and a small round file for this:

B863FDD0-8B12-4315-B023-6552BD131F04_zps5fgd4luk.jpg

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Now we are ready for final assembly!!

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I spray all the parts with WD40 to make sure any grit stays out during the assembly process:

F146A06D-1B5D-41BD-9351-648F9C44BB50_zpszpds2yie.jpg


Assembled and ready to peen one side of the pins:

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You want to make sure you peen one side of the pins before cutting them down so you do not accidentally remove too much. Once they are peened, tap them all the way down and trim the pins to size. Before trimming the pivot pin, I insert me slackener between the blade and the liner. A slackener is a tool made of thin metal (mine is .01" stainless steel) that you use to make sure you do not tighten down the pivot pin too much. This tool is CRUCIAL to achieving smooth action.

D2E6352C-1E90-44DB-ABC0-BB275DA89BDE_zpswcxvf2nm.jpg

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At this point, I peened the spring pins down nice and tight. I thought I took a pic, but cant find it... You get the idea though.

Now I trim the pivot pin and file it down to size for peening:

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49D06C08-8CFA-4CFE-922C-21164A23CB2E_zpsifmkrp28.jpg


You have to trim it with the slackener already in place, or you will not have enough pin left when you try to insert the slackener.

Now I peen and file the pivot pin:

A73E9FBB-711C-4C2A-BB34-4D6D08FE70A0_zpscwa2bgdc.jpg

AAA2F043-E719-4774-945A-B8A3788249DF_zpsliz2nhs2.jpg

DB8B5DE1-549C-4F1C-A22C-5A8819B5D404_zpszp7iynfr.jpg

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F19A9636-A720-4526-AB30-9035A5CF2EE0_zpsnft8jdns.jpg


Nice and clean after some sanding:

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ACBDCF59-1067-463B-9C8D-2DE75F0A8D0C_zpsm7h8nyox.jpg


Aaaand this is where I leave you hanging... Any further would ruin the surprise for Justin!

The rest of the process is finishing work. From here I file and sand the scales and bolsters to matching dimensions, and then add the CA finish. Cyanoacrylate is the main ingredient in super glue, but I went and got a CA finish kit after realizing how much of a pain your standard super glue is to use as a finish. Basically what I do is coat the composite with thin CA to fill and gaps and even out the surface. Then I add medium viscosity CA to give it a nice thick protective later, and add bulk for sanding. I then sand the entire knife in steps up to 1500 grit, and polish it on my buffing wheel. The transformation from before and after CA finish is pretty astonishing, but I will let Justin show you guys the final product.

**I always tape up the blade with some blue painters tape, but I got caught up in the pics and I completely forgot to do this. This is an important step so you do not cut yourself or scratch up the blade with a file!! This is actually the first step in my process, even before disassembly, that way the blade stays pristine from the start. Luckily I did not cut myself or scratch the blade at all up to this point, but you better believe the blade is taped up now! Wow, I can't believe I forgot that one...

Whew, that was a lot of typing...

Thanks for reading everyone! If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me and I will do my best to answer you. I am by no means a professional, so if anyone sees a flaw in my process, feel free to comment with a suggestion!

I will try to continue updating this thread as my methods advance and become more efficient, but for now, this will be a good starting point.

Good luck and please remember to be safe!
 
Great tutorial. Thanks for going to the trouble :thumbup:
 
Thanks for sharing esnyx, I was very interested in the process and you couldn't have been more thorough. My amboyna burl #15 is at my local post office, I can't wait!
 
Very nice tutorial. I have an old Remington Grand Daddy barlow that I would like to try this on. Thank you for taking the time to post this.
 
That was absolutely perfect. There is no doubt it will lead me into countless misadventures.

Ed
 
Excellent tutorial!! Thanks for taking the time to post it. I haven't modded my own yet but maybe someday...
 
Great post....I appreciate you taking the time and effort to put that together. Very informative and great pictures.

Good stuff!

Joe
 
Super job on the tutorial!! I really appreciate all your work to get this up. I look forward to any additional information. Subscribed and Thanks again!!
 
Thanks everyone! I'll add pics of the completed knife after Justin receives it. I left out some parts of the process that I think would be helpful to know, so on my next build, I'll try to document them and fill in the gaps. I'll also try to keep updating the process as I refine it.

Anyone have any tips on how to do any cool modifications to a slippie? I'm always up for learning something new!
 
I've always thought on some of these smaller knives, they'd still benefit by having a hollow pin for a lanyard. So if you're somewhere kinda rugged, you could pull your knife out without having to get your hand in the pocket, as well as loss prevention when you'd know you never find it if you lost it. Or kayaking, boating, whatever. And some guys like lanyards just in general. Oh, another use. If you needed to lower it to someone but didn't want to toss it. That's a weak one I know. Sounded better in my head as there is so much room in there I get the neat echo effect. Lol.

Even if the hollow rivet is small, you could still get a nylon line thru, like from in a piece of paracord, or heavy flushing line in a pinch.

They only seem to be used on the larger knives and I'm not sure why, not being a builder. I about cried when Vic discontinued the hollow rivet starting with 94 made knives. I tied a black ribbon around my 93 for a week in sorrow. :)
 
I've always thought on some of these smaller knives, they'd still benefit by having a hollow pin for a lanyard. So if you're somewhere kinda rugged, you could pull your knife out without having to get your hand in the pocket, as well as loss prevention when you'd know you never find it if you lost it. Or kayaking, boating, whatever. And some guys like lanyards just in general. Oh, another use. If you needed to lower it to someone but didn't want to toss it. That's a weak one I know. Sounded better in my head as there is so much room in there I get the neat echo effect. Lol.

Even if the hollow rivet is small, you could still get a nylon line thru, like from in a piece of paracord, or heavy flushing line in a pinch.

They only seem to be used on the larger knives and I'm not sure why, not being a builder. I about cried when Vic discontinued the hollow rivet starting with 94 made knives. I tied a black ribbon around my 93 for a week in sorrow. :)

I have a GEC #06 Pemberton in the mail that I am planning on turning into a keychain knife. I will post my process this weekend or next week when I work on it. I'm not really sure why they aren't commonly used on smaller knives, I added a lanyard hole to a peanut, and that worked just fine...
 
So I tried converting a GEC #15 pen blade into a wharnie for the first time, turned out much better than expected! One very important tip to remember is to continuously dip the blade in water as you are cutting or grinding it so you don't mess up the heat treatment.

Here I drew out the shape that I wanted:

F93B0A47-02DA-4E54-BF29-05766CEF277E_zps9jwn3yny.jpg


So I tried to cut it out on the bandsaw first, but that wasn't going anywhere, so I switched to the cut-off wheel on the dremel:

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That was easy, ugly, but easy:

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9406038E-C09C-41BD-969C-93DCD19763C4_zpsncifilas.jpg


Lets give it that nice rounded shape on the belt sander:

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Adding a swedge:

D8245A18-0C22-4B02-86DB-0E31F3AAE6CF_zpsgks0hv4o.jpg

B023933B-E7ED-4117-8E13-9F767D6B3865_zpsqyrluqph.jpg


Lookin' good, now lets polish this guy up a bit... Aahhhh, much better:

0F5CC684-67D6-4CD8-B0B2-2BE14D140564_zpsookk2oux.jpg

1A0F0967-D01E-48C3-8CD8-5796BA7AD0A8_zpswtgbfjj4.jpg

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The last thing I do is sharpen the blade after I have the knife completed.

Thanks for looking!
 
Wow what a great read! I learned so much from this write up. Thank you very much for taking the time to explain all the hard work you put into your modifications! Have you messed with any of the old Schrades and converting them from the swinden key to a standard pivot pen?
 
Wow what a great read! I learned so much from this write up. Thank you very much for taking the time to explain all the hard work you put into your modifications! Have you messed with any of the old Schrades and converting them from the swinden key to a standard pivot pen?

No problem! I love learning, so I thought I would help pass on what knowledge I've gained. About the swinden key, I am not familiar with that term, but are those the old Schrades with the hollow scales and bolsters?
 
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