Endmill Bits

Busto said:
I was wondering if that was more than 5 thousandths myself....When I cut the relief I just do a straight cut on the shoulders so much easier than trying to round the relief and serves the same purpose. I also use a 3/8" carbide endmill in fact I don't think I have ever replaced that particular endmill.
Click to expand...

I do understand what you are saying.....
But I get OCD on some things...
Good trait in some ways and bad in others.
Sometimes I can't tell.
 
Taximanny said:
I really don't believe this to be dangerous at all.
As long as everything is secure and bolted down.
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Well, that is kind of the problem. It may be rigid, but you are missing the iron mass that makes it safer. I have seen table jump before when you get the cutter feeding in the wrong dirrection. Please don't think a $60 cross slide won't snap like a twig. I think you are underestimating the force at work.
 
Taximanny said:
I do understand what you are saying.....
But I get OCD on some things...
Good trait in some ways and bad in others.
Sometimes I can't tell.
Click to expand...

A nice clean square cut will look much better than the divots and gouges...I know this is an area that is unseen in the final product however being OCD myself I would not even show this attempt until it was dead nuts perfect...but that's just me....Don't be fooled that this is not dangerous a Drill Press has its limitations as well as that cross slide vise not to mention blowing up carbide bits...:eek:
 
I do understand what you are saying about the final look, and squaring it off.
But if I can learn the radius I will use it.
And yes this was a test to see if it would even work or not.
And in no way would put these liners in my knife let alone a customers knife.
Until I refine this method my slippys will be liner less.

I'm not afraid to show my failures as I learn from them also.
This was to show anyone else that yes it can be done.
I have searched the Internet and didn't find anything like it. Except to NOT do it.


Maybe I shouldn't be doing it but for me washers are not an option on my slippys.
That's just me.

I'm in no way trying to start an argument just wanting the nicest piece of work I can make.
Which everyone strives for.
 
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We all want to put our best efforts out for display I hear you there...did you look at the link posted to the Tony Bose WIP on his fixture for doing this work where he actually rotates his steel fixture on a pivot with the liner secured to the fixture. You are close to his fixture but you are moving the X/Y axis of the vise where his vise is stationary and he pivots the fixture under the endmill.
 
Busto said:
We all want to put our best efforts out for display I hear you there...did you look at the link posted to the Tony Bose WIP on his fixture for doing this work where he actually rotates his steel fixture on a pivot with the liner secured to the fixture. You are close to his fixture but you are moving the X/Y axis of the vise where his vise is stationary and he pivots the fixture under the endmill.
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Great we are on the same page...
I can't afford a mill at the time and not sure if I would ever make that move as a hobbyist.

Yes I studied his technique very closely.
To be honest I can't figure out how the plate he made doesn't get away from him if the bit grabs.
For some reason that seems more dangerous to me than what I'm doing.
I have never milled anything to know the concepts.
So if I can't figure that out... I definetly don't want to try it and lose a finger. Lol

Maybe you can explain it better?
Is it the way he feeds it?
Seems like there would be no controll
 
Taximanny said:
Great we are on the same page...
I can't afford a mill at the time and not sure if I would ever make that move as a hobbyist.

Yes I studied his technique very closely.
To be honest I can't figure out how the plate he made doesn't get away from him if the bit grabs.
For some reason that seems more dangerous to me than what I'm doing.
I have never milled anything to know the concepts.
So if I can't figure that out... I definetly don't want to try it and lose a finger. Lol

Maybe you can explain it better?
Is it the way he feeds it?
Seems like there would be no controll
Click to expand...

You can see on the base block a couple of set screws sticking out. One of these appears to be for locking the pivot into the base block to keep the clamp plate from lifting out. As for controlling the rotation, that's all done by hand and takes a little bit of care. With the base block clamped and the set screw securing the pivot though, your hands will be well out of harms way of the mill. I suppose you could even make a wider base block with some stop pins to keep from over rotating if the piece did manage to get away from you.
 
I am really enjoying this subject and the great info. A few years ago I scored probably $1500 worth of end mills of assorted size for the silly sum of $20 at a yard sale and have been carefully using them in my drill press. They worked great for some wood gunstock inletting, also.

Not being a machinist, it's a learning curve for me and information here is beyond price. And a special thanks to you, Nathan.

I have been turning out mostly fixed blades for about 30 years in my present shop and it is still a learning experience.
 
A little update on this subject ....
I recieved my 4 flute 3/8 carbide end mill today and tried on the test piece again with good results.

I will be making a new hold down jig and testing it again shortly with pics to come.
 
Taximanny, while this photo isn't the best it gives you an idea. This was done on my mill but should apply.
It was also done on a very soft piece of aluminum. The 4-40 allen bolt holds the pin while you rotate the fixture
by hand. While on my knives I do it on ss it should work with any metal that you can mill. I'm quessing a surface
fixture plate on your cross slide table would help. I'm thinking before the contraptions get too out of hand you will
be seriously considering a mill. I took the idea off TB's tutorial.
Ken.
 
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Very nice
I'm dealing with a 3/32 pivot hole and need to anchor it better some how.. I'll have to try a set screw from the side I guess or a bolt that small bolted thru the jig.

So when you hand feed it does not grab the liner and spin ?

At what speed is your end mill spinning?
 
Lets just say I would'nt start the mill with the cutter sitting on the piece. It could grab it, but in literally
hundreds of folders and being careful no problems. I did harden the plate that the liner is fixed to- those
are 6-32 allen bolts and after awhile seemed to be "pulling" the threads. My mill is running about 1000
rpm's.
Ken.
 
Taximanny said:
Very nice
I'm dealing with a 3/32 pivot hole and need to anchor it better some how.. I'll have to try a set screw from the side I guess or a bolt that small bolted thru the jig.

So when you hand feed it does not grab the liner and spin ?

At what speed is your end mill spinning?
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i have done this many times, even held parts with visegrips and crescent wrenches. i will say this take precaution and have a clear understanding what climb milling and conventional milling are. your endmill is going to want to climb the whole time but you will need to pull against that force and conventional mill only. if you take your hand off the piece your rotating while the spindle is on it will spin out of control. roll up your sleeves and no gloves. do not take the process lightly you can get seriously hurt doing this if you lose focus for even a second.
 
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