Edge holding!

Like Nathan said, edge too thick. I go back to the grinder after HT and take the edge down to .010" or so, then start hand sanding.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
For most applications, .032" might be a little too thick to apply your edge. Such a thick edge won't cut very well. Try .015-.020.

.010" if you're feeling daring.

10-15 deg per side.
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So I should grind it down until the edge is about .015"- .02" wide, then sharpen it at a 20-30 degree included angle? Is that correct? Thanks!!
 
it would give a much better edge, then polish at about 240 and strop, should give a good edge for the sort of work you wwant to do
 
sinawalli said:
So I should grind it down until the edge is about .015"- .02" wide, then sharpen it at a 20-30 degree included angle? Is that correct? Thanks!!
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Yes, but be extremely careful with any grinding done *after* heat treat -- make sure to keep the blade cool at all times (and it doesn't hurt to try to keep the blade relatively cool while grinding *before* heat treat either).
 
Are you taking off the decarb layer from heat treat? even with a foil envelope you will likely have a few thousandths of decarb. Also a 40 degree included angle is a cold chisel not a knife.

-Page
 
plate quencing presume you take the blade out of the foil and put between aluminum plates to pull the heat out faster? never done it like that usually set blade on a grate in front of a fan.
 
All I can say is send them to ROb at Ranger Original and your problem will be solved. My neibour has skinned and gutted 1 elk ,2 deer and never sharpend the cpm 154 skinner I made him , as a matter of fact he said it still shaves the hair on his arm .
 
hellgap said:
All I can say is send them to ROb at Ranger Original and your problem will be solved. My neibour has skinned and gutted 1 elk ,2 deer and never sharpend the cpm 154 skinner I made him , as a matter of fact he said it still shaves the hair on his arm .
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why would i send my blades to someone when i have a oven.
 
Machinest, first off I am replying to the person who started this thread SINAWALLI . Now as far as I can read he is in alberta canada just down the road from a great guy that heat treats for a living. SINAWALLI also said he is a AMATURE. So I guess if He send his steel out to someone they are screwing it up some how.Even a chisel edge should stay sharp with a #1 steel like cpm154
 
sunshadow said:
Are you taking off the decarb layer from heat treat? even with a foil envelope you will likely have a few thousandths of decarb. Also a 40 degree included angle is a cold chisel not a knife.

-Page
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It the decarb layer still that significant on a stock removal knife that was not forged? I don't like to do too much grinding after heat treatment. I was always more concerned with overheating the blade.
 
hellgap said:
Machinest, first off I am replying to the person who started this thread SINAWALLI . Now as far as I can read he is in alberta canada just down the road from a great guy that heat treats for a living. SINAWALLI also said he is a AMATURE. So I guess if He send his steel out to someone they are screwing it up some how.Even a chisel edge should stay sharp with a #1 steel like cpm154
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Rob's the man!! He is the one who does all my heat treating! Not blaming him at all for any of this, figure it is my edge geometry that is the issue. Never had any formal knife making training! Will get it solved though!1 Will be sending Rob some of my knives after Xmas, so a expert can take a look and maybe see what's wrong!! Will keep you posted!! Thanks!
 
What instrument or tool do you guys use for measuring the edge thickness? Whatever it is, I need to get one.
 
R.C.Reichert said:
Thanks!:) I have a caliper but it is kind of a cheapo unit. Perhaps I'll get me a nice digital one.
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Personally, I don't like the digital ones, I prefer a dial. Just don't buy a cheapy, spend the $$ and get a Mititoyu or Starrett. If you buy a digital, get a waterproof one!
 
I read all the the threads and see that Rob did your heat treat . This is how i finish my edge. I get it back from rob after ive sanded to 500 sometimes even 1200.grit structured abrasive belt I leave the edge very thin and sometime by accident sharpened the edge letting rob know so he doest cut himself. I take my sanding back to 500 take off the carb and go to 3000 then go to the paper wheel after the handle is all done . The paper wheel is one awesome device for sharpening. Your angles mean alot and if you over heated you blade while finishing you ruined the heat treat. I do my skinning knives at 18 to 20 degree s and kitchen and fillet at 15 degrees.
 
hellgap said:
I read all the the threads and see that Rob did your heat treat . This is how i finish my edge. I get it back from rob after ive sanded to 500 sometimes even 1200.grit structured abrasive belt I leave the edge very thin and sometime by accident sharpened the edge letting rob know so he doest cut himself. I take my sanding back to 500 take off the carb and go to 3000 then go to the paper wheel after the handle is all done . The paper wheel is one awesome device for sharpening. Your angles mean alot and if you over heated you blade while finishing you ruined the heat treat. I do my skinning knives at 18 to 20 degree s and kitchen and fillet at 15 degrees.
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So is just the finishing process itself enough to remove whatever decarb that may have formed during heat treat, or do you actually have to grind away a fair bit of metal? I usually go from a 220 grit before heat treat, then remove the scale by going over the blade again with the 220 grit after heat treat, then I move to a 400 or 600 grit final finish. Also, do the paper wheels require any sort of compound like buffing wheels do?
 
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