Drop point all around hunter and utility knife?

JM2,

I'm happy that you resurrected/updated this thread.

If you are up for an inexpensive experiment, I'd recommend you spend $15 on a Mora Companion. I've been beating on one this summer and it's easily the best woodworking and best all around knife I've used. By a long shot. Not even close. Period.


I've concluded that thin hollow grinds, like that the Bucks and most Cases knives are excellent for processing meat but horrible for working with wood. They are very thin behind the edge so they slice meat well and are easily touched up. But (for me) wood working puts a lot of lateral stress on a blade and, like you, I find hollow grind blades to dull fast when working with wood. Related, I find the edge angle and "bite" of a hollow grind to be very hard to control compared to a flat, or better a convex or scandi ground blade.

The Mora Companion is a very thin scandi grind. It is thin enough that it can be touched up with a simple microbevel very easily. Like all convex, sabre and scandi ground blades (and to a lesser extent, flat ground knives) eventually you need to reprofile the Moras as you wear the cutting apex back into the thicker part of the blade. I do that on a combination of bench stones and a guided rod system.

I find convex/sabre/scandi grind blades better for wood in 2 big ways. First, they are thicker behind the edge and much more resistant to rolling an edge. The edge last longer.

Second, they are easier for me to control the cutting angle and "bite" of the blade. I can rip off nice curls so much easier with these types of blades. Hollow grinds are (for me) awful and flat ground blades are tolerable but not as good.

Second thing to mention about the Mora Companion is the ugly but incredibly shaped handle. I've not found a wood working grip that produces a hot spot with it. In fact, I've not found a grip where the Companion simply isn't the nicest feeling handle I've ever used. It's stunningly good.

I also have a thicker Companion HD which has a more pronounced hand swell that offers a bit more control on hard straight cuts. But it's just tick less versatile.

Last thing to crow about the Companion is the ugly but functional plastic sheath. It's made for a working situation. It goes on the belt easily, stays put securely and comes off easily. Hold the knife secure enough for work and easy in/easy out. I wouldn't rely on it for hunting and busting through brush without an additional cord lock. But for working, it's the bomb.

FT10258a.jpg


Not trying to talk you out of a ESEE, but for $15, the Mora is something to try just for comparisons sake. It's really blown me away this summer.
 
While you are looking at ESEE give their Gibson Camplore JG3 a serious consideration.

It is a little more nimble and trim than the ESEE 3 and I think the blade shape would be more to your liking when working in wood. I find the blade design to be a perfect all around user.

Don't be put off by the unusual handle design. It looks like it would be uncomfortable but I found that I love it.
 
Thanks Pinnah.

I have used mora knives before, and i like them. Now that you mention it, i too find its easier to control a flat or scandi grind over a hollow ground in woodwork.
I've never handled the model you suggest, but i might give it a serious look. If nothing else, for around the shop.

StrayRound. I will give that a look. Thanks for the suggestion.

Woodwork is not the primary purpose of the new knife. It will be general purpose carry knife. It will be just as likely to do kitchen chores or cut a piece of leather or rope.

I like the drop point a lot better than the clip point for general use. I have an uncle henry 153, carbon steel blade, right now. Its okay, but its a touch large for me to carry all the time. I'd like something shorter, and thinner. But not so small that if i was lost with only my knife id wish it was larger.
 
Definitely give a look at Hess knives. Traditional, classic designs with very well treated 1095 steel.
 
Condor Kephart runs about twice the price of the Mora Companion, but it's more traditional in appearance and has a flat grind. Handles well.

On the bottom in this photo:
tumblr_nrg2wshVY91r4zf5xo1_1280.jpg


At right in this one:
tumblr_n7xtwt3yjU1r4zf5xo1_1280.jpg


(This was a bake-off, testing blades on corn for dinner. It turned out that a new factory edge on the Buck 110 cut better than the cleaver, the China-Schrade 51OT, or the Condor — but the also-rans were all quite good. (Need to learn better sharpening.)

And for corn tonight, I used this Cattaraugus 225Q (original sheath on top, replica by Harry Savage at bottom).
tumblr_nu0ml9FkAi1r4zf5xo4_1280.jpg


Ker-THUNKKK! No problems whatever.
 
Steingass makes a nice knife. I also like Tim Hartman who made this one for me. He's out of NM and very reasonable.
KnifeHunter187LLHunter3CPM154LOGOSIDE.jpg
 
I will tell you from experience, Hess Knives are worth it. Dressed a deer with my Muley with no problem. The knife is still sharp as a razor.
 
Condor Kephart runs about twice the price of the Mora Companion, but it's more traditional in appearance and has a flat grind. Handles well.

On the bottom in this photo:
tumblr_nrg2wshVY91r4zf5xo1_1280.jpg


At right in this one:
tumblr_n7xtwt3yjU1r4zf5xo1_1280.jpg


(This was a bake-off, testing blades on corn for dinner. It turned out that a new factory edge on the Buck 110 cut better than the cleaver, the China-Schrade 51OT, or the Condor — but the also-rans were all quite good. (Need to learn better sharpening.)

And for corn tonight, I used this Cattaraugus 225Q (original sheath on top, replica by Harry Savage at bottom).
tumblr_nu0ml9FkAi1r4zf5xo4_1280.jpg


Ker-THUNKKK! No problems whatever.

Good stuff!!!! :thumbup::thumbup: Harry does a good job on sheaths!!! He is going to start one for my Warner-Moran Bowie this week. :)

Like that Condor!! :thumbup:
 
just repeating the Hess knives recommendation, 1095 steel, a variety of models, though mostly convex ground, there are a few hollow ground knives.
 
Good stuff!!!! :thumbup::thumbup: Harry does a good job on sheaths!!! He is going to start one for my Warner-Moran Bowie this week. :) Like that Condor!! :thumbup:

The sheath is exactly what I wanted. The knife is in outstanding condition, but the sheath is a 70+ year old veteran that's earned its rest. Because the original sheath as a bit thin in my view (although obviously it survived all that both it and the knife have gone through), I asked him if he could reproduce the 225Q pattern sheath, but to make it out of slightly thicker leather. Which he did, and it's excellent.

Back to knives — there really are a lot of low-end-ish fixed-blade knives that provide good to excellent usability and are "cutting way above their price," so to speak. Well worth checking around. And of course, the more ample the budget, the wider the selection.
 
Well I’ll update. My house burnt down right after I started this thread 6 years ago. But I’ve been acquiring knives of similar style to my liking. I’ve been reading and done a lot of soul searching.



After pondering it all I’ve made some changes. I’m actively using DMT diamond stones in addition to my Arkansas stones. (I lost all my stones in the fire and have acquired a few others now but can’t find another fine to suit me). So that means my world is opened up to steels that can’t be sharpened on traditional stone. So I’m thinking about a buck 192 with upgraded steel at some point.

I am in love with my current 192.

And I’ve been experimenting with changing my sharpening angle. At the time of original post I was going too shallow. I was set in my ways. I wanted all knives to conform to my sharpening style. Now I see that I can sharpen each knife best as an individual, taking into account its steel and intended use. Not going as fine on some, and not as low of an angle.

And now I’m researching stropping. I’ve always stropped to a degree, mostly using untreated leather, but I didn’t think anything about it. Sometimes it gave good results and sometimes dulled the knife from where it was.

I learned how to sharpen as a kid and I refined a technique but it put me in a rigid state. If a knife didn’t conform to my sharpening ways I couldn’t abide with it.

But now, after lots of reading here, I’ve seen that my orneriness has closed the door to many great knives. So, I’ve begun to expand my horizons.

I’ve decided I like stainless for its ease of maintenance. It’s not that it is better or worse than 1095, it’s just different.

So there has been some changes from my previous opinions and I want to thank all here on bladeforums for helping me progress. I’m having a renewed interest in knives in no small part because of reading here and learning some things that now seem simple but eluded me before.
 
So sorry to read about your home and belongings, but happy to hear that you are liking the Buck 192 and looking at it again.

I have been a Buck fanboy since the late sixties when I bought a 118. It had 440C steel and it took me a long time to learn to sharpen it and was still difficult with the stones I used then.

Sharpening styles, methods, and materials make a big difference. I now use an Edge Pro Apex.

I really like the Vanguard and have hoped to be able to use the Cabela's Alaskan Guide version I have with S30V with the now discontinued DLC coated blade. They are using Cerakote now and I don't recommend/like it. It's just hard for me to leave my 118 and use something else.

Best wishes on your knife and sharpening journey.
 
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