Edge maintenance and sharpening thread.

N

Noble1966

Joined
Dec 28, 2015
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I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread about sharpening and edge maintenance. There is lots of info about stripping your blade but amazingly enough not much info on sharpening.

Im decent at sharpening my kitchen knives and edc blades but lack the confidence to attempt anything more than leather stropeing on my Busse's.

There seems to be a few decent looking but expensive sharpening systems out there. Hoping folks could share their experiences and tips when working with what you think works best.

I will go first...

I have a Lansky, would never use it on a Busse.

I bought an Edge pro clone, would never use it on a Busse.

I bought a Leather stropeing belt for my 1" HF belt sander, would never use it on a Busse.

I bought a leather stroping paddle with compound. Used it on my BGASH. Seems to work well. The edge is nice and shiney :cool:

The only product I have seen out there that looks professional enough to use on my expensive Busse's is that Wicked Edge sharpener. Was considering getting one but they are wicked expensive!

I welcome all to post their wisdom! Maybe Jerry could get some of his best grinders to share some tips. :thumbup: and thanks in advance;)
 
Well, you, and probably most people on here, are not going to like what I have to say, but I'm going to say it anyway. You shouldn't START on an INFI Busse, but IMO, if you are going to use a blade, then you need to be able to make it workably sharp free-hand on a basic carborundum stone, and shaving sharp with a fine stone or ceramic. I've not met a blade steel yet, including INFI, that can't be sharpened that way. But if you can't do it yet, don't start on a thick-edged INFI or SR-101 blade. You will not like yourself if you do. Work up to it. But once you do, you will appreciate the ability.
 
rockspyder said:
Well, you, and probably most people on here, are not going to like what I have to say, but I'm going to say it anyway. You shouldn't START on an INFI Busse, but IMO, if you are going to use a blade, then you need to be able to make it workably sharp free-hand on a basic carborundum stone, and shaving sharp with a fine stone or ceramic. I've not met a blade steel yet, including INFI, that can't be sharpened that way. But if you can't do it yet, don't start on a thick-edged INFI or SR-101 blade. You will not like yourself if you do. Work up to it. But once you do, you will appreciate the ability.
Click to expand...

That being said, can you, or anyone else, recommend how to "work up to it"? What should one practice with? I'd love more information on this.
 
rockspyder said:
Well, you, and probably most people on here, are not going to like what I have to say, but I'm going to say it anyway. You shouldn't START on an INFI Busse, but IMO, if you are going to use a blade, then you need to be able to make it workably sharp free-hand on a basic carborundum stone, and shaving sharp with a fine stone or ceramic. I've not met a blade steel yet, including INFI, that can't be sharpened that way. But if you can't do it yet, don't start on a thick-edged INFI or SR-101 blade. You will not like yourself if you do. Work up to it. But once you do, you will appreciate the ability.
Click to expand...

Couldn't have said it better.

I use diamond plate after knocking the shoulder down with a Norton stone ($5 from home despot) or my HF 1X30. Sometimes if I'm in a hurry, I'll finish up on the HF using higher grit belts, but always always always use a loaded strop to finish up. 99.9% of the time, its my surgi-sharp 1x30 belt with 6 and/or 3 micron diamond lapping compound.

One thing that I've found helps more than anything regardless of your sharpening medium: USE A SHARPIE TO MARK YOIR EDGE. This way you know where you are removing material, and can adjust accordingly.
 
+1 on using the sharpie to see where you're making contact. The WorkSharp guided sharpening system is really nice, has a 20 or 17 degree guide on both ends to help you maintain angles. The KME with diamond stones is also nice if you want exact angles, I do think it would be a hassle with big chopper types bit I imagine it'd work if you just didn't use the base.
 
I have a wicked edge, while it was expensive, I'll never look back. I can make any knife any angle from 13° to 30° per side and for 40 bucks extra you can get strop sets for it.... Just don't slip, the wicked edge is not idiot proof...
 
I have heard so many good things about the Wicked edge, that I have decided that I'm going to get one. I'm not great at sharpening freehand, so even though the Wicked is an expensive system I have enough knives to make it worth the cost. You can save some money on the Wicked edge if you buy it at a show like Blade.
 
So far I've done;
>Free hand on diamond plates(Atoma), followed by waterstones(Chosera). Really easy this way, but obviously not an exact method.
>Sharpmaker, works amazing for touching up or adding microbevels. When stropping won't get it sharp anymore, I go to my Sharpmaker. This is definitely my go to method.
>Worksharp, now this don't have a lot of experience with. I did all my kitchen knives and cheaper folders first to get a hang of it, but not much with my nicer fixed blades. I've read people that swear by it, even at reprofiling obtuse angles, but just haven't used it enough.
 
This guy seems to be very good a wet stone sharpening

[video=youtube;5stV_1kID-U]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5stV_1kID-U[/video]
 
Ryker said:
That being said, can you, or anyone else, recommend how to "work up to it"? What should one practice with? I'd love more information on this.
Click to expand...

If you want to get it all in one go, a big CHEAP chopper would be the way to go. To be honest, if I was going to try to do that, if probably buy one of the cheap hatchets at Lowes or Home Depot, get two stones carborundum stones (one for it, one for good knives), and go at it. Knock the thick shoulders down, then take the edge to a burr, and then work on taking off the burr. You could do the same with one of the big Buck-brand tactical blades, but it would cost more. Or, you could find a couple of Old Hickory knives off the 'net and work on those a while. I think all of these would let you get the feel without working you to death on a premium steel (nevermind the cost). It will get harder when you go good steel, but you'll have a feel for the steel then. And the Sharpie helps along the way.
 
I contacted Wicked Edge and spoke to someone who told me if I have blades thicker than 3/16" I would have to get the Field and Sport model because the Jaws open wider to accept blades thicker than 3/16.

[video=youtube;Dl-89Pps7ws]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dl-89Pps7ws[/video]
 
The Wicked Edge is wonderful! If you are looking to think the shoulders "behind the edge", this system would and will do it, but it will take a while. These sharpening systems are designed for sharpening, not re-profiling. I have never taken a heat treated knife edge to a belt grinder for fear of over heating the blade edge, which I think happens more then we ever know! Part of the reason I by Busse, and other high end brands is because I believe in their heat treat process; the last thing I want to do is spoil that. I use the old wet dry sandpaper on a pad, then strop. Infi is VERY receptive to stropping! If and when my edge rolls, I will use a ceramic rod to straighten it, then strop to finish. If the edge rolls and breaks, I might use a few swipes on a fine stone and/or the sandpaper method, then strop. The convex edge you get from this method is very durable! One decision you want to make in deciding how to work the edge is what is the main intended focus, chopping, slicing, etc...

-Will
 
I guess it depends on which Busse's you have, a lot of mine came convexed. As long as you stay on top of it, they are easy to maintain with just a strop. I've reprofiled a few with sandpaper and a mouse pad also. Havn't sprung for an expensive sharpening sys yet,,,
 
rockspyder said:
If you want to get it all in one go, a big CHEAP chopper would be the way to go. To be honest, if I was going to try to do that, if probably buy one of the cheap hatchets at Lowes or Home Depot, get two stones carborundum stones (one for it, one for good knives), and go at it. Knock the thick shoulders down, then take the edge to a burr, and then work on taking off the burr. You could do the same with one of the big Buck-brand tactical blades, but it would cost more. Or, you could find a couple of Old Hickory knives off the 'net and work on those a while. I think all of these would let you get the feel without working you to death on a premium steel (nevermind the cost). It will get harder when you go good steel, but you'll have a feel for the steel then. And the Sharpie helps along the way.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much! I appreciate your knowledge & willingness to share it.
 
I use a edge pro apex. I have only sharpened 1 Busse with it so far and it turned out great. I'm still practicing on other knives though. I used to have a worksharp which worked great although I never used it on Busse blades.

As for the edge pro, I made my own leather strops for it with some stone blanks and a 1x18" strop belt.
 
Great thread!!! I was gonna use the sidewalk...seemed to work on sticks as a kid..
 
Robdude said:
Great thread!!! I was gonna use the sidewalk...seemed to work on sticks as a kid..
Click to expand...


I kid you not, I have returned the belly of a 440C Benchmade to workable sharpness (enough to cleanly cut something like card stock, and certainly wood) on the floor of my garage, when I accidentally dropped if from a few inches off the floor working on my Jeep. It can be done... but it was only slightly easier than going in the house, washing my hands so I didn't get grease everywhere, finding the stones, sharpening the blade, then going back to what I was doing before I dropped it...
 
Now I'm wondering how many of you guys are reps from wicked edge..... Hahaha. Jk. I'm sold. Anyone have a gently loved model for sale?
 
Some Important Notes about The Wicked Edge System:

1. It's capable of edge perfection well beyond anything else out there. The closest I've seen comparatively is the Edge Pro Professional Model with all the accessories. When I say edge perfection --- I really mean it.

2. It really does take a LONG time to achieve edge perfection. If you stop at 1,000 grit on the diamond stones --- it's not THAT bad time wise, however ---- if you go for any of the edges that I produce which have an apex thickness of under 1 micron -- it takes time.

3. If you're not careful --- at some point --- you're likely to nick yourself. It can be minor or substantial -- depending on force of contact and how sharp the blade is at time of contact. Like it was said above --- it's not idiot proof.

4. You need to truly understand the concept of forming a bur and effectively removing it, in order to take full advantage of the system. Otherwise -- you'll get mixed results.

5. Initially -- your results will be a little less than ideal --- once the stones are broken in -- you can achieve perfection.

6. You may have some slight bevel height variation -- some people think it's due to a change in the angle --- others accurately point out that it has to die with the varying thickness of the edge as you get closer to the tip. I think it's more of the second issue. There are some remedies to try to reduce or avoid this --- however --- I personally love the look and don't care to change anything.

7. Expect to dish out quite a bit more cash to get the different assortment of accessory stones/strops if you're shooting for perfect mirror polished edges.

8. A sharpie and digital angle cube are your best friend.

9. Prepare for other knife enthusiasts to occasionally make bitter/jealous comments about the extreme overkill of mirror polished edges. These are the same voices who criticized Noss, Jerry Busse, and others who took every opportunity to push their knives to the next "unnecessary" level.

10. Know that your knife will perform so much better than everyone else's due to significantly improved edge geometry. Your knife will effortlessly cut down trees and the bruised egos of all the haters.


Cheers to Perfection!
 
Rob_Mob said:
Some Important Notes about The Wicked Edge System:

1. It's capable of edge perfection well beyond anything else out there. The closest I've seen comparatively is the Edge Pro Professional Model with all the accessories. When I say edge perfection --- I really mean it.

2. It really does take a LONG time to achieve edge perfection. If you stop at 1,000 grit on the diamond stones --- it's not THAT bad time wise, however ---- if you go for any of the edges that I produce which have an apex thickness of under 1 micron -- it takes time.

3. If you're not careful --- at some point --- you're likely to nick yourself. It can be minor or substantial -- depending on force of contact and how sharp the blade is at time of contact. Like it was said above --- it's not idiot proof.

4. You need to truly understand the concept of forming a bur and effectively removing it, in order to take full advantage of the system. Otherwise -- you'll get mixed results.

5. Initially -- your results will be a little less than ideal --- once the stones are broken in -- you can achieve perfection.

6. You may have some slight bevel height variation -- some people think it's due to a change in the angle --- others accurately point out that it has to die with the varying thickness of the edge as you get closer to the tip. I think it's more of the second issue. There are some remedies to try to reduce or avoid this --- however --- I personally love the look and don't care to change anything.

7. Expect to dish out quite a bit more cash to get the different assortment of accessory stones/strops if you're shooting for perfect mirror polished edges.

8. A sharpie and digital angle cube are your best friend.

9. Prepare for other knife enthusiasts to occasionally make bitter/jealous comments about the extreme overkill of mirror polished edges. These are the same voices who criticized Noss, Jerry Busse, and others who took every opportunity to push their knives to the next "unnecessary" level.

10. Know that your knife will perform so much better than everyone else's due to significantly improved edge geometry. Your knife will effortlessly cut down trees and the bruised egos of all the haters.


Cheers to Perfection!
Click to expand...

I can't echo numbers 2 and 3 enough. Slice you to the bone it will
 
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