Dry Or Oiled?

A

agduffy6

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Feb 5, 2014
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I saw somewhere else on the forums someone said their benchmades run better without oil and I tried this with my Mini-Grip and it also runs better dry. So, do your BM's run better oiled or dry?
 
I don't like my knives swimming in oil but I don't like them bone dry either. I put one small drop of Slip 2000 at the pivot and one at the Axis bar. Once worked in the knife feels very smooth and it leaves a light coating to help protect from corrosion and wear. I've never had a problem with attracting dirt over time or gumming up the action, if anything the opposite.

I think one problem people have is over lubricating. A little goes a long way and you don't have to reapply very often, just because it doesn't look wet doesn't mean there isn't a light coating on the parts. I usually only reapply if it's been a very long time or after I wash a filthy knife with hot soapy water removing any and all lubrication.
 
A drop of mineral oil or 3-in-one oil on each side of the pivot about once a month or every few months. And I mean a tiny drop that I put on a toothpick and drop into each side.
 
Nano Oil or WeaponShield and my knives run smoother than anything else, especially smoother than dry.
 
I oil mine. I'm in the camp that if it's mechanical then oil is a good thing.
 
A dry lube that wouldn't attract lint like Tuf-Glide, used sparingly on the pivot washers is my ticket. If I use the stuff only a drop or two is all. I've been using the same small bottle for years and it's still half full.
 
I put a big drop of light oil, like CLP, in each side of the pivot. After working the action a few times, I make sure that the oil made its way back to the omega springs and around the axis lock. If it didn't, another drop in each side, I go out of my way to make sure that axis springs stay oiled.
 
I oil all my knives with Break-Free CLP. Provides great lubrication and excellent corrosion prevention. I apply, let sit and then wipe off the excess. The rest will evaporate but it leaves a protective film that continues to add to function enchainment and corrosion prevention.

I haven't noticed it attracting any more or less pocket lint or dirt then knives I haven't oiled.

when it comes to anything mechanical with metal parts that rub or cam against one another, not to mention rust, a quality lubricant with good boundary qualities significantly reduces wear over time, enhances function and extends the life of the metal, parts and mechanisms.

All the best!
 
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These are not Formula 1 engines...they probably do not need oil, but these are tools with moving parts and they are not disposable purchases for most of us, so why would you not use some lubricant?

Some people use very exotic lubes. There's no real reason to do so, other than that it makes you feel better about how you're caring for the knife. Anything that doesn't polymerize is fine. I generally use Tri-Flow or CLP except for frame locks, which I lube with CRK grease.

I used to use Tuf-Glide but don't any more. It attracted and held a large amount of grit, dirt and lint in the knife. The "oilier," wet products don't do that anywhere near as much. Tuf-Glide is a superior rust preventative and I continue to use it on non-stainless blades, but not on moving parts.
 
OIL IT, or it WILL get "sticky". I overlube my BM 2750 with froglube...and it runs great..until the omega spring broke. :mad: I am expecting it back sooner or later... BTW not trying to high jack the thread, but how long is the usual wait time?
 
JNewell said:
These are not Formula 1 engines...they probably do not need oil, but these are tools with moving parts and they are not disposable purchases for most of us, so why would you not use some lubricant?
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They do need lubricant, not for lubrication alone but heat dissipation. May be the pats are coted with Nickel Boron, but the tolerance is still to tight. The engine doesn't even move without heating oil and block to operating temperature. If you stall the engine, you virtually trash it. Not intended to be "disposable" purchase, but don't have much choice. They wear down quickly.

Some people use very exotic lubes. There's no real reason to do so, other than that it makes you feel better about how you're caring for the knife. Anything that doesn't polymerize is fine. I generally use Tri-Flow or CLP except for frame locks, which I lube with CRK grease.
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I use Weapon lube, because it is tested and designed for high temperature and work within tight tolerance for accuracy. Any high tolerance mechanical device can benefit from this. I happens to have EWL handy and it penetrate steel surface to be a lubricant under wide range of temperature and pressure, why not use it. Is it absolutely need for everyone? No. You can run a car with quote short of oil too.

I used to use Tuf-Glide but don't any more. It attracted and held a large amount of grit, dirt and lint in the knife. The "oilier," wet products don't do that anywhere near as much. Tuf-Glide is a superior rust preventative and I continue to use it on non-stainless blades, but not on moving parts.
Click to expand...

EWL is also penetrating rust inhibiter. It is made for SMG chamber and bolt. Do I need for my carbine and pistol? No, but it helps if you have it around your house. When you pay $400 per knife, why not use something in best quality?
 
I'm the one that runs dry. If anything, I put a tiny drop on the part of the blade that the Axis bar rides on. I find this allows me to go a good long while between tear-down cleanings.
 
I use tetracycline fun grease in my grips and min grips. After I polish the internals(with glitz), I apply a small amount tetra and spread thin with a q tip under my o springs and each side of the blade in between the washers. After that, nothing except compressed air to blow out the pocket lint.
Broke down and cleaned once every 6 months or so, sooner if it's, carried daily. Works good for me. It may be over kill, but I fiddling with my knives.
 
On a full teardown, a good wipe down of the blade with Ballistol is all I need to keep everything slick.
 
MobileFireLord said:
They do need lubricant, not for lubrication alone but heat dissipation. May be the pats are coted with Nickel Boron, but the tolerance is still to tight. The engine doesn't even move without heating oil and block to operating temperature. If you stall the engine, you virtually trash it. Not intended to be "disposable" purchase, but don't have much choice. They wear down quickly.
Click to expand...

Coming back to this a little late. I assume you're talking about the engines, not the knives, right? ;)
 
JNewell said:
Coming back to this a little late. I assume you're talking about the engines, not the knives, right? ;)
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In your reference of Formula 1 engines, yup. ;)

Your other reference to Teflon product can be residue building.

So far, Eezox and EWL is my choice of wide range lubricant and rust inhibiter. Eezox remains dry and it can displaces water. EWL coat the surface and not toxic.
 
I use Blue Lube usually. But I clean before with a couple of fizzs with Wd-40.
I also use Mobil 1 Engin Oil extensively: it cleans, protects and lube fantastically, if you like wetter lubeing. I use it also for matteing my knives... and due it's formulation, following a suggestion of an old knifemaker, it works great.

Cheers
 
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