Edge Photos

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and an old edge shot

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Not the best photo, but here is a clean 600 grit edge on a small sebenza. It won't wittle hair but it sure slices!
 
Nice edges guys, very nice.

Blues Bender- Like I said in the other thread, that is very very sharp.
 
Nice edges guys, very nice.

Blues Bender- Like I said in the other thread, that is very very sharp.

Haha thanks, I didn't realize you started this thread! Oh well, I really like this picture. I took it with a 10x jewlers loupe taped to my phone:D talk about ghetto man! $500 knives with $10 camera skills:rolleyes:
 
Haha thanks, I didn't realize you started this thread! Oh well, I really like this picture. I took it with a 10x jewlers loupe taped to my phone:D talk about ghetto man! $500 knives with $10 camera skills:rolleyes:
Tell me about it, that's why all my shots are so bad. Phone photos.
 
This was my first attempt at a convex edge on my Wicked Edge sharpener, I think it turned out alright. Not a perfect mirror polish, but it cuts really well.

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P.S. Those were taken with a phone.
 
Convex on a guided system? That is an interesting idea.

I started with a 40 Degree inclusive, then did 34 Degrees, then 45 Degrees. Then stropped at 40 and finished with a strop by hand. What I ended up with, was a mix between a convex, and 3 separate bevels. As you can see in the last picture, there is still a bit of evidence where the 3 separate bevels were made. If I finished with a bit more hand stropping I'm sure I could finalize it into a true convex.
 
I started with a 40 Degree inclusive, then did 34 Degrees, then 45 Degrees. Then stropped at 40 and finished with a strop by hand. What I ended up with, was a mix between a convex, and 3 separate bevels. As you can see in the last picture, there is still a bit of evidence where the 3 separate bevels were made. If I finished with a bit more hand stropping I'm sure I could finalize it into a true convex.
Why did you opt for 3 increasingly wide angles? Could 2 not have been enough assuming you blended them together purposely in the stropping stage? 45 inclusive just seems so wide for this type of knife. Every edge serves a different purpose, I understand, just wondering for your insights.
 
Why did you opt for 3 increasingly wide angles? Could 2 not have been enough assuming you blended them together purposely in the stropping stage? 45 inclusive just seems so wide for this type of knife. Every edge serves a different purpose, I understand, just wondering for your insights.

Biggest reason was because I cut some tar paper with my Sebenza which caused the edge to become a little overly worn near the belly.So rather than sharpen for an hour pulling the bevel back behind where the damage was, I just ground out the damage in a couple minutes. Also, My Wicked Edge couldn't sharpen much past 34 Degrees inclusive on my Sebby. The 45 degree portion of the bevel is very minor however, the majority of the edge is comprised of the 34 and 40 degree portions.

Edit: Mostly, it was an experiment. If I could do it again, I would do 30, 35, 40 degrees. And just modify how the knife was mounted in the wicked edge to get the more acute angles.
 
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Do you guys put secondary bevels on your CRK's?
I have been trying but haven't decided if I like it as much as a totally uniform edge. It's something I've tried on and off for a long time and never really made up my mind about secondary or micro bevels on the edge. They do whatever I need them to in terms of cutting but that kind of edge isn't as fun imo.
 
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Do you guys put secondary bevels on your CRK's?

Yes.

IMO they are easier to touch up in the field on a pocket stone like the "double stuff". However nothing beats a stupid sharp "single bevel" that whittles hair (like pictured above). The only downside, is that those edges are too hard to maintain in the field under daily use.

Most of the time, my work knife (large micarta insingo) is barely shaving sharp, its usually found wearing a working edge. But I don't need über sharpness when working construction, it's just unnecessary. I touch up on a pocket stone maybe once every week or two. However, I put a stupid sharp edge on it here and there. I have plenty of other knives that I can keep stupid sharp without having to maintain them (since I hardly carry them to work).

In short, micro bevels are great for knives under constant use.
 
In short, micro bevels are great for knives under constant use.

I think the same could be said for a convex edge. I know that after a week or so, my Sebenza with its makeshift convex edge wasn't shaving sharp. A few passes on a strop (and I'm no expert free hander) and it was easily shaving hair once again. Though you could also attribute this to CRK's heat treat and the fact that the steel is a little softer.
 
I think the same could be said for a convex edge. I know that after a week or so, my Sebenza with its makeshift convex edge wasn't shaving sharp. A few passes on a strop (and I'm no expert free hander) and it was easily shaving hair once again. Though you could also attribute this to CRK's heat treat and the fact that the steel is a little softer.

The flexibility in a leather strop also encourages the edge to take on a convex shape, thus making it easier to touch up on one:thumbup:

I've been wanting to try a balsa wood strop to see what kind of edge that'll give me.
 
I've been curious about balsa wood too.

I've got a regular hide on a wood backing that works miracles. It's my go to.

I also have a nice kangaroo magnetic back strop for that last bit of super fine Stropping.
My tanto sebenza is to the point that you can hover over your skin and the hair is shooting off your arm. Really an amazing process.
That's the reason I enjoy sharpening. To know that my work has created that edge.
I don't know the last time I sharpened a truly dull edge. I maintain my edges so much, they never get out of shaving sharp.

Like I posted earlier, my new translucent Arkansas stone is really helping extend the time between honing sessions.

I'm by no means a expert at freehand, but it seems that since I've been using a guided system for so long now , when I tried to freehand for the first time in a long time, it felt like I had a better feel for getting a really good edge.
Now freehanding with that Arkansas is part of the routine. I imagine as time goes on, I'll incorporate more freehand stones in my honing routine eventually eliminating the guided system.
However, it's hard to argue with the kind of edges the edge pro can produce. I really love that thing lol.
 
I just ordered some 3"x8" balsa strops and red and green strop compound. These should give me "legendary sharpness" after a session on my paper wheels. I can put a damn good edge on a knife with paper wheels, a ceramic pocket stone, and a leather strop with white AlOx on it. It's not a very elaborate setup, but it works well. So with these, I'm hoping to take my sharpness to the next level.

I'm not a fan of guided systems, I used the sharpmaker for a couple months and quickly realized how limited it was compared to freehanding. I eventually started using the rods freehand to achieve better results, but eventually got the "double stuff" for more surface area.

If I need to reprofile: paper wheels
Touch up: spyderco double stuff and a strop
Easy as that...
 
Ya, some people don't like guided systems. However, in the limited experience I have with my Wicked Edge, I can see it's pros. Biggest ones being the ease of re-profiling, and the speed that I can sharpen multiple knives. Yes, you can achieve the same results with free handing, but I like the simplicity of the guided system. And I can freehand, I just don't have the resources or patience to re-profile S30V or Microtech's ATS-34 (let's not talk about the highspeed steels).
 
Ya, some people don't like guided systems. However, in the limited experience I have with my Wicked Edge, I can see it's pros. Biggest ones being the ease of re-profiling, and the speed that I can sharpen multiple knives. Yes, you can achieve the same results with free handing, but I like the simplicity of the guided system. And I can freehand, I just don't have the resources or patience to re-profile S30V or Microtech's ATS-34 (let's not talk about the highspeed steels).
I've been using a new set of DMT stones and am very happy with the results so far. The extra coarse DMT has made reprofiling pretty quick work so far.
 
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