Edge Sharpness Tester

Anyone have an idea of where a dedicated wood carving knife should be on the BESS scale? Just an opinion is fine.

I plan to test a few knives to include-

A brand new SAK

Custom wharncliffe (1084)

Leather work round knife ("tool steel" probably o1)

Wood carving knives from two custom makers (o1 & 1095)

Modified Opinel (carbone)

A few other customs
 
Most high quality wood or leather cutters are fairly hard tool steel. Japanese versions in their carbon steels are as you'd expect.

I have blades for the same block plane that are different angles for different applications. Good chisel sharpeners know how to tune them to perfection.

I don't know how you are going to be able to take BESS measurements on a round knife, but with good steel and very thin geometry, I would expect the same numbers I'd get with hard carbon kitchen knives.

Chisels or plane blades are often about the same inclusive angle as knives, and use perfect v-bevels, so if you could take measurements I think you'd get similar results.

IMHO, we aren't scratching the surface of the science this simple tool can reveal.
 
IMHO, we aren't scratching the surface of the science this simple tool can reveal.

It's a pretty slick little tool, but I would be worried if we all fell slave to a BESS number. For example, note these two posts:

Did another knife today, this one S110V at 65 RC and .005" behind the edge, used in the kitchen for the past 3 years or so.

Test 4 - Edge reset using SIC 320 then finish with 400 grit SIC on EP.

44, 48, 47 = Ave 46.3

440C Izula, 20 degree back bevel with 30 degree microbevel ( not sure where to measure thickness behind the edge on this one, but if at the back bevel, it's .035"):
First run without touch up: Avg 200+ ( don't have a proper scale to measure higher )
After touch up on DMT F: Avg 46.3

Exact same BESS score, but I would suspect that a knife .005" behind the edge will likely cut better than a knife .035" behind the edge. I'd really like to see BESS scores compared to some of ToddS's SEM examinations. It seems pretty obvious that this tool alone can't characterize all cutting performance. But can it characterize apex quality?
 
It's a pretty slick little tool, but I would be worried if we all fell slave to a BESS number. For example, note these two posts:





Exact same BESS score, but I would suspect that a knife .005" behind the edge will likely cut better than a knife .035" behind the edge. I'd really like to see BESS scores compared to some of ToddS's SEM examinations. It seems pretty obvious that this tool alone can't characterize all cutting performance. But can it characterize apex quality?


It goes to what I was saying before.

Sharp is sharp, anything below 50 is screaming sharp, I can consistently get there with no problem using my finishing stone that I use, steel doesn't matter either from what I have seen.

So what that means is I will have a consistent starting point running my tests and that is what I care about.

Personally I am moving on to start using the tool for what it was designed for, and implementing it into my testing processes measuring levels of sharpness during the process.

it's the 1st tool that I have seen that can really measure sharpness at an extremely accurate level and do it consistently.

My additional Media will be here this week so it will start once it gets here, I have plans for this tool. :)
 
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I have some serious plans for this tool personally in my testing that I do over the next 5 years or so.

Outstanding! You are probably going to have one of the most accurate and complete set of hard numbers regarding sharpening that's ever been recorded.

Congratulations! Thank you so much for all the time and energy you put into testing knives, Ankerson. Your work is very inspiring!
 
It's a pretty slick little tool, but I would be worried if we all fell slave to a BESS number. For example, note these two posts:


Exact same BESS score, but I would suspect that a knife .005" behind the edge will likely cut better than a knife .035" behind the edge. I'd really like to see BESS scores compared to some of ToddS's SEM examinations. It seems pretty obvious that this tool alone can't characterize all cutting performance. But can it characterize apex quality?

You should also take into consideration though that the Izula I mentioned has two bevels on it. I measured the thickness behind the back bevel, but if I measured it behind the actual edge's bevel it probably would have been closer to that .005" mark. That's one reason I've found that conveying the thickness behind the edge doesn't really say much. Especially because my other Izula is probably similar thickness behind the cutting bevel's edge but significantly less sharp.

I re-profiled the Leek last night. Haven't got a chance to finish the edge but curious to see how it changes the BESS score. Before I couldn't really get it below 80 and was lucky to even get it into the 90s without like, rolling over the apex.
 
You should also take into consideration though that the Izula I mentioned has two bevels on it.

There's a lot of other things that should be taken into consideration. That's the point I'm trying to make :) the BESS number seems like an awesome data point to have, but is only one of many important components. I'm excited to see this added to Ankerson's database of cutting performance. As mentioned, I'd also like to see a comparison against SEM images of edges. If low BESS numbers strictly correlate with a particularly keen apex, I'd like to see how that relationship can describe physical characteristics. It would be really cool if apex width correlated somewhat linearly with BESS score!
 
There's a lot of other things that should be taken into consideration. That's the point I'm trying to make :) the BESS number seems like an awesome data point to have, but is only one of many important components. I'm excited to see this added to Ankerson's database of cutting performance. As mentioned, I'd also like to see a comparison against SEM images of edges. If low BESS numbers strictly correlate with a particularly keen apex, I'd like to see how that relationship can describe physical characteristics. It would be really cool if apex width correlated somewhat linearly with BESS score!

+1 .
 
Well I'm getting tired of testing with my Leek due to my inability to sharpen it. You know, the problem with this machine is that now I'm not satisfied with what was before a very sharp edge in my mind. Now I'm like, "I can't get it under 100! I can get this knife to 46, why can't I get this one to 80?!" In the meantime they'll both whittle hair and the perceptible difference in actually cutting anything isn't even there at all.

So yeah, given the fact that I seem to be able to sharpen my Izula way more I think that's the one I should do comparative edge-retention tests and stuff with. The main reason i didn't want to do it with this knife is that it's so thick, it's kind of different from a lot of other knives--when it dulls you know it because you're forcing the 3/16" stock through material whereas with a slimmer knife even when the edge dulls it will still feel somewhat easy. Why does that really matter, well because if we're talking about when a knife "feels" dull and I take the Izula out and it's still got a BESS of 200 that won't really convey a lot about other knives which might still "feel" sharp when cutting even with higher BESS scores.

Ankerson, do you have any thicker blades like the Izula? I'd be curious to see what happens in comparison to your other knives.
 
Well I'm getting tired of testing with my Leek due to my inability to sharpen it. You know, the problem with this machine is that now I'm not satisfied with what was before a very sharp edge in my mind. Now I'm like, "I can't get it under 100! I can get this knife to 46, why can't I get this one to 80?!" In the meantime they'll both whittle hair and the perceptible difference in actually cutting anything isn't even there at all.

So yeah, given the fact that I seem to be able to sharpen my Izula way more I think that's the one I should do comparative edge-retention tests and stuff with. The main reason i didn't want to do it with this knife is that it's so thick, it's kind of different from a lot of other knives--when it dulls you know it because you're forcing the 3/16" stock through material whereas with a slimmer knife even when the edge dulls it will still feel somewhat easy. Why does that really matter, well because if we're talking about when a knife "feels" dull and I take the Izula out and it's still got a BESS of 200 that won't really convey a lot about other knives which might still "feel" sharp when cutting even with higher BESS scores.

Ankerson, do you have any thicker blades like the Izula? I'd be curious to see what happens in comparison to your other knives.


Yes, I have a Survive GSO 4.1 in M390 that's .035" and 3/16" etc, will have to dig it out and see I suppose. :D

From what I have seen I wouldn't be upset with anything under 200 really.

Yes I do understand what you are saying, now they we have a tool that can really measure sharpness accurately and consistently and we have real numbers to actually look at.

I wouldn't get all that concerned about trying to get to this number or that number, you could drive yourself crazy. ;)
 
Yes, I have a Survive GSO 4.1 in M390 that's .035" and 3/16" etc, will have to dig it out and see I suppose. :D

From what I have seen I wouldn't be upset with anything under 200 really.

Yes I do understand what you are saying, now they we have a tool that can really measure sharpness accurately and consistently and we have real numbers to actually look at.

I wouldn't get all that concerned about trying to get to this number or that number, you could drive yourself crazy. ;)

Yeah I could definitely see the driving myself crazy being a possibility because now I've been contemplating all the reasons why the Leek would not be able to get as sharp as the Izula. The great thing is though that I have enough uhh... Insight or whatever you'd call it, to realize it's probably my own limitations rather than anything with the Leek and that's where the tool really shines in my eyes because you can test your own shortcomings in an affirmative sort of way. I think there's also a lot of opportunity for guided sharpeners to really nail down differences between cutting geometries, heat treats and edge finishes too though.

Anyway, some of my thoughts in detail so far...

The EST is definitely a measuring device. What it reminds me of is in my machine shop days, when we would have to hand-file parts. We'd get the surfaces nice and flat and would test them on a surface plate with a big "V block" that was just a machined chunk of steel that you could place a part against to make sure it was exactly square, then test the flatness of the surface by marking it with "Prussian Blue" dye. You could tell your high and low spots by which parts were marked by the dye and which weren't, and you'd know where to file--or where you were hitting low or high, etc. There was no "Well I'll file this as flat as I think I can and then rest assured that the result is flat," you had to measure it and then modify your technique appropriately, and it was actually amazing when you put this part into a CNC and the sides/edges you filed so flat were held squarely enough to make another precision measuring device out of--but uhh that's a little beside the point.

I think the EST is the same way and I see some big time saving because instead of going, "Well this part feels duller than this part but I'm not sure so I'm just going to touch up the whole blade and try to guess that it's equal," you can factually verify that one portion of the edge needs sharpening more than the other, or that you're hitting that part more effectively, etc. and know how to alter your sharpening technique just as the surface plate would let you know how to alter your filing technique. I mean being able to rate the sharpness of a knife edge that's fine, but the real usefulness is being able to "measure" it and this device has accuracy repeatable enough to do so.

Honestly I'd compare the versatility and accuracy with it to be similar to the practicality of a pair of calipers. It is a precise tool that can tell you a lot but you need to know how to apply the data it gives you--I think we'll find though that with a little bit of thinking it could become an indispensable for some, much like the precision of calipers are to machinists. Now where that precision is really needed in the cutlery field I don't know, I'm thinking straight razor enthusiasts will probably like the ability to verify each portion of the blade is as sharp as the rest, but for most knife users that's just how knives are--we use one portion of the blade more than others, favor certain grips and orientation for various tasks, so the variability is inevitable with use anyway. So I think a lot of people will find themselves justifying the need for the machine when it may not be there. Most people don't need a set of fine calipers either, but they're nice to have.

On the other hand, if you're for instance a hunter and want to be sure your skinning knife is ultra sharp at the tip, you could concentrate your efforts there, test it on the EST until it gets to 100 so you know you'll make a sharp clean cut with the most ease, and not even have to waste your time trying to get the rest of the blade to the same level. Then on top of that, once you do such a thing, you'll probably be able to more easily remark, "Well, maybe I don't need to spend so much time to get the tip to 100 BESS to skin the critters, i could save some time and just sharpen it until it's at 300." No guessing running a blade across your finger tips but not being able to tell because they're moist from handling fish or game and the feel is different, or accidentally cutting receipts you need 'cause it's the thinnest piece of paper in the house, or going to work looking like you have mange because you've got tons of bald spots on your arm... It doesn't sound like a big deal but it's nice.

One thing I'd suggest be included with the machine is some calibration weights instead of and/or in addition to the shot. If you had for example 4 calibration weights that were 50 grams each, then it gets really quick just putting 100 grams on the platen and testing if an edge is "sharp enough" because it falls under the 100 grams. I don't think these types of weights are very expensive and it would be more convenient than measuring and letting the shot spill into the cup, especially if a person wants to use the device without a scale. No scale is needed if you just want it to be within a certain range. Then if you also want to measure what BESS rating it is at, but it's between 50 and 100, you can put a 50 gram weight in a cup and fill with water until it severs and still measure it all the same--but on the up side less water is needed, and you don't have to worry about spilling shot everywhere.
 
Thanks a bunch for so generously sharing your thoughts! You definitely make some credible points.

Just search Amazon for "precision weights". They are cheap and plentiful. I'm sure it would be better for you to choose what you think is appropriate.

Are you guys using syringes for water? One cc of water happens to weigh one gram. You can get large syringes from a large animal vet. You really don't even need a scale.
 
Ankerson, do you have any thicker blades like the Izula? I'd be curious to see what happens in comparison to your other knives.


OK, Here is the GSO 4.1, M390, 20 Degrees Per Side and .035" behind the edge, .155" thick.

Out of the Sheath, tested before, reviews etc:

200, 203, 203 = Ave 202


Sharpened tonight:

150, 154, 150 = 151.3


DSC_5357.JPG
 
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Had a chance to run another handful through the BESS-o-meter. One of my favorite ways to use this is to check consistency from heel to tip.

Had thought my numbers were becoming pretty uniform based on the materials I'm using, but with a bit of extra finesse am able to push it down quite a bit. This unit could potentially keep me more honest in my efforts.



First up, my Tramontina 14" bolo, 1070 steel, 30° shallow convex
- 61 average

Leatherman 154cm, 30°V bevel
- 54

Eskabar D2, 30° V bevel
- 62

Mora Classic (not laminated), 26° Scandi with very shallow convex
- 42

All of the above done on Washboard with stock compound as I normally would sharpen and use them. I had thought the materials/technique might top out in this range, excepting the earlier standout in the teens on s110v which I attributed to the high RC allowing the abrasive to act as a finer grit. All would treetop hair reliably.

Prep'd one more, really paid attention and finished as light as possible, using the stock compound with rub down of the larger grit.

EKA H8, 12c27 approx 28° V bevel
- 16

Am still not down to where Jason is reporting the weight of the platen alone on cutlery - wondering what the inclusive angles are and steel types/RC. I cannot quite get to there using just the Washboard and working at inclusive angles > mid 20s. I intend to redo some of these knives on my waterstones to see if the numbers can be dropped any further, but I just plain old might not have enough of the same Mad Flavor he uses!
 
Jim, I saw the little pile of BESS media in the pic and my mind instantly went to thoughts of big piles of sisal cord and cardboard...

I just got up a little while ago, and yet I think I need another nights sleep. [emoji57]
 
Jim, I saw the little pile of BESS media in the pic and my mind instantly went to thoughts of big piles of sisal cord and cardboard...

I just got up a little while ago, and yet I think I need another nights sleep. [emoji57]


That's just from when I 1st got it until now. :D

Waiting on the extra media to get here before I start my 1st test run. :)
 
Had a chance to run another handful through the BESS-o-meter. One of my favorite ways to use this is to check consistency from heel to tip.

Had thought my numbers were becoming pretty uniform based on the materials I'm using, but with a bit of extra finesse am able to push it down quite a bit. This unit could potentially keep me more honest in my efforts.



First up, my Tramontina 14" bolo, 1070 steel, 30° shallow convex
- 61 average

Leatherman 154cm, 30°V bevel
- 54

Eskabar D2, 30° V bevel
- 62

Mora Classic (not laminated), 26° Scandi with very shallow convex
- 42

All of the above done on Washboard with stock compound as I normally would sharpen and use them. I had thought the materials/technique might top out in this range, excepting the earlier standout in the teens on s110v which I attributed to the high RC allowing the abrasive to act as a finer grit. All would treetop hair reliably.

Prep'd one more, really paid attention and finished as light as possible, using the stock compound with rub down of the larger grit.

EKA H8, 12c27 approx 28° V bevel
- 16

Am still not down to where Jason is reporting the weight of the platen alone on cutlery - wondering what the inclusive angles are and steel types/RC. I cannot quite get to there using just the Washboard and working at inclusive angles > mid 20s. I intend to redo some of these knives on my waterstones to see if the numbers can be dropped any further, but I just plain old might not have enough of the same Mad Flavor he uses!

Seems like those sub 50 levels are quite the effort.
 
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