EdgePro: Holy Crap

I decided to put the ol' EdgePro to a serious test. No more thin kitchen knives profiled to 15 degrees anymore. Oh no. I decided to put a scary edge on my S30V Paramilitary.

As you might expect, this took a bit longer and put my forearms to the test. But after a little more than an hour, I now have a polished, 10-degree edge on the Paramillie, with a tiny microbevel at about 12 degrees, just to be sure that the 3000-grit tape was the last thing to touch the few molecules at the edge.

I don't use my Para on anything tough; we'll see how it holds up at this angle.

It's a beautiful thing. The bevel on this knife is probably almost 1/4" of mirrored goodness. I just checked: I can see myself in it. :cool:
 
spyderknut said:
Should I get a Pro or Apex model?
Click to expand...
If you have the money, I would suggest getting the Pro model. It is extremely well made.
 
I mine from the same place about the same time. Perfect bevels that run from heal to tip. At first watching the DVD the pro model looks better then the Apex, but using it I could not be happerier. Added up what I have into lansky (diamond stones) DMT large two sided, etc. It would have been much cleaper to bit the bullet early and invest in the edge pro. One note: still used my Sharpmaker after 1000 grit tape to get micro bevel. Works great!!!
 
woodysone said:
One note: still used my Sharpmaker after 1000 grit tape to get micro bevel. Works great!!!
Click to expand...

Why'd you decide to use the Sharpmaker for the microbevel instead of the EdgePro? Just curious.
 
Shmackey said:
Why'd you decide to use the Sharpmaker for the micro bevel instead of the EdgePro? Just curious.
Click to expand...
I do the same, Shmackey. All my knives that I double bevel (most of em) get the second bevel set at 15 or 20 degrees so that they can be touched up on the Sharpmaker. Once a month or so, I'll touch up the secondary on the Edgepro. Once every couple days I'll use the Sharpmaker like a steel. Nice light strokes just to touch up the edge. I find it easier this way for knives with deep hollow grinds that don't sit flat and stable on the Edgepro or recurves. That said, there is still no substitute for setting that nice crisp edge than the Edgepro.
 
smegs said:
I do the same, Shmackey. All my knives that I double bevel (most of em) get the second bevel set at 15 or 20 degrees so that they can be touched up on the Sharpmaker. Once a month or so, I'll touch up the secondary on the Edgepro. Once every couple days I'll use the Sharpmaker like a steel. Nice light strokes just to touch up the edge. I find it easier this way for knives with deep hollow grinds that don't sit flat and stable on the Edgepro or recurves. That said, there is still no substitute for setting that nice crisp edge than the Edgepro.
Click to expand...

I agree with using the 204 as a touchup unit, but he seemed to be saying that he didn't use the EdgePro even to set the initial microbevel. Maybe I misunderstood.
 
Shmackey said:
I agree with using the 204 as a touchup unit, but he seemed to be saying that he didn't use the EdgePro even to set the initial microbevel. Maybe I misunderstood.
Click to expand...

I don't own an EdgePro anymore <sigh>, but I would not use the EdgePro to set the initial microbevel. After all, if you've set the edge thin enough, the microbevel only takes a few passes on the Sharpmaker to be established. Tons easier...

Matthew
 
This is GREAT! I just ordered my EdgePro Apex on Saturday. It's going under the tree, though, so I have to wait a bit for it.

But it is good to hear/read all of the good reviews. I can hardly wait to get a mirror polish on my edges.
 
Edge Pro meets D2 :D

IMG_5500.jpg
 
The fastest way that I have found to put on a good edge is to reprofile the edge using a coarse Edge Pro stone, then immediately switch to the white stones on the Sharpmaker. This produces a extremely sharp edge quickly. Even though you skip the majority of the steps, the edge still looks better than most factory knives. When I really want a mirror edge, I go through all the steps and finish off with 4k polishing tape.
 
Just one thing to remember with the Edge Pro. Put painters/masking tape on the blade, to protect it from the slurry that runs on to the shelf. I've scratched a few blades. Although if you are sharpening a knife, it's probably a user anyhow.

Other than that, Edge Pro is the absolute best, hands down.
 
Thanks for the tape tip. I'll be putting new edges on my mother-in-law's kitchen knives over Christmas and would hate to scratch them. I'll be careful!
 
It would appear that the edgepro is superior exquipment as compared to the lansky, but does it operate any differently? Or does the edgepro just do the same thing as the lansky with more adjustability of the angle and with larger stones?
 
Update:

I originally said I was having trouble getting the stones to hit the heel of an edge when holding the knife in my right hand. Turns out this was because I inserted the rod apparatus incorrectly, such that the rod wasn't centered over the unit. It was backwards, so the rod was over on the right. Not sure what I was thinking. I did it correctly later and everything is great.

Fixed Blade Fever said:
It would appear that the edgepro is superior exquipment as compared to the lansky, but does it operate any differently? Or does the edgepro just do the same thing as the lansky with more adjustability of the angle and with larger stones?
Click to expand...

From what I can tell, the EdgePro is different in that it (1) doesn't clamp the blade, which has pros and cons; (2) has bigger and better stones; (3) is built better; and (4) allows you better control and more/less pressure because it's a tabletop unit.
 
The one thing that I do not yet understand is when you are using the polishing tape, do you use the same stroke as you use with the stones? I mean stroking from the edge toward the spine of the knife? This looks like it would cut the tape. I have an edge pro, but I am still learning with it and I have not tackled the polishing tape yet. Help!
 
Yes the same way but dont put pressure on the tape. just let it slide over the edge using the weight of the stone/arm.
 
Ok, another question. How careful do you have to be to avoid grinding the edge off center? Do you avoid this by visual inspection or is there a way to easily measure this?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top