EdgePro copy sharpeners

cbwx34 said:
I got a "generic edge pro" back in 2012... here's what I posted back then...



After a few months, the suction cups quit working, and plastic (or whatever it is) started flaking off where the sharpening rod went thru... making it basically unusable.

Conversely, my approx. 10 year old "real" Edge Pro, even though I don't use it as much as I used to, still works just fine when I pull it out.

Maybe the generics are improved... but can't beat the real deal IMO.
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I notice you say "suction cups" and that leads me to believe you bought the one with multiples rather than the one with a single big suction cup.

As to the other stuff, yes, you can absolutely get great, mirror polished edges, I've had two before I moved on. Both were far more than acceptable, especially for the price. I used the supplied stones and I like them just as much and in some ways more than congress moldmasters.

Some of this stuff in threads like these are pure bologna and others arent specific enough to rely on.
 
robgmn said:
Some valid points Fishingfool, but are they more reasons for pushing someone to buy the original instead of a copy, as opposed to reasons that make the copy "bad"?

How massive is the "slop" level?

Not bad at all with the couple I've seen and used. About the same as a wicked edge without the upgraded joints. For the truly OCD it might pose some kind of issue but for most people great edges are obtainable with a little practice, some magnets, a sharpie, and some kind of angle meter. I've only used the Ruixin Pro and Adaee stones regarding these models, though.

Does it still exceed the precision you could get by freehanding?

Yes, usually. There are some really skilled freehand sharpeners though so not always.


I've seen several copies and the tolerances seemed tight enough to maintain at least a portion of a degree of accuracy after setup.

Agree

How many freehanders can do that (you know, the ones who say "systems" are bad, because you might need to sharpen "in the field")?

Outside of knife or razor forums, likely almost none.

What degree of precision is needed, given what so many knives here are claimed to be used for?

Less than what you get with some of these $35 generic models

Is the knife edge ruined if you sharpen it to an inclusive angle of 22 degrees versus 20 degrees?

No, although the edge retention is affected by even a couple of degrees with most steels. And you should probably use an angle meter rather than the marks on the rods, regardless of who it came from, if precision is your ultimate goal.

Is it ruined if you are just touching up and using the Sharpie method to match the angle without knowing the numbers?

No, these are precise enough to stay true once set with an angle meter or matched to an existing edge angle

How bad is a bad stone?

I don't doubt some of these generic version stones are warped or cracked or whatever. I've had three sets and none were bad enough they didn't leave a hair whittling edge ready for polishing compounds

Someone with skill can achieve hair-popping sharp using a cinderblock and some cardboard.
Can one of these stones be worse than a cinderblock?

I'm sure some can be but none I've personally seen
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Answers in quote
 
i already tossed my input in, but i will say without modifying the clones and adding nice stones they are junk. the one i own is kinda designed like an edge pro kinda not though...about the only thing it uses the same is the stones and plates. also the colored marks on the rods mean absolute dick.. no matter clone or original if you want actual angles you have to measure them for each and every blade, and compensate for stone wear.
as far as slop, mine is rather tight, wouldnt call it sloppy at all. that said i have modified it quite a bit...
 
I kinda' wondered why those marks were even on the original, given that the static angle of the blade is going to be different for many different knives.

The other thing I didn't mention about slop and accuracy is the fact that on the EdgePro, the blade is supposed to be held in place with one hand while you sharpen with the other.
I'm right-handed, which means I would do fine with the knife handle on the left, but terrible when the knife handle is on the right ('might as well rub my hand in a circle on my chest while patting my head).
Talk about an accuracy killer...
 
vilePossum said:
So even though nobody seems to care I will just leave this here because I am a nice guy.

www.dr-henschke.de/Bauanleitung.html

Gesendet von meinem SM-T813 mit Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I actually think that's pretty cool. :thumbup:


robgmn said:
I kinda' wondered why those marks were even on the original, given that the static angle of the blade is going to be different for many different knives.

The other thing I didn't mention about slop and accuracy is the fact that on the EdgePro, the blade is supposed to be held in place with one hand while you sharpen with the other.
I'm right-handed, which means I would do fine with the knife handle on the left, but terrible when the knife handle is on the right ('might as well rub my hand in a circle on my chest while patting my head).
Talk about an accuracy killer...
Click to expand...

Actually, unlike most guided devices (mainly the one with clamps), the EP is fairly consistent. If you follow the directions, the majority of blades are placed so that the edge is right at the edge of the blade table... so the markings are consistent regardless of blade size... (although some knives do have to be set a bit different).

As for switching hands... it did seem a bit weird to me too at first, but wasn't that hard to get comfortable with... and trust me, I'm definitely not the poster child for coordination. ;) I just learned to slow down and pay more attention on the 'opposite' side.
 
For less than $ 32.- shipped, it is hard to beat the Ruixin Pro. (the one with the large suction cup base)

The older versions which are more like the original Edge Pro often come with Adaee stones which I think are poor quality but the Ruixin stones are not bad at all.

To my Ruixin, I added a 3 piece set of diamond stones (200, 500 & 800 grid) for $ 9.95
A 20x20x10 mm Neodymium magnet which is strong enough to keep my knives in place for $ 5.-
A drill stop collar for $ 2.-
And I also made 6 aluminum blanks from a 1 meter strip of aluminum which was $ 6.- to be used with 3M polishing tapes

So everything you see in the picture (except the knife) for just $ 55.-

21359795031_57e70cf82b_c.jpg


22442920423_788b26efd3_c.jpg


I later also modified the pivot with a $ 5.- ball joint rod end.

26419206891_2b7f8074b3_b.jpg


Years ago I had the original Edge Pro but never liked it and sold it again. This is my personal opinion and I certainly do not want to say anything bad about the Edge Pro but I think that the Ruixin is at least as good if not better.

Frans
 
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edge pro copy user hear,but had to make ajustments by removing the slop from its arms!i replaced the crap stones with EP ones-a must)and i got this 2014 version to work for me,if you don't have time to spend doing all this! then just get the real deal edge pro and be done with it.. note hear: i wasn't getting 100% on my bevels with the stock pivot arm no matter what i tried!so i did the same as member FVDK had done,and replaced the pivot arm with 8mm ball joint rod end also replaced the arm it self with a threaded one,so now able to get 100% with out any slop,it was a cheap investment about $7.00 a set of these ball end joint rod ends,and the will to make grate bevels.:thumbup:
 
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robgmn said:
I kinda' wondered why those marks were even on the original, given that the static angle of the blade is going to be different for many different knives.

The other thing I didn't mention about slop and accuracy is the fact that on the EdgePro, the blade is supposed to be held in place with one hand while you sharpen with the other.
I'm right-handed, which means I would do fine with the knife handle on the left, but terrible when the knife handle is on the right ('might as well rub my hand in a circle on my chest while patting my head).
Talk about an accuracy killer...
Click to expand...
I had the same problem,sold it.
 
bonzodog said:
I had the same problem,sold it.
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I didn't mention that I ditched the little white plastic edge, put some anti-skid mat under the metal plate and just clamp the blade under it instead of holding it in FRONT of it.
I like that magnet idea though.
 
malaverdiere said:
Do you have an English translation of this? This looks really interesting!
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Well, Google translates it, but if you have some questions I will gladly answer them to my best knowledge...

Note that I am in no way affiliated with that site.

Gesendet von meinem SM-T813 mit Tapatalk
 
I have the Edge Pro copy - the first version. Got it on sale for $26 shipped, bought it a couple of years ago, also bought one additional set of stones for $4 or $5 I think. The actual sharpening system is not bad at all, most likely the angles are not exact, but you get nice equal bevels, which is more important. I went through the first set of stones (to be exact - the 180 and 400 grit stones) that come in the box - they wear out relatively quickly, lets say you have about 30-40 full sharpenings or reprofilings before they are gone. The higher grits are almost identical - 1500 is exactly as the 3000. Now I am thinking of getting some diamond plates - 200 and 400 grit, and that will be all.

The stones have no problem sharpening wear-resistant beasts like S90V and S110V, they eat ZDP-189 and HAP40 for breakfast. They just wear out quickly. They also need leveling every 2 or 3 sharpenings - I use a diamond plate for that. The second set is fairly new - I have a couple more years before they give up. A word of advise - always wet the stones and put some dishwasher liquid on them - that prevents them from clogging and actually increases their life.
 
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