Edge maintenance and sharpening thread.

Rob_Mob said:
Some Important Notes about The Wicked Edge System:

1. It's capable of edge perfection well beyond anything else out there. The closest I've seen comparatively is the Edge Pro Professional Model with all the accessories. When I say edge perfection --- I really mean it.

2. It really does take a LONG time to achieve edge perfection. If you stop at 1,000 grit on the diamond stones --- it's not THAT bad time wise, however ---- if you go for any of the edges that I produce which have an apex thickness of under 1 micron -- it takes time.

3. If you're not careful --- at some point --- you're likely to nick yourself. It can be minor or substantial -- depending on force of contact and how sharp the blade is at time of contact. Like it was said above --- it's not idiot proof.

4. You need to truly understand the concept of forming a bur and effectively removing it, in order to take full advantage of the system. Otherwise -- you'll get mixed results.

5. Initially -- your results will be a little less than ideal --- once the stones are broken in -- you can achieve perfection.

6. You may have some slight bevel height variation -- some people think it's due to a change in the angle --- others accurately point out that it has to die with the varying thickness of the edge as you get closer to the tip. I think it's more of the second issue. There are some remedies to try to reduce or avoid this --- however --- I personally love the look and don't care to change anything.

7. Expect to dish out quite a bit more cash to get the different assortment of accessory stones/strops if you're shooting for perfect mirror polished edges.

8. A sharpie and digital angle cube are your best friend.

9. Prepare for other knife enthusiasts to occasionally make bitter/jealous comments about the extreme overkill of mirror polished edges. These are the same voices who criticized Noss, Jerry Busse, and others who took every opportunity to push their knives to the next "unnecessary" level.

10. Know that your knife will perform so much better than everyone else's due to significantly improved edge geometry. Your knife will effortlessly cut down trees and the bruised egos of all the haters.


Cheers to Perfection!
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Great post Rob, Thank You!

Yeah I am pretty much sold on getting a WE, cant see any better way to work on a Busse.

[video=youtube;q5X9CNJzG5s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5X9CNJzG5s[/video]
 
Noble1966 said:
I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread about sharpening and edge maintenance. There is lots of info about stripping your blade but amazingly enough not much info on sharpening.

Im decent at sharpening my kitchen knives and edc blades but lack the confidence to attempt anything more than leather stropeing on my Busse's.

There seems to be a few decent looking but expensive sharpening systems out there. Hoping folks could share their experiences and tips when working with what you think works best.

I will go first...

I have a Lansky, would never use it on a Busse.

I bought an Edge pro clone, would never use it on a Busse.

I bought a Leather stropeing belt for my 1" HF belt sander, would never use it on a Busse.

I bought a leather stroping paddle with compound. Used it on my BGASH. Seems to work well. The edge is nice and shiney :cool:

The only product I have seen out there that looks professional enough to use on my expensive Busse's is that Wicked Edge sharpener. Was considering getting one but they are wicked expensive!

I welcome all to post their wisdom! Maybe Jerry could get some of his best grinders to share some tips. :thumbup: and thanks in advance;)
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There is nothing special or difficult about sharpening any Bussekin, any more so than any other knife or type of steel. Why wont you use the tools you already have? All those would work and are used by other folks.

I mostly use a HF 1x30, because it's the quickest way to knock back the thick shoulder and improve the edge geometry on the choppers. The Sharpmaker is nice to maintain the edge on small knives and touch up the microbevel.
 
Like I mentioned earlier, I haven't really used my Worksharp on my Busse/kin, but thought I read someone like using it to reprofile obtuse grinds?
Anyone have experience using one to thin out the shoulder?
 
As RG stated, the 1x30 is fantastic for removing shoulder material. This allows for a much easier time for me when I want to use my DMT plates. A 1x30 won't hurt your blade one bit.
 
Ryker said:
That being said, can you, or anyone else, recommend how to "work up to it"? What should one practice with? I'd love more information on this.
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El-cheapo knives from garage/yard/rummage sales, thrift stores, out of garages/shops of relatives & friends, can be used to develop the feel of sharpening freehand. Some of the old carbon steel butcher & paring knives can get way sharp with some work. But a lot of them found in the wild can be dull as a railroad tie when you get them. They make for good practice material. Once you get proficient at sharpening the el-cheapo's, move on up to thicker, better, & more $$ knives.
 
resinguy said:
There is nothing special or difficult about sharpening any Bussekin, any more so than any other knife or type of steel. Why wont you use the tools you already have? All those would work and are used by other folks.

I mostly use a HF 1x30, because it's the quickest way to knock back the thick shoulder and improve the edge geometry on the choppers. The Sharpmaker is nice to maintain the edge on small knives and touch up the microbevel.
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I guess it is because they are expensive compared to my other knives. I have some cheapo blades that I have been practicing on and that is where I find the problem. I am just not happy with any of the sharpening products that I currently own. I just want the right tools to do it. I thought I would be happy with the edge pro clone. not! So far out of all the different sharpening products I have I like my ceramic rod and leather strop. But for reprofileing the edge like you say, I dont want to use a powertool... and I want to be able to hit an exact angle on both sides. Dont want to freehand that.
 
rcb2000 said:
Like I mentioned earlier, I haven't really used my Worksharp on my Busse/kin, but thought I read someone like using it to reprofile obtuse grinds?
Anyone have experience using one to thin out the shoulder?
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I used mine with the Blade Grinding attachment to not really thin the shoulder so much, but reprofile the edge to something useful to slice with. It worked well for that. I would use my Kalamazoo 2x48 for thinning the shoulder though.
 
Danketch said:
I used mine with the Blade Grinding attachment to not really thin the shoulder so much, but reprofile the edge to something useful to slice with. It worked well for that. I would use my Kalamazoo 2x48 for thinning the shoulder though.
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Interesting, thanks!
 
Sharpened my one and only busse for the first time today:thumbup:
Only convex edge knife i own, and only have a sharpmaker..
Had read about the mousepad/sandpaper method..
Too easy!! And cheap
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Its a lightsaber now!👍
 
By far the best knife i ever had👍
Until today i only stroped on a old belt too keep it sharp.
But the edge had got some dings i could not straight out, so took a few swipes on 1000grit wet/dry sandpaper..
It's perfect again!
This thing cuts like a demon! Oak, hard plastic, fingers.. Its all just like butter👍
Never had anything impress me like this blade!
This i will bring to my grave!
 
I use an edgepro and I sharpen freehand from time to time. For my personal philosophy of use, most of the Busse knives I have come across (n=4) have required some reprofiling. It is not unusual for production knives and even handmade knives to be sold with an edge >50 degrees inclusive. For general purpose use, 38-42 degrees seems to be the sweet spot for toughness and cutting. It is easier to keep an edge that has perfect geometry to start with, but they say a knife is never finished until you give it life and shape it to your will.

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Someone had started a thread with a homemade wicked edge. I'd like to see that thread added here..... Just need to find it now.....
 
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