edge pro vs clamp style sharpener for even needle tip

Maybe some people are applying too much pressure at the start.
That must be it.
I actually would like a clamped system. I just went to the Edge Pro when I saw how the WE had such a thick clamp the stone would hit the clamp while sharpening my small and shallow angle knives. I had an aligner before that that was useless on small knives. Nice super fine diamond stones though ! The 8,000 diamond grit is really something. Too short but it is fine !
 
Flexing ?
Lack of stops . . . the stone over travels and scratches the main grind ?
This is the thread I was thinking of.
>>>>Link
 
Flexing ?
Lack of stops . . . the stone over travels and scratches the main grind ?
This is the thread I was thinking of.
>>>>Link

I didn't read the entire thread but those scratches on his blade in the first picture are most likely from him scraping the corners of the stone across the blade when pushing the rod. He's likely slipping up onto the blade. Those diamonds, especially when new, take very little incidental contact to scratch the blade.

I've had my KME for a number of years, like back before they came with diamond stones, and I've had no issue with it flexing.
 
No good answer here, imo. The best and easiest way to manage the tip is to hand sharpen on stones. When the stone is fixed and you are moving the blade you have best opportunity to move the edge across the stone. In that case you're not fighting the machine or having to move a stone while rotating the knife. I have an EdgePro and I have done fine with tips by rotating my knife as I sharpen. It can be done, but there's a learning curve.

I also am not sure how the small blade attachment helps. I'll go look for a video. One issue I have with it is the thickness. It gets in the way if you're trying to do lower angles.

Somebody really needs to come up with a better guided sharpener. There has to be some way to adjust the stone path for the curve of a blade. Will have to noodle this for a while. Maybe an adjustable cam (or a couple) that change the blade angle as it travels across the blade(?).
 
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No good answer here, imo. The best and easiest way to manage the tip is to hand sharpen on stones. When the stone is fixed and you are moving the blade you have best opportunity to move the edge across the stone. In that case you're not fighting the machine or having to move a stone while rotating the knife. I have an EdgePro and I have done fine with tips by rotating my knife as I sharpen. It can be done, but there's a learning curve.

I also am not sure how the small blade attachment helps. I'll go look for a video. One issue I have with it is the thickness. It gets in the way if you're trying to do lower angles.

Somebody really needs to come up with a better guided sharpener. There has to be some way to adjust the stone path for the curve of a blade. Will have to noodle this for a while. Maybe an adjustable cam (or a couple) that change the blade angle as it travels across the blade(?).
Ive been digging around on the net and realized that theres no answer because a knife can be held the same way in all the systems. Originally I thought the wide tip bevel was caused by a change in angle as you move towards the tip but I'm starting to think that you would actually want the angle to increase towards the tip since most knives would be thicker behind the edge near the tip and keeping the same angle throughout would make the tip bevel wide. Seems like just keeping the main part of the knife straight so the tip area is closer to the pivot and increases in angle should work for most knives on any system and the sharpie method should be used to make slight adjustment based on the specific blade geometry. By the way I also saw on another forum someone created an arc chart allowing you to clamp a blade so that the curved belly portion corresponds to the arc of the stone when sharpening, this seems like a useful approach for positioning a knife on any system considering a consistent blade thickness behind the bevel.
 
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