Dumb steel question

I say buy some cheap steel to practice on. The reality of it (unless you have some really MAD SKILLZ) is that you're gonna end up making something that sorta kinda resembles a knife and maybe not. Take your time and don't be afraid to make a million passes on the grinder if you need to. The second you think that you can do it in 2 seconds is when someone goes wrong and you're now left with a paper weight. I'd suggest maybe some 1095 which is rather cheap compared to precision ground tool steel. You can pretty much do stock removal with any belt sander/grinder. You're probably going to have to get the steel to atleast 1500' degrees to harden it depending on the steel you use. Good luck and be patient with yourself.
 
First of all, thanks again to everyone for their great and generous advice!

Here is an update:

-I placed an order for a bar of 5160 from McMaster-Carr (.25x3x6ft) for ~$40 next day delivery...I couldn't pass that up!

-I also found a local source of in-stock O-1, Industrial Metal Supply in Phoenix. It's quite a bit more expensive, so I'll have to research to see if they are reasonable or not (1/8x2.5x36 is $56 and 1/4x3x36 is $88)

-My accountant's husband does custom metal work, and I learned that forging is part of his repertoire. He said that in a few weeks I could come watch him work!!!

-I own and have read most of the $50 Knife Shop book, and quite a few of the sticky links. I'm anxious to start filing and grinding!
 
P J 234 said:
First of all, thanks again to everyone for their great and generous advice!

Here is an update:

-I placed an order for a bar of 5160 from McMaster-Carr (.25x3x6ft) for ~$40 next day delivery...I couldn't pass that up!

-I also found a local source of in-stock O-1, Industrial Metal Supply in Phoenix. It's quite a bit more expensive, so I'll have to research to see if they are reasonable or not (1/8x2.5x36 is $56 and 1/4x3x36 is $88)

-My accountant's husband does custom metal work, and I learned that forging is part of his repertoire. He said that in a few weeks I could come watch him work!!!


-I own and have read most of the $50 Knife Shop book, and quite a few of the sticky links. I'm anxious to start filing and grinding!
Click to expand...

Once you have your first blade show pictures!

Work safe

-page
 
P J 234 said:
First of all, thanks again to everyone for their great and generous advice!

Here is an update:

-I placed an order for a bar of 5160 from McMaster-Carr (.25x3x6ft) for ~$40 next day delivery...I couldn't pass that up!

-I also found a local source of in-stock O-1, Industrial Metal Supply in Phoenix. It's quite a bit more expensive, so I'll have to research to see if they are reasonable or not (1/8x2.5x36 is $56 and 1/4x3x36 is $88)

-My accountant's husband does custom metal work, and I learned that forging is part of his repertoire. He said that in a few weeks I could come watch him work!!!

-I own and have read most of the $50 Knife Shop book, and quite a few of the sticky links. I'm anxious to start filing and grinding!
Click to expand...

If you're not in some crazy hurry, don't buy it from IMS Metals. Way overpriced. buy it online from www.flatground.com

1/8x2.5x36 = $32.38

1/4x3x36 = $50.89

Shipping might be 10 bucks total for both pieces and more. You might not even have to pay tax! (you'll have to check on this)

www.flatground.com

They ship out very quickly!
 
OK, I received my bar of 5160 from McMaster-Carr (8644T13 5160 Spring Steel Rectangular Bar .250" Thick, 3" Width, 6' Length) and started following the instructions here: http://hossom.com/tutorial/jonesy/

I freehand drew a design on paper that surprisingly I think is pretty cool for a first try! I traced it from paper to steel, and started drilling around it as shown in the above link. The first 1/4" hole drilled nicely, then the second stopped midway and wasn't cutting. Switched to a new spot, wouldn't bite at all. Different drill bit, same problem...smaller drill bit for a pilot hole...same problem.

Is it possible the steel I received is not annealed completely, or am I hardening it by drilling without using some sort of cutting oil? Perhaps I've quickly dulled all of the bits, again because of no lubricant?

I realize this is an even dumber question than the first, so please go easy on a newbie; I'm just a dumb desk jockey and don't have any experience with this stuff! I'm grateful for any advice on what might be happening.
 
Are you punching the spot where you're drilling? It helps the bit to bite in and not wobble. You could be heating it by drilling but doubtful that drilling would be able to heat up an entire bar.
 
P J 234 said:
The first 1/4" hole drilled nicely, then the second stopped midway and wasn't cutting. Switched to a new spot, wouldn't bite at all. Different drill bit, same problem...smaller drill bit for a pilot hole...same problem.

Is it possible the steel I received is not annealed completely, or am I hardening it by drilling without using some sort of cutting oil? Perhaps I've quickly dulled all of the bits, again because of no lubricant?

I realize this is an even dumber question than the first, so please go easy on a newbie; I'm just a dumb desk jockey and don't have any experience with this stuff! I'm grateful for any advice on what might be happening.
Click to expand...

You using a drill press or hand drill? Use a Slow speed and use cutting oil if you have any. If your drill only has one speed stop often clean the hole of debris,and lubricate with a light oil. You may be dulling the bits, I do not think 5160 work hardens, but I am not sure about that.
Be very careful as success breeds a stronger addiction
 
Definately use a cutting/drilling oil. Makes a huge difference. I've never had problems with 1/4" bits, but I have a heck of a time getting through with a 1/2" or bigger bit even with pilot holes. I use cobalt or Ti bits with lots of oil and frequent stops to allow the steel/bit to cool.

--nathan
 
1/4 inch HSS drill should be run at 800rpm MAX in 5160. Some drill presses will not go that low. Also 5160 is hot rolled and annealed. The surface scale can wipe out a bit in a heart beat. Plenty of cutting oil. If the chips turn color slow down the rpm and ease up on the pressure.
 
Thanks guys! Using a hand drill, and the first hole went beautifully with my battery dying right as I punched through (possibly keeping the RPMs down?). Changed batteries, and started the second hole which is when everything stopped working. Different bits, smaller bits, punching the spot, etc. all had the same effect of the bit just spinning and not cutting anything.

I'll get some fresh bits and oil, and run the drill slower. Hopefully that will take care of it.

Any special care I need to take when I get to the hacksaw and files?
 
I'm not familiar with 5160 yet as I just picked mine up yesterday, but first impressions,
never drill steel without oil, you will ruin bits, and possibly work harden/spot harden your hole
try a fresh hole with a fresh good quality bit (not harborfreight crap, at least sears or better) in a centerpunch divot with some oil
I just use cheap 20weight oil(use a reasonable amount, keep it wet)and you should be fine

-Page
 
If you soak that 5160 in vinegar overnight it will eat off the scale. The scale is what is killing your bit.

You also need to use a cutting fluid and drill at a slow speed with even pressure, which is very difficult with a hand-drill.

Just for my curiosity, why are you starting with such huge steel? 1/4 X 3 is ginormous. For a first, stock removal knife, I recommend 1/8" thickness X 1 - 1-1/4" width.

A 3" wide piece of steel would be a lot to tackle with all of the tools I have in my shop!

Good luck with it :)
 
NickWheeler said:
If you soak that 5160 in vinegar overnight it will eat off the scale. The scale is what is killing your bit.

You also need to use a cutting fluid and drill at a slow speed with even pressure, which is very difficult with a hand-drill.

Just for my curiosity, why are you starting with such huge steel? 1/4 X 3 is ginormous. For a first, stock removal knife, I recommend 1/8" thickness X 1 - 1-1/4" width.

A 3" wide piece of steel would be a lot to tackle with all of the tools I have in my shop!

Good luck with it :)
Click to expand...

I suppose because I don't know any better! It's also I believe similar to what's used in the tutorial link I posted before.

Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a whirl and hopefully I can make it work.
 
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