Drop Point Blades???

MWallace said:
Hey guys, don't go digging up a pics.....I know who to ask if I run into problems. I'm more interested in changing out scales (inlays) than switching out blades. To make the 110 with swappable inlays it seems the SS pin should be behind the scales rather than through them....any thoughts on that?
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:cool:...To make 'em "swappable" that would be about the only way to go...Unless you used a corby type rivet to have an exposed rocker...I use headless rocker rivets that have a very thin head on one side and a hollow on the other...It's made for hidden rocker scales...:cool:
 
DarrylS said:
:cool:...To make 'em "swappable" that would be about the only way to go...Unless you used a corby type rivet to have an exposed rocker...I use headless rocker rivets that have a very thin head on one side and a hollow on the other...It's made for hidden rocker scales...:cool:
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Darryl, I can't quite picture it, but when I get closer (gotta find a beater) I'll check back in with you. Thanks, Mike

PS...I found this, not the same, but similar perhaps....no....torx heads too big....:confused:

pivotpin.jpg
 
MWallace said:
Darryl, I can't quite picture it, but when I get closer (gotta find a beater) I'll check back in with you. Thanks, Mike

PS...I found this, not the same, but similar perhaps....no....torx heads too big....:confused:
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:cool:...What's the diameter of the bearing surface there?...( the part that the rocker would pivot on )...You're looking at .130 hole or so in the rocker bar... What's the torx head diameter? The torx heads can be turned down if too big....:cool:
 
DarrylS said:
:cool:...What's the diameter of the bearing surface there?...( the part that the rocker would pivot on )...You're looking at .130 hole or so in the rocker bar... What's the torx head diameter? The torx heads can be turned down if too big....:cool:
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Pivot Diameter = 5mm or .195
Head Diameter = .250
Barrel Length = .370
Pivot Screw = T-8

I found this on Darrel Ralph's site, KnifeKits.com, here's a link to his pivot pins. There may be one on the page that's closer to what you're using.
 
:cool:...hmmm...These View attachment 103810 might work if ya got rid of the bushings and opened up the rocker hole to .190 or so. It looks like there'd be enough room to open it...Trax is really the guy to walk ya through this Mike. I've never made up a 110 or 112 with changeable scales. He has the imagination of a Science Fiction writer sometimes...LOL...:p
 
Yeah, I don't even have a 110 I'm ready to tear into yet. I've got quite a bit of nice scale material tho'. I'll keep my eyes peeled for a 110 deal and check in then.
Thanks Darryl...:D
 
:cool:...I tend to fly by the seat of my pants. I try stuff til it works. I can see in my mind how I'd work with those corby rivets to make 'em work as good pivots. It would involve turning the threaded sleeve to get closer to the .130 dimension and shortening the screws and turning the heads to approximate the peened rivet size...lotsa stuff that sounds complicated but in actuality it's just "mangling"...LOL...You could use 'em to fasten the detachable scales as well I think...Nope...They won't work there...Now ya got me thinkin' Mike...:eek:...:p
 
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I'm with you Darryl....
If the intent is not to change the blade, just the scales, I'm thinking I could leave the bolsters intact. Remove the scale and pivot pins. Replace the pivot pin with whatever low profile rivet/bolt that works, then tap the liners, countersink the scales, and use some button head torx screws to attach the new ones.....Am I on the right track?
 
MWallace said:
I'm with you Darryl....
If the intent is not to change the blade, just the scales, I'm thinking I could leave the bolsters intact. Remove the scale and pivot pins. Replace the pivot pin with whatever low profile rivet/bolt that works, then tap the liners, countersink the scales, and use some button head torx screws to attach the new ones.....Am I on the right track?
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:cool:...Unless they've changed the scale rivets without tellin' us...:eek:... they won't be easy to remove without taking the knife apart anyway. The rivets that I'm aware of are actually pushed through the scale and liner. The rivet itself is hollowed out on the inside and peened over into indents, or chamfers, cut into the liners. It can be done but you'll end up tryin' to pick out the rivet body through the gap between the liners. By the way some of those scales are also attached with glue that could bond a snowplow to a truck...LOL...:p
 
Yeah....I'm looking, with the magnifying glass, between the liners and I see what you're saying. The brass pins appear to be flared into a chamfered hole on the back side of the liners. What the hey was Buck thinking, oh yeah....they didn't want them to come off....:thumbup:
 
MWallace said:
What the hey was Buck thinking...
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They were thinking of how to utilize untrained labor in their assembly line...With the hollow rivets flared into the inner chamfered pockets, they could use a tool like a paper punch and just assemble the scales to the liners with minimal skills involved... :D

"Batch manufacturing"...Have the workers assemble a couple thousand scale/liner assemblies, then go on to the next task...

I haven't come across any of the newer 110's using the famous glue...(no glue at all, in fact)...but the older slab-sided 110's will require chipping the wood off...after you remove the rivets... :rolleyes:

After the first disassembly or two, you'll discover it's really pretty easy...but you will have a large collection of spare parts... :p
 
chickentrax said:
I haven't come across any of the newer 110's using the famous glue...(no glue at all, in fact)...but the older slab-sided 110's will require chipping the wood off...after you remove the rivets... :rolleyes:
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You can often remove scales that have been glued on by soaking the entire knife in acetone for a while (may take a day or two). Acetone is readily available commercially at a number of stores, including Wally World, in the paint department. It is highly volatile, so you need to use a closed container; also, it is highly flammable, so you need to be careful with that aspect as well. Leroy Remer frequently employs this method.

Edit: Acetone will not damage the metal, but may damage certain types of handle materials.
 
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