EDC on the belt - no restrictions!

Thanks again guys and especially LMT66 for posting up that photo most helpful.

I actually spent the last hour using the search box looking at Boss Street vs CABS, basically comparing thickness vs edge, strength vs cutting.

I watched a video of Jankerson, sorry if I misspelled his name, using the .22 Boss Street to cut normal EDC things and the thick blade seemed to do well.
 
I was thinking about what you said you do for a living and something crossed my mind.

How much of a factor is a very secure grip under any conditions to you? I will explain why I ask that and it is not to convince you which knife to get so much as help you know your options. Sometimes you have to access something in a hurry and you never know what the circumstances are going to be at that time. Your hands may be wet with sweat, water, blood, etc when you need a knife most so "grippy" is good. The respirene-c handles are the grippiest of all the Busse knives I have used especially under those non-normal conditions. The res-c handles are also a very nice size and shape and also much lighter on the belt than the similar sized BOSS Street.

That being said you might want to research the Scrapper 5 LE (fairly easy to find) or the Street Scrapper 4 (much harder to find) Basic 3 or 5 (very hard to find) or INFIcoot all of which are INFI.

Both of the Scrappers are pictured at the bottom left of this pic. If the handle is the only thing showing from the sheath they are a little less of an attention grabber as well. ;)

2eoy460.jpg
 
AZTimT, you make an interesting point. I would say 99 percent of the time I know when things will be operational but there is always that one percent. When I know. I have gloves on which are designed to aid my grip, be it on my gun or knife. Actually it was your picture and wearing gloves that started me thinking about front pocket carry. There have been times that I've "missed" a fluid opening with my pocket knife. The best I can tell is the gloves caused some drag on the blade. When your done with your knife how do you get it back in the sheath, can you find it in your pocket without taking it out of the pocket?
Thanks for taking the time to give my situation so much thought, I'll keep my eyes open for a scrapper 5.
 
EVERY time you leave the house??? How many miniature zombies are there in AZ???? ;)

Seriously - what's the logic behind 2 blades? Just curious.

not even kidding - I carry three o_o

Boss jack = wood processing and 'safety' tool for prybar or whatever. also great fighter where I would not have expected it to be.
Boss street = food prep
kershaw chill = box cutter/sheeple.

The boss jack proto is so rediculously overbuilt that it's not fun to use it for anything but splitting wood. It'll do whatever you want it to, but with more effort. The Boss street is awesome but it's really short for processing any peice of wood over 2" wider. I personally prefer my food prep knife to be just food prep, only because I don't want wood or tape resin getting into whatever I'm eating. It's great for anything that doesn't require length or weight. The kershaw is nice because people aren't as afraid of it. it's very small and streamline and not that much bigger than a box cutter, and if anyone says 'hey can I use this knife to cut the label off of this glass jar, I promise to randomly start tapping the knife edge on the rim of the glass like a drum stick just because it seems like fun even though your looking at me like I'm insane', then I give them that.

If I had to carry one and only one, it would be the boss jack. i really don't like wanting a chopping knife and not having it on hand.
 
If you can live without INFI, take a look at the Rodent Solution that is up for sale in the Swamp Rat forum right now, its a very nice little EDC fixed blade.

Also not INFI, but Scrap Yard is coming out with a little necker with a prybar butt on real soon at an unbeatable price to performance ratio.

If it has to be INFI, the AD is a really nice knife if you can find one, and the *ABS variants are being praised and you might be able to get one from Busse still if you're fast.
 
Thanks guys.

Monsterdog I'll be ordering the Rodent Solution as soon as my Ratmandu arrives just because the price is too good not too. I'll keep an eye on the scrapyard.

Last Visable Carnay which Boss Street? I'm wondering if the thicker, .22, is a good slicer?
 
Thanks guys.

Monsterdog I'll be ordering the Rodent Solution as soon as my Ratmandu arrives just because the price is too good not too. I'll keep an eye on the scrapyard.

Last Visable Carnay which Boss Street? I'm wondering if the thicker, .22, is a good slicer?

no, the boss street is a terrible slicer. It will function as an edc but it is designed as a 'if you only have one knife and might need to use it as a
prybar' knife. As such it's got a thick edge, tip and grind. It goes from edge to .220 pretty fast, and it's starts out fairly thick at the edge.

P1010778.jpg


The knife under the boss street is a mini sus scrofa which is a fantastic slicer, one of the best in the busse plethora of designs. It's got a thin
edge from tip to ricasso. Compare it's tip to that of the boss street:

P1010780.jpg



it's not entirely fair to say "look at how thick the tip is, it's a terrible slicer" because the tip is not always representative of the rest of the knife.
Busse combat specifically thickens up their tips to strengthen them for abusive tasks like stabbing concrete or hitting rocks while chopping near
the ground. However - that edge thickness (what you see right after the sharpened portion of the tip) stays that thick across the entire edge.
The main grind does get taller across the straight edge (taking more like an inch to go from edge to full thickness instead of 1/2") - but right behind the
edge it's still as thick as seen in the picture.

The boss street, much like the boss jack proto's, are tanks. They are 'if you can only carry one, make it strong enough to cut you out of a car'.
They are not good slicers by any stretch of the term.
 
Thanks LVC, very understandable. I guess taking everything everybody has offered I'm trying to decide is it better to have the strength if I might need it just one time from the .22 boss street or try and grab the anorexic boss street with the much thinner blade and hope that INFI will keep it strong enough.
 
I've handled quite a few busses through the years, If I had to choose one and one only to edc it would be the boss jack. According to jerry the
new boss jacks will have a much flatter grind than the proto's will so they shouldn't be as tankish/overbuilt. If I had the money I'd probably buy
one and see how it compares to my proto, but for now I'm happy with what I've got. To make it usable you'll want to apply a really heavy
secondary bevel as seen here:

zP1060510.jpg


It's got enough length to chop (wood or in a fight), plenty of length for splitting wood, and once you grind the crap out of the edge (mine has a
large 18 degree releif bevel to get it down to reasonable with a 24 degree primary bevel) it is usable for edc type tasks like cutting boxes and
food prep. It is intimidating to pretty much anyone who see's it so it may be out of the question for whatever kind of work your going to be doing.
The cabs and boss street are both moderately sized knives that look more approachable, but are limited by their length and weight.

If I had to choose between a boss street and a cabs I would choose the cab solely because it doesn't have a choil, which for me is make or break
especially if it may be used in a fight. I personally carry a mini prybar on my keychain for tasks that call for small prying so I don't expect to ever
have to use a cab's sized knife for that. If you really need it in a do-or-die cut your way out of a car situation, both the cabs and boss street will
lose their edge quickly against metal (as all knives will) but neither should suffer catastrophic failure like the blade snapping. Even though the cabs
is made of a thinner stock, it's still a relatively tall blade. As long as you watch the knife and think about what your doing you should still be able
to get away with some fairly silly degrees of abuse for a knife of it's size.

I would choose the boss jack over the jack hammer in a heart beat. The boss jacks handle is more streamline, resulting in a better blade heavy
balance. The boss jack does not have a giant choil for snagging on things. The boss jack is a less-tall package that's easier to conceal and carry
without sacrificing' chopping ability.
 
badboy ,

I would say that for the money and task at hand that you should relook at the Boss street proto with a satin finish. LVC, is very wise and knowledgeable so do not discount what he has said, but you are looking for one blade to handle 90% of situations. This sounds like its more of a SHTF type of blade and the ABS would not make me confident enough to take on the SHTF. THe tip is too thin. You wont be able to pry with the ABS in tuff situations like prying open doors etc.

Unlike many that disliked the original satin Protos as being too thick I bet a few here that you would see the prices on the protos again rise after the ABS was gone. Especially, after some knuckle head goes, and post the first thread of....I broke the tip on my ABS trying to pry the barn door off! THen droves will want their .220's back. THe have a better geometry IMHO than the coated combat grades. THe flat grind is one of my favorite for slicing cause you never get the wedge effect normally found with a saber grind. Well, atleast not nearly as bad. everything relevent to width. Yes they will in no way slice the way the ABS does but are you looking for a slicer for your kitchen or hunting, or do you want a blade that handles the rest that you do?

If your going to carry only (one) fixed blade w/ the rest of your gear in dangerous situations....choose wisely. Your not dealing with sandwiches or steaks:cool:
 
This is the cabs next to the proto boss jacks, as you can see the proto's have a very round convex grind. The newer boss jacks
should get this thick this fast:

zP1050385.jpg


One of the benefits of a longer blade:

zP1050378.jpg


As a general purpose knife that has to be thick enough to chop and get kicked and abused, the boss jack is an excellent package
(once sharpened). I can carry it under a shirt with only a small bit of the sheath sticking out, and with a normal jacket it is completely
covered. I feel confident that this knife can do anything I want it to, and it is one of the best feeling brawling knives I've handled.
Normally I am into very thin slicers when it comes to fighting knives, I tend to think of a knife fight as a precision-amidst-chaos thing,
every slash should sink to bone. That tends to bring to mind, for me, something thin. This larger knife affords you something such a
knife does not - weight. It can build up enough momentum from a wrist snap to power through a leather jacket or bone without you
needing to push through the cut like you would with a thinner knife. It is a very beautiful tool. also, boss jacks are at msrp right now
on the main website which puts them in the lower cost levels of anything available on the aftermarket.

zP1030060.jpg

zP1030053.jpg
 
badboy ,

I would say that for the money and task at hand that you should relook at the Boss street proto with a satin finish. LVC, is very wise and knowledgeable so do not discount what he has said, but you are looking for one blade to handle 90% of situations. This sounds like its more of a SHTF type of blade and the ABS would not make me confident enough to take on the SHTF. THe tip is too thin. You wont be able to pry with the ABS in tuff situations like prying open doors etc.

Unlike many that disliked the original satin Protos as being too thick I bet a few here that you would see the prices on the protos again rise after the ABS was gone. Especially, after some knuckle head goes, and post the first thread of....I broke the tip on my ABS trying to pry the barn door off! THen droves will want their .220's back. THe have a better geometry IMHO than the coated combat grades. THe flat grind is one of my favorite for slicing cause you never get the wedge effect normally found with a saber grind. Well, atleast not nearly as bad. everything relevent to width. Yes they will in no way slice the way the ABS does but are you looking for a slicer for your kitchen or hunting, or do you want a blade that handles the rest that you do?

If your going to carry only (one) fixed blade w/ the rest of your gear in dangerous situations....choose wisely. Your not dealing with sandwiches or steaks:cool:

I agree with all of this, if only the original boss streets were choiless :p
 
WOW. That was just the kinda info I was looking for and I realize it is just one man's opinion, or two men. I appreciate all the time you guys took to help me. LVC, I understand what your saying about a longer blade in a knife fight but that would be the last thing I would think I need the knife for. I would use it but a lot would have to go wrong before that situation arose and it would be to fight to more or bigger guns.

I was thinking that when I asked if it was a slicer, I wasn't thinking tomato slices but more like zip ties, boxes and maybe a seatbelt.

I really appreciate the info about the boss street proto and the edge geometry vs the coated blade, that something not in the newbie guide. I'm going to look for a proto that is for sale and see if I can use some overtime to pick up a Boss Jack. Man I knew this would get expensive!

Mworley13 it isn't the laws don't apply to me, the laws actually have exceptions written in for law enforcement.
 
I have sort of half-scanned this thread so forgive if I get it wrong.

And I will also apologize if I came off somewhat opinionated. (Hate me or love me, I gave up years ago trying to gain favor for the sake of being accepted.)

Push comes to shove, I am a BIG believer in Mr. Bagwell's EDC of a full-sized Bowie.

I do not believe in carrying a folding knife for EDC especially when the primary job will be for self-offense. A folding knife, whether it be a one-hander, OTF Auto, or what have you. Is not as fast as a fixed blade knife for the average Joe (Not including all of the YOU TUBE Commandos who spend every waking hour toying with a butterfly knife.)

The size of blade depends on your stature, but I would not advise anything less than a 9 inch blade, all the way out to 14 inches for guys built like my best friend, who is 6'7" in his socks. Also the length of one's arms (reach) makes a huge difference. If your knuckles drag, you can handle a longer blade.

If you have not read Mr. Bagwell's compilation book, it would be a good idea to do so if you decided to "go there".

As I write this I am remembering a scene for the Sopranos. Tony goes to Uncle Junior's front cafe to talk serious business. Things go bad, and the last thing Junior says to Tony, "Next time you come in here, come heavy or don't come at all."

The rough spot here is this. If you need a tool to open boxes, or slice your sammich in half, then by all means carry a utility driven folding knife. If however you have decided to "CHOOSE" to carry a tool, wherein it will be used to cease the hostilities of a hostile suspect, then by all means, "GO HEAVY".

Here is something you already know. Knives as a tool to subdue a violent suspect, are frowned upon. At least they are here. If you are in an altercation, a knife may be the last thing you (legally) should try to deploy.

Unless, you target the aorta or subclavian artery, or the renal artery etc, it would be difficult to prove to a jury that a knife was a good idea.

Honestly this is the sort of thread that defense attorneys love to use as evidence of past prior mental attitude.

With that in mind, good luck.

If you want an off-duty carry blade...2 words..."BATTLE and PAPPY" come to mind...any of the sheath makers recommended here are great choices, or try this guy, who makes a great IWB sheath for BIG KNIVES.

http://www.rivercitysheaths.com/photo.htm

Shane
 
I was thinking that when I asked if it was a slicer, I wasn't thinking tomato slices but more like zip ties, boxes and maybe a seatbelt.

If using the knife as a prybar is not an expected task, and those three are your primary concerns, the mini sus scrofa is an excellent choice. It's
wharncliffe tip with a thin edge is ideal for all three tasks, it allows you to slip under zipties and seatbelts with less chance of stabbing the
person wearing them and has a fine downward pointing tip for cutting boxes. It's also more concealable then the boss jack.

That said, like the CABS, it's not a great prybar and the tip is pretty thin. It also has a large choil. I disliked the choil so much that I modified it
myself into this:

P1020523.jpg
 
LVC - sorry I didn't mean that was all I thought it would be used to cut, just some examples. I could certainly see a time when it could be used to pry open a door or to pry up a floorboard.

Hey guys its been suggested to me that my initial post may have sounded...pompous. Like I was flaunting that the rules don't apply to me because of my profession. I am sorry if I offended anyone here, I'm new and don't want to get off on the wrong foot. In my initial post I wanted to communicate that I had done my research looking at past threads and I hadn't seen any threads that addressed my particular situation. Like I've said I appreciate all the info I have received and apologize to anyone who was offended.
 
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