emerson break in tips?

[cabbagejazz]

so I guess Im sending it in.... fuck. bladeplay and the lock moves now. Not even a week of carry!

 

[Lapedog]

so I guess Im sending it in.... fuck. bladeplay and the lock moves now. Not even a week of carry!

Sometimes the lockbar lockface wearing onto the tang will leave a black mark on the tang lockface. Try cleaning that black mark off the tang lockface with a qtip and some rubbing alcohol and see if that doesn’t fix the problem.

Also Emersons come new with this crappy copper flecked grease as pivot lube. I always take my new Emersons apart and clean out all the old grease and replace it with a higher quality lube. That helps the action significantly.

 

[mt666tm]

Your lockbar position is where I got my old horseman to with many years of very hard use. It's not typical of a new knife to engage that late.

Your knife has what is called "late lockup" by the way.

That blade play is called "lock rock" = typical with worn out lockbar and very late lockup after many years of use.

If you open the blade half way and shake the knife can you hear something rattling? If yes this is your blade stop pin. Waving the knife open can cause it to stretch out the holes in the liners (again, after years of use). To fix this it you can remove the scales and hit the stop pin on both sides repeatedly and carefully with a hammer while it is in the liners and backed with a table clamp or block of steel. This will deform the ends of the pin and tighten the fit to the liners. It might bring your lockup back enough. I just did this to my recently acquired '98 Commander and I now have early lockup

If that didn't work, then I've done the following with a couple of my knives with success: Take the knife apart and take out the lock bar stop pin. Now pick a drill bit that is ever so slightly larger (use calipers to measure). Drill out the liners, and cut off a piece of the drill bit to use as your new lockbar pin. This wider pin will cause the blade to stop opening just a hair earlier, and the lock bar will therefore engage earlier. If you have a lathe you could turn a stepped pin and it would have the same end result without having to drill out the liners.

Sending the knife to Emerson is probably the best way to go since you got it new. I just like doing this sort of thing myself so I can have the knife back in my pocket by the time I slam a couple beers.

FYI:
This is "early lockup". I've got a couple like this, and this is ideally how I'd like to get a new knife.

Anywhere from the above to here is "normal lockup"

Anything past this is Late, and will get the treatment I've outlined above.

Sorry for the big pics. I found them on google.

 

[cabbagejazz]

Your lockbar position is where I got my old horseman to with many years of very hard use. It's not typical of a new knife to engage that late.

Your knife has what is called "late lockup" by the way.

That blade play is called "lock rock" = typical with worn out lockbar and very late lockup after many years of use.

If you open the blade half way and shake the knife can you hear something rattling? If yes this is your blade stop pin. Waving the knife open can cause it to stretch out the holes in the liners (again, after years of use). To fix this it you can remove the scales and hit the stop pin on both sides repeatedly and carefully with a hammer while it is in the liners and backed with a table clamp or block of steel. This will deform the ends of the pin and tighten the fit to the liners. It might bring your lockup back enough. I just did this to my recently acquired '98 Commander and I now have early lockup

If that didn't work, then I've done the following with a couple of my knives with success: Take the knife apart and take out the lock bar stop pin. Now pick a drill bit that is ever so slightly larger (use calipers to measure). Drill out the liners, and cut off a piece of the drill bit to use as your new lockbar pin. This wider pin will cause the blade to stop opening just a hair earlier, and the lock bar will therefore engage earlier. If you have a lathe you could turn a stepped pin and it would have the same end result without having to drill out the liners.

Sending the knife to Emerson is probably the best way to go since you got it new. I just like doing this sort of thing myself so I can have the knife back in my pocket by the time I slam a couple beers.

FYI:
This is "early lockup". I've got a couple like this, and this is ideally how I'd like to get a new knife.

Anywhere from the above to here is "normal lockup"

Anything past this is Late, and will get the treatment I've outlined above.

Sorry for the big pics. I found them on google.

Thanks so much! I really wanted to love the knife but I've never had to do this much work to get a new knife working properly. It might just be the stop pin cause I hear it rattle but i think I'll just have to save up the money to send it to warranty. I wish I was confident enough in my tinkering skills to hammer the stop pin but on knives of $70 and up, I cant really consider them beaters. I only tinker on cheaper knives so I won't cry if I fuck it up out of warranty. Beaters are the usually the ones that need these type of repairs in my experience... But hopefully I just got a lemon.
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