Drill bits for hard steel

Mark Terrell said:
Masonry bits work, but the only bad thing is, they aren't exact. Generally they are +/- quite a bit from what you're wanting (I.E. 3/16 or 1/4...).

1/8' shank collared carbide bits will do it just fine. I use them all the time, and now I very rarely drill the steel before I heat treat it.

What size do you need? If it's under .220, I've got it. I have literally thousands of Carbide bits and I'll just send you a few, provided I've got the right size.

Or if all else fails, and you just aren't confident doing it, send it over, mark the spots and I'll drill it for you, no sweat.


Mark T.
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What type of carbide bits do you use? Today I bought a masonry one but not the spade glass and tile one.
I was thinking about tempering the knife in the oven then drilling and reheating, however.... I do not know the type of steel (japanese kitchen knife, rusts fairly easily) I havent built myself a furnace yet, and I am not sure how to heat treat layered steel (its got a center hard layer and a softer layer on each side)
 
I use diamond drills to drill anything that is too hard for regular bits. I got a Drill Doctor bit sharpener, for regular bits it actually sharpens them better and truer than they come from the factories

-Page
 
sunshadow said:
I got a Drill Doctor bit sharpener, for regular bits it actually sharpens them better and truer than they come from the factories

-Page
Click to expand...

I got one for Christmas this year. I have not use it as of yet. Most people say it works on most of the bits. I will see. :D
 
I just use generic collared bits......

I buy all mine from Marty Sherman of M&M tools. His # is 1-800-999-8952. They're pretty inexpensive, but the best I've used thus far, and I've used just about every kind you can imagine.....


MT
 
Update:
The masonry bit worked quite well in drilling the steel. It took a good 5-10 minutes a hole but it got through and the bit seems still usable.
Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Guys, I`m new here... and found this site by doing a google search on drilling hardened steel, I saw "blade forums" and clicked on the link to find this thread. It was perfect because I am trying to drill (relocate) a hole in a knife blank. I had been to 3 different industrial supply places locally. I tried regular bits first (waste of time) the "experts recommended cobalt and/or tapdrills, nothing did more than scratch the surface. I read here this morning about masonary bits and was a little hesitant to believe... but, I had a used bit in my toolbox and figured... what have I got to lose. I actually laguhed when I started to drill with it.... not new, no special sharpening, just a used bit.... just like said here....like butta. Thanks so much for the information.....
 
(I would follow JT advice). I drill though hardened wear plate sleel all the time, and the trick is to remove the temper with heat, unless you're willing to spend more for better drill bits.
 
deja vu,

Welcome to the forums. I will be the first to tell you, if you are interested in making or working on knives, come here often! You will learn more from these guys than just about anywhere. The wealth of information shared on this site could easily fill multiple volumes. This is, IMO, the best knife maker's resource out there.

BTW, if you are a non paying member, you will not be able to use the search function. If you want, you can google to find information. For instance, if you wanted to search for "drilling hardened steel," just word your searches like this in the google search box:

drilling hardened steel site:bladeforums.com

Works great! You can search any website that way by changing the "site:_______" portion and filling in the website.

--nathan
 
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