Emerson Sharpening advice

ijustdontknow said:
Someone on another thread mentioned they use a sharpmaker. Use the 30 degree settings but prop it up so the rod on the right is perpendicular. I was having problems with a rolled edge on my CQC7A and used that method today. It works really well. Of course this was after I probably screwed up the original factory angle. I'm one of those people who probably shouldn't try to sharpen my own knives. :rolleyes:
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Your not talking aboot me are ye?
 
dr_fosg8 said:
I use light/medium pressure on the edge. Very light on the back side, only removing the burr there.
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I agree with dr_fosg8's technique -but of course whatever you end up doing that works for you is the best technique.

I used to send my CQC-15 to Emerson every year for a fresh edge, but eventually gave up on the "chisel" grind for my EDC as it wasn’t serving my needs well. I use my knife like a tool (which is why I bought an Emerson in the first place) and found that putting a variable bevel on it - increasing from a narrow tip to a wide grind at the belly with a toothy finish – gave me a sharper, longer lasting edge with greater cutting versatility.

It isn't going to win any beauty pageants - but it is sharper than factory and cuts with nothing more than the weight of the blade. It will slice tiny shavings of paper and shaves arm hair (though I find scissors and razors more suited for these tasks). In the real world, it will cut through 400# double wall corrugated cardboard like a hot knife through butter – literally. Cuts hosing, wire, rope and cording, chops kindling, and still slices a filet mignon with grace. And I can easily put any finish on the edge with my Work Sharp blade grinder – from mirror to toothy and everything in between. I mention this because if you are having difficulty getting the factory grind to re-sharpen to your liking, perhaps a different grind will suit your needs better and save you a lot of time and work.
 
Tried to touch up the mini 15 and think i made it more dull.... ugh! This was my first try with the with a recurve. I generally take my time and sharpie the whole ground chisel edge and it seems to me that in order to remove all the black from the edge i need to use an angle that is too shallow to raise a burr?? Stupid question but you do sharpen the whole ground chisel edge and not just the apex of the edge correct? Im so frustrated that i cant sharpen any emersons well except the 7 sometimes.
 
If I could give any advice to you, it would be to just send it in to the shop and have them do it. Trust me. My first Emerson was a mini 7 and I literally ruined the knife through experimentation. I still have it but now it just serves as a spare parts knife. I can put a mean edge on traditional v grounds but for some reason Emersons still give me some trouble, especially the recurves. If you don't send it in, invest 20 bucks in a ceramic hone. The hone is probably enough to keep the knife away from sharpening stone for a long while. Also, in my experience, the regular Smith's and Lansky guided rod is good. However, the preset angles don't really match that of the Emerson grinds. Good luck
 
Baker, just take your time and only sharpen on the original edge until you can feel the burr on the back side. What stones are you using?
 
dr_fosg8 said:
Baker, just take your time and only sharpen on the original edge until you can feel the burr on the back side. What stones are you using?
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i picked up one of the Oval sticks that emerson sells to use on the recurve.
 
If your talking about this one, http://emersonknives.com/shop/gear/the-ultimate-edge-5w/

It should take no time at all to raise a burr and knock it off on the back side. The specs say 600 grit, I have the diamond rods for the sharpmaker and I think those are 400 and I am not happy with the edge those leave on their own. I use the brown stones and then strop after. With that sharpener I would raise the burr on the backside then lightly knock it off. Then 5-10 light passes on the front side then 1 or 2 passes on the back.
 
dr_fosg8 said:
If your talking about this one, http://emersonknives.com/shop/gear/the-ultimate-edge-5w/

It should take no time at all to raise a burr and knock it off on the back side. The specs say 600 grit, I have the diamond rods for the sharpmaker and I think those are 400 and I am not happy with the edge those leave on their own. I use the brown stones and then strop after. With that sharpener I would raise the burr on the backside then lightly knock it off. Then 5-10 light passes on the front side then 1 or 2 passes on the back.
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Thats about what i TRY to do... im just messing up a fundamental along the way somewhere and I just can't figure it out
 
Don't let yourself get down in the dumps about it. You have a good knife and a good sharpener. The key is going to be easy on the pressure and speed.

Let the sharpener do the work, don't force it by going fast or pushing hard. Take 15-20 strokes on the edge then feel along the back for the burr. If no burr repeat. Once you have a burr take if off with 1 or 2 light passes on the back with the sharpener near to zero on the back.
 
dr_fosg8 said:
Don't let yourself get down in the dumps about it. You have a good knife and a good sharpener. The key is going to be easy on the pressure and speed.

Let the sharpener do the work, don't force it by going fast or pushing hard. Take 15-20 strokes on the edge then feel along the back for the burr. If no burr repeat. Once you have a burr take if off with 1 or 2 light passes on the back with the sharpener near to zero on the back.
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I will keep trying! Thanks for your time.
 
If you're using the Emerson method of holding the knife still and running the sharpener along the edge, remember not to "roll over" the edge when you get to the top. My biggest problem with that method is that I roll over the edge by curving my stroke... sort of like I'm drawing an arc with a pencil. Your stroke has to be kept straight to get the most benefit from this method.
 
I use a combination of the Lansky basic set (200,400, and 600 grit stones), a ceramic crock stick to remove burs, an old leather belt, and cotton web belt to strop with. It actually works pretty well for me.Between switching stones, I make a couple swipes on my ceramic stick, and then finish on my belts.

On several of my knives, I put a second bevel on the unsharpened side to see how it fares for use and sharpening. Keeps up very well and is just as easy to maintain IMO.
 
i only have a spyderco sharpmaker, i suppose that is no good for any sharpening on the emerson?
 
zephyr11 said:
i only have a spyderco sharpmaker, i suppose that is no good for any sharpening on the emerson?
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Actually, it'll work fine. You can take a SM rod and use the corner just like the videos on Emerson's web site show. Or, you can use it in the traditional way by adjusting the angle that you hold against the rods in the base. Use a sharpie and mark your bevel, then adjust your angle until you're sharpening off the marker. That means you're hitting the edge and sharpening the knife.
 
Ernie used to recommend taking the bevel side down to whatever grit you like and then just using the back of a legal pad to remove the burr. This works very well and saves the finish on the non-bevel side of the blade as you move it at near 0 degrees.

Mark
 
bobnery said:
I know it says you did this on the 30, but just wanted to verify it is the 30 and not the 40, seems awfully shallow.
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Bobnery, it's possible the pic was taken with the stone on the 40° side. I have used it both ways depending on how close the factory edge is to either 35 or 40°.
 
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