Drop point WIP

Wow, thanks for your thoughtful and kind remarks about my blade, guys. It really means something coming from talented craftsmen such as yourselves... You're right, Josh, I had originally even though of putting in a pattern of many decorative pins and/or some spacers but after seeing that piece of koa I decided not to gild the lily and let the wood speak for itself. (It's more eloquent than I, anyway.) A little wire inlay would probably look great, but despite it's superficial similarity to curly maple I believe koa is not very suitable to the technique necessary. Josh, Dave, 69, you gonna post some soon? Looking forward to it...
 
Hello Salem,

Just ran across this thread. Must have missed it earlier... Wow, that turned out fantastic. Nice WIP and excellent job! Love everything about it... :thumbup::cool:

Eric
 
Salem I gotta say, I'm not going to have anything to show here for at least a month or so. I'm working on a very difficult (for me) project right now, and assuming the FUF doesn't influence me too much maybe I'll post that one when it's done. Or not. I'm not feeling particularly confident right now, particularly given the level of work that's been posted here lately. ;) I'm much happier looking all you guy's fine work than my own sophomoric efforts, for sure.
 
Salem,
It is gonna be awhile before I have another knife to post. I've been working on an Ivory scrimshaw that I should have finished up this weekend so I will be putting that up for comments once finished.

I do have a small blade ground but had poor handle dimensions so now I'm trying to decide weather to make it a simplified edc style utility knife or go hidden/mortised tang and open up my handle options. Thinking about keeping it simple with Buckeye Burl from Burl Source and no bolsters.

Also got a small damascus blank profiled and working up the courage to put it to the grinder, LOL. It's hidden tang and I definatly want to combine this blade with the burl from burl source.

Time to work has been scarce recently with a 15 month old so I basically have to choose between seeing my wife for a few hours after dinner or heading out to the shop but I'm working on my balance of time. We've started talking about putting my son in Montessory (SP) school in 3 or 4 months which will give me time to focus on making knives and developing my skills basically full time. In the mean time I have been reading and watching as much learning material as I can get my hands on and researching a PID controlled forge build thats going to be happening soon. I've also been designing knives in my sketch book on a pretty regular basis and visiting my mentor once a week or so.

You probably didn't want the entire life story but I get BORED during the day while watching my son, LOL

Again Great Knife ! -Josh
 
Salem,

I just glued up the handle on a knife I'm working on for a friend, my first official knife order. I might post a pic of it when it's done but I already know it won't be as nice at that one. :)
 
OK vorpalknives, love the knife! Your work is already way ahead of mine but I have got to ask the question. I understand the square shoulder is for the bolster to fit.
Now here is my question and please don't take this wrong. Shouldn't the tang be rounded in after the bolster area, instead of squared off?
My understanding has always been that anytime you square off the blade into the tang it makes for a weak spot on the tang.
Please excuse my crude drawings I borrowed your picture below to to try illustrate my question I am asking.
. [IMG said:
picture.php
[/IMG]
Your orginonal picture of the knife blank.


Droppointhunter.jpg

If I am understanding correctly by squaring at the point of the dotted line in area 2. allows for apoint where side pressure will make a potential weak area or a snap point!
Click to expand...
Droppointknife.jpg


In area 1. you rounded back in to the ricasso for strength as well as the gouge/plunge cut is rounded into the ricasso which is suppose to help achive strength at that point. In area 2. where you squared into the tang, that is the point I am questoning.
Again please don't take this as critical as I am not criticizing your work because the knife is excellent! Rather I am mearly asking a question that jumped out at me the minute I saw the knife blank. After all that's how we all learn, and I am still learning!!!!!!!!
 
Good eye, Dixieblade. Good question, too. I've gotta say, at point # "1" I generally don't round that transition for reasons of strength... If I left the ricasso deeper, i.e. not a dropped edge but straight through to the guard like a Dick Faust, or even if I cut a little choil, the strength would still be good. I drop the edge and round that off for aesthetic reasons and better handling.

The area of point # "2" should be rounded off, however, and I did leave it a little square. I will say that since this knife will be a personal carrier, I am gonna be pissed at myself if I ever abuse it in a bad enough fashion for that shoulder to become a problem. I anticipate gutting, skinning, whittling, maybe eating camp food or cutting rope with it. I probably won't use it as a can opener, hatchet, screwdriver, throwing knife, prybar, or chisel. If it does break, I will kick myself for being dumb enough to use it as such. If it breaks while I am dressing a deer, I'll eat my hat!

There are plenty of guys out there that would cry foul that I didn't eliminate a possible stress riser. I don't disagree, either... but hell, you don't split firewood with a straight razor.

Thank you sir, for your excellent question and your interest. I take no offense, I can see that you have a good understanding of knife design!

P.S. Dave, your work is not "sophomoric." Try posting that scagel style piece from your site... Josh, not at all. I'm glad to get more of an idea of who you are and how your life is going. Good luck, and Montessori is a good choice IMHO. 69, can't wait to see that post. Might be better than mine! Efleming, how's that press, you lucky bastard?
 
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Vorpalknives thanks for the answer and thanks for not taking offense. It was a serious question on my part and although I don't always spit out what I am trying to say with the correct terminology I have been paying attention. :thumbup:
Oh by the way I have been talking with another newbie, like myself on another forum about his tang breaking of his new machette. I suspect it may be a similar squared off problem. And I think he may have been trying to split firewood (metiforically speaking). I am still waiting for pics and more info on his problem.
By the way your fit and finish is great!!!!!!!!! :cool:
 
Dixie, your question is a good one. Vorpal, your answer is valid.

If it was a combat knife or chopper or survival knife with a 7"+ blade, I would be really picky about the squared tang shoulders. As Vorpal said, on a hunter or EDC it's probably not much to worry about.

Having said that, I radius the tang "junction" even on my smaller hidden-tang knives because I'm just paranoid. :o
 
Better safe than sorry, for sure. For the record, I usually radius that area, too. Should have known some sharp eyes would see that one!
 
Cool, and pretty much the same way I solder mine, what few I solder anymore, try for the solderless fit, but don't allways achieve it.

That wood is awsome, will have to try it some time.
 
The pic you are looking at isn't exactly the way this knife looked before soldering . We used a 1/4 carbide endmill and radiused the tang and leveled the landings for the bolster to fit up nice and flat before we soldered,that also helped clean up the heat treat scale in that area easily without any hand sanding . We didn't however roll the tang at the transition point. I did scotchbrite the sharp corners off though. This knife is 5/32 thick S30-V,the rabett tang is quite substantial and I am very confident this knife can handle whatever abuse Salem decides to put it through and never let him down.
 
You couldnt have a better guy helping you out Salem... Ken is DA MAN!! One of these days I will actually get on a plane to go hang out with him..;)
 
Ken Onion IS da man!

Gee, now that I see you are on here, Ken, thanks for backing me up. I felt like Dixieblade had a point, but those corners are pretty smooth inside and it's pretty solid allover. Just didn't want to sound like I was making a bunch of excuses! See you Tuesday, maybe...
 
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Thanks Trace! Get your ass over here and lets build something crazy. Trace has mad skills!

Salem is doing real good , He's a natural at the grinder.
 
KenOnion said:
... We didn't however roll the tang at the transition point. I did scotchbrite the sharp corners off though.
Click to expand...

May I ask why you knocked the sharp edges off the tang? Is that "just" to allow more surface area for the adhesive to stick to, or does it affect the overall strength of the steel itself?

I'm really paranoid about possible points of failure, and hope to learn the details of how a truly reliable knife is made.

Messr's Onion and Rinaldi, I respect your work very much. I'm not being contrary, just picking your brains. :)
 
KenOnion said:
Thanks Trace! Get your ass over here and lets build something crazy. Trace has mad skills!

Salem is doing real good , He's a natural at the grinder.
Click to expand...

You got it Kahuna... Im glad you called, it was great yackin with ya last night.. One day we will put our heads together in YOUR shop and make Exacalibur..:thumbup::cool::D
 
James_Terrio said:
May I ask why you knocked the sharp edges off the tang? Is that "just" to allow more surface area for the adhesive to stick to, or does it affect the overall strength of the steel itself?

I'm really paranoid about possible points of failure, and hope to learn the details of how a truly reliable knife is made.

Messr's Onion and Rinaldi, I respect your work very much. I'm not being contrary, just picking your brains. :)
Click to expand...


Me personally I dont like ANY sharp edges other than the cutting edge... Sharp corners are where failures are born...;)
 
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