Drill Press Requirements?

what i use to do was drill to 3" with the press, drill another 2' with a hand drill with a LONG bit, file it out and fill up the damage with epoxy. Where the big press with the long stroke REALLY helps is drilling for through tang knives.
 
jdm61 said:
what i use to do was drill to 3" with the press, drill another 2' with a hand drill with a LONG bit, file it out and fill up the damage with epoxy.
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OK, I could live with that. I'll take a look around for long drill bits. Where can I find one that makes a rectangular slot... :D

Guys, I want you all to know I appreciate your time and expertise you're sharing, I'm not trying to drive you crazy with dumb questions :o.
 
if you can spring for it...carbide drills are reeeeeally nice :D I had a few given to me and they've spoiled me! Haven't broken one yet because I'm always very careful with them, and the .25" one I've drilled over 100 holes with so far
 
mrstenoien, I recently broke down and bought a set of Craftsman carbide bits and like them so far. I found they weren't really more expensive, since I learned (the hard way of course) to go slow (both drill speed and pressure) with plenty lube (thread cutting oil is ok, right?) and haven't broken one yet. Other good ones to look for?

Cheese an rice, they're gonna take away my parentheses privileges if I keep abusing them like that...
 
Gixxer, mine is a floor model and it's not a JT33 taper. I have a new JT33 arbor and it doesn't fit. I've tried several different arbors, with no luck. I think it's a communist plot to drive me crazy. The chuck that came on it is a piece of junk, but it's gotten worse. I've got several brand new Jacobs Super Chucks 1/2" and 3/4" and need to know what the taper is for the drill press. I called Sears and the mental giant I talked to informed me that they quit using chucks. That isn't a joke, I'm serious. It's a shame you can't reach through the phone lines and choke some people.
 
Tom, here's a set of tables that may help you size the existing arbor:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper

I have an old "Cummins-Mack" Taiwanese 3/4HP floor stander. It has an MT2 spindle taper. On the advice of a knifemaker friend, I replaced the arbor and bought a keyless chuck from Grizzly. grizzly has an excellent selection of arbors. Both have excellent runout. Just as good as anything but the most expensive Rohm and Albrechts.
 
Or you could go the route I took and bought a combo mill / drill from MicroMark.com. It's a nice little bench unit, plenty of power and it gives you flexibility. It's by far a Cadillac on the milling section, but for most knifemaking, I've found it to work quite well. It was this model http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82573 I know it may be a little out of your price range, but as I said, it does give you some flexibility. If you do decide on it, make sure you get the milling chuck, it doesn't come with one ironically. I bought one off of eBay for a 1/3 of what MicroMark wanted for it with all the collets.
 
GibsonFan said:
OK, I could live with that. I'll take a look around for long drill bits. Where can I find one that makes a rectangular slot... :D

Guys, I want you all to know I appreciate your time and expertise you're sharing, I'm not trying to drive you crazy with dumb questions :o.
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There are a couple of morticing machines that have a 5 inch stroke, but there are two problems with those. First of all, 1/4 inch is the SMALLEST bit they make and folks I have talked to are not so sure how much luck I would have cutting into the end grain of some of the more exotic hardwoods with one of those machines,
 
jdm61 said:
There are a couple of morticing machines that have a 5 inch stroke, but there are two problems with those...
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Yup, I have looked at mortising machines a couple times, but honestly that's way beyond what I really need. Your comment about using them to cut into end-grain is another reason I don't think that's what I need. I was kidding about the 1/4" rectangular drill bit ;)

I have a certain peculiar fondness for mortised scale, narrow tang handles, but I can do that with tools I already have, it just takes a while. I must admit, buying a small router has crossed my mind on several occasions... thanks for reminding me of more $$$ I don't really want to spend!

TekSek, that drill/mill you mentioned might be something to look at more, a little further down the line. Right now I mostly just want to drill my dang pin holes straight and keep them in line! I think that's one of the things that separate the pro's from the wannabe's. (duh)
 
i have a mini mill HF style and i use it for all my milllling and drilling jobs
that said there ae times that i wish i had a full size drill for the now and then big parts
 
I have used EBAY and the local want adds to purchase a couple of drill presses at a very reasonable price. Speed adjustment and quality are important. I like he old sears I picked up fo $150.00 off EBay. It has a 1 horse motor on it now, it came with a half horse and with speed adjustment work great with both motors. As for the bits I am testing a set of Bad Dog bits, they seem to peform well at high speeds in mild steel as well as stainless.
 
Tom Militano said:
Gixxer, mine is a floor model and it's not a JT33 taper. I have a new JT33 arbor and it doesn't fit. I've tried several different arbors, with no luck. I think it's a communist plot to drive me crazy. The chuck that came on it is a piece of junk, but it's gotten worse. I've got several brand new Jacobs Super Chucks 1/2" and 3/4" and need to know what the taper is for the drill press. I called Sears and the mental giant I talked to informed me that they quit using chucks. That isn't a joke, I'm serious. It's a shame you can't reach through the phone lines and choke some people.
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Oops, did not know it was a floor model. Once you find out what taper your drill is... Hey, did you go to sears.com and look at the PDF of the owners manual? But anyhow, after you figure out what it is, Grizzly has a bunch of adapters and such so you might be able to get an adapter to use a chuck you have already.

Anyhow, ok 1 1/2 is out of the question.
1hp...
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g7947

3/4hp...http://www.grizzly.com/products/g7944
 
Not knocking you guys who've gone through Ebay or want ads or have the highest-end gear and have tricked it out to high-performance... but I don't have the knowledge or patience to deal with that stuff. I see that other folks are sharing high-end tricks and tips with each other in this thread, that's great, I'm always glad to observe the really knowledegable people. That alone makes it worth starting the thread...

But, I'm not a machinist and never will be. I just want something basic, simple, and new with a warranty :) I don't want to f### around with auctions or shipping or someone else's cast-off and all that. I don't want or need 2-5 drill presses right now, I want one. I have zero interest in replacing motors, etc.

Imagine if you asked me for advice on a good guitar/amp/effects rig to start with... I could easily boggle your mind with options to pursue, trust me on that! Or I could tell you, "get what I've got, even though you don't know how or why to use it, it's the best." That wouldn't really help you much, would it?

Please don't think I'm ungrateful for all your input, gentlemen. It's just that I'm trying to keep it simple, so my brain doesn't explode and I end up spending more time on learning about machinery, than I do on practicing getting my grinds and holes straight.

Thank you all again!
 
GibsonFan, I was cruising around the local TruValue the other day and saw a nice Delta benchtop model, 1/2 inch capacity for about $120. Looked like a solid, well built unit with not much vertical play in the chuck. I would'nt mind having it. I'm pretty happy with my no name, no brand name floor model because it suits my needs. Whatever you get, if it suits your needs, it's good.
If you like mortised tangs, once you get a press, you could buy a couple different size forstner bits for thos nice flat bottomed holes. Connect the dots! :D What ever you decide, good luck! -Matt-
 
I went to Lowes and bought a Delta 12" drill press for $179, then all power tools were 15% off, then I had a $10 off coupon and finally I got a $25 rebate on it for a total of $128.17 Check there. The lowest speed though is 600 rpm, nothing has slowed it down yet. I was going to get the little HF one and decided not to because once you get a big vice on it there wasn't a lot of room left in between the table and bit to do bigger stuff, I got a machinists vice at HF for it, I think there is a $15 off coupon for it on the HF website.
 
I did a lot of research on this a few years ago. This is what I found out to be true:

All the presses are made in the SAME factory in China. The diffs are cosmetic on the different brands, (Delta, HF, Grizzly, etc) until you get to the big buck ones made in Europe or Canada. I don't know any made in the USA anymore, except really high dollar (thousands $).

That said, I looked for a real old USA made press for along time. No joy. I ended up with a HF floor model.I think it cost $150, on sale a couple years ago. Fully adjustable speed, 1/2 HP and is plenty if you use quality bits and proper speed. Mine has a round table (for metal work), some have square tables, etc. Other than that, my advise is:

1. buy the HF floor model on sale to save bench space. Put it on a base with wheels. makes it easy to use and store. ( I used 2 pieces of 3/4" ply laminated together and cheap swivel wheels from HF).

2. Buy a real good drill press vise. Not the cheap one, the heavy one that adjust in two planes. An American one is expensive, try and find used. OR buy the best one HF sells.

3. Buy a good set of AMerican made bits. You may try HF at first, to practice one, but later get the best you can afford. Do a little google here....

4. Learn to sharpen your bits on your belt/ or bench grinder with fine wheel. I've tried all the Drill doctors and jigs..........they are crap. A little instruction from a machinist and you'll do fine with a little practice. Drill only with a sharp bit. It's fun......I sharpen a bit in 4 seconds flat.

5. use a cutting fluid. You can buy commercial and clean up or just use bacon grease. A tiny bit on the end is all it takes. Water is OK, but it will rust your table...........

6. Practice a bit on mild steel. Learn to feel the bit coming through so you can lighten up and not tear out the hole. Or use a back plate of mild steel.

You'll spend about $300 on all this if you shop right. HTH
 
bodfish said:
4. Learn to sharpen your bits on your belt/ or bench grinder with fine wheel. I've tried all the Drill doctors and jigs..........they are crap. A little instruction from a machinist and you'll do fine with a little practice. Drill only with a sharp bit. It's fun......I sharpen a bit in 4 seconds flat.
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Thanks, I was going to ask about a Drill Doctor. I was kind of thinking it would be more $ than it's worth. I can probably find a drill sharpening tutorial somewhere :thumbup: Thanks for your other answers too.

One thing I have plenty of is drill size guages, not sure where the heck they all came from?!? :confused: :D
 
Gibson

The small drill press at the first link you posted will do much of what you need.

Especially if you drilled everything by hand, that will make a huge difference for you.
You will never regret it.

I am sceptical about the horsepower rating on import motors, but a stated ½ HP is better than the stated 1/3 than I have on my first drill press.
(Delta - smaller than the above and still useful, but table will flex if I put heavy pressure on it)

Spindle taper: MT #2 - is a good thing
This means that the spindle shaft is a number 2 Morse Taper
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morse_taper#Morse
The significance is that if you want to replace or upgrade the chuck to a precision or keyless chuck later you can with a simple standard part. Whack off, Whack on
(small drill bits used in folder making 0-80 screws… need a precision chuck to hold the very small bits. – chuck rated to “Zero” minimum size whereas this one goes as small as 7/64”)
(Small bits -tend to break if used in chucks with a bit of wobble – precision = no wobble)

The advice to go with a floor model is quite good. Bench space is always at a premium.
It is easier to find floor space versus bench space.

The other suggestion I would make is to purchase ViseGrip type holddown clamps
Harbour freight and Grizzly likely have knockoffs like these

http://www.justclamps.com/Graphics/drillpress_clamp200.gif

Clamp your material down to the flat table with flat scrap backing material (mdf board, micarta…)

If you leave this on the machine, they are very quick and you will use them.
There is a tendency to do a few quick holes without clamping, the drill will catch and spin.
You will try to catch the work piece. You will hurt yourself. (Ask me how I know)

The larger the hole, the slower you run the RPM speed. The speeds listed are fine.

Sharp bits are necessary
Take the extra money you saved, buy bits just for steel and keep them away from composites and general household use

As for needing more spindle travel depth for a through tang, you can work around that by:
Drill the 2” depth, stop the machine, clear chips out, put the drill back in the hole, raise the table, drill 2” depth…repeat
The key is having a drill bit with long enough flutes to clear chips from the full length of the hole in the material.
(Known as long series, extended series, from machine shop & good tool suppliers-thry will help you with good bits also)

I wouldn’t worry about wearing it out, unless you side-load the spindle bearings by feeding material into it sideways by using it as a milling machine to mill slots with an x y table
You won’t wear it out in your lifetime.

Steve
 
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