Recommendation? Edge Pro Conversion Stones

halden.doerge said:
Aquaholicc Aquaholicc Have you consulted the grand unified grit chart?
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Yeah man, funny you posted this..I did a simple google search and found this thread earlier. To be honest the more research I do on this topic the worse my headache becomes lol. I may just stay with the EP stones(not like you want to put Dodge parts on a Chevy). Knowing their grit progression is probably more than satisfactory.

Diemaker said:
No opinion on Shapton glass stones since I have never seen one, yet, which is why I want to borrow EP's set to try out.

Miso2, the 2300 and 1000 stones are totally different so you can't make any assumptions on abrasive size from one to the other. When I call Cody tomorrow to ask him to set out the Shaptons I will ask about the 1000 stone to see what he knows.
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Man..I'm glad I didn't order the 2k shapton all these charts is reference seems to point out that a shapton 2k is worse than a EP1k? (Hopefully I'm understanding the charts correctly)..I'm going to wait and see what Cody has to weigh in on this conversation. I feel like I should just spend the few extra bucks and buy the 2300 and 4000 EP stones and call it a night.
 
Just a short update as I am busy doing other stuff and haven't even had my computer on in days. I got the Shapton glass stones, 220 through 30,000, and did one side of the scissors I sharpened last. I actually like the Shaptons better than expected, but they do take much longer than the aluminum oxide EP stones. Being ceramic they don't absorb water so you have to keep adding a little while sharpening, they dry out real fast. So far I would say the Shapton 6000 is pretty close to the EP 2300 and the Shapton 16,000 is pretty close to the EP 4000. The EP 6000 tape leaves a little finer polish than the Shapton 30,000, especially if the tape has already done a knife or two. This is just my opinion after sharpening one side of a pair of scissors so it may change some after I get to play with them some more, but probably not by much. I did scissors because all of my good knives are sharp and the large bevel I sharpen on the scissors is easier to see than the .01"-.02" bevel on my knives. I will be working in my shop this weekend so I should get time to play with the Shaptons some more.

When I talked to Cody he said the EP 1000 stone is made with an 18 micron abrasive. KEEP IN MIND THIS DOESN'T TELL YOU MUCH!!!! Bond, concentration, and the exact abrasive is just as important, if not more so, than the size of the abrasive. If you know the micron rating of a stone you know about 10% of what is necessary to determin how it will work.
 
Diemaker said:
Just a short update as I am busy doing other stuff and haven't even had my computer on in days. I got the Shapton glass stones, 220 through 30,000, and did one side of the scissors I sharpened last. I actually like the Shaptons better than expected, but they do take much longer than the aluminum oxide EP stones. Being ceramic they don't absorb water so you have to keep adding a little while sharpening, they dry out real fast. So far I would say the Shapton 6000 is pretty close to the EP 2300 and the Shapton 16,000 is pretty close to the EP 4000. The EP 6000 tape leaves a little finer polish than the Shapton 30,000, especially if the tape has already done a knife or two. This is just my opinion after sharpening one side of a pair of scissors so it may change some after I get to play with them some more, but probably not by much. I did scissors because all of my good knives are sharp and the large bevel I sharpen on the scissors is easier to see than the .01"-.02" bevel on my knives. I will be working in my shop this weekend so I should get time to play with the Shaptons some more.

When I talked to Cody he said the EP 1000 stone is made with an 18 micron abrasive. KEEP IN MIND THIS DOESN'T TELL YOU MUCH!!!! Bond, concentration, and the exact abrasive is just as important, if not more so, than the size of the abrasive. If you know the micron rating of a stone you know about 10% of what is necessary to determin how it will work.
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Awesome info my friend. I can't thank you enough. I took a leap of faith and purchased the 2300 EP stone (which from your post sounds like I made the right decision) I'll be recovering the stone in the mail tomorrow. I can't wait to see the results before and after my knives are finished with this 2300 rather than the 1000 I normally finish on.

If your interested I'll post pics in the thread to share my experience with this.

In the long run I hope the results are to my standards so I don't have to spend another 50 bucks on the EP 4000!
 
Glad you hear you went with the EP 2300 as I think this is the best option considering you have all EP stones that are coarser. Please do post what you think of it, I would like to hear it.

Eh, you're probably going to want the 4k stone as well, it will take your edge to the next level. In the mean time finish with the 2300 using very light pressure for shallower scratches. This advise applies to the 1k stone as well.
 
Diemaker said:
Glad you hear you went with the EP 2300 as I think this is the best option considering you have all EP stones that are coarser. Please do post what you think of it, I would like to hear it.

Eh, you're probably going to want the 4k stone as well, it will take your edge to the next level. In the mean time finish with the 2300 using very light pressure for shallower scratches. This advise applies to the 1k stone as well.
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Do you have anything finished at 2-2300?
 
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