Episode number 47 in the saga of my S110V Manix & Polite question of Ankerson

[Wowbagger]

craytab,

The K2 is a great knife but I am guessing you would have a problem with lock stick

I'm about the most do it yourself and do it right kind of person you would ever meet. I mean I was doing mechanical work and making money at it when I was 12 while living with my parents. I was Oxy/fuel welding and taking night courses in welding while I was still in high school and by then had taken factory training courses in mechanics and was working two part time jobs while in High School. By the time I was in my early twenties I had my own full size metal lathe and an industrial grade (500 lb) TIG welder.

I've rebuilt sports car engines assembling them from boxes of parts some one else took apart (the proverbial "Basket Case". I made the engine rebuild stand the engine is on.



I built my own pro level commuting bicycle out of Chro/Molly steel including brass brazing, silver brazing and TIG welding . . . mitering the tube ends on the lathe (long story).

I rode it today and this year makes it's thirtieth anniversary of almost daily use.

I could deal with a little lock stick.
Nah I would just take the K2 apart and smooth the surfaces, remate them or add a steel plate to the lock bar. Been doing stuff like that all my life.

I do have a little trouble going back in time and formulating and pouring my own steel for my S110V but kind of looks like that is next ehhhh ?

noseoil,

Just wondering if the edge might be a bit better if it was more toothy & not polished

Wonder no more sir that blade has been toothy about four times including once from the maker.
Toothy and shave sharp but not hair whittling. Each time . . . well except for the edge from the masterful makers which weren't any where near scrape hair off my arm sharp and would hardly bite my nail mostly scrape white stuff off my nail as it skidded down. As compared with my Golden, Colorado Para 2 which was seriously sharp and stayed that way through days of use.

ha, ha, I kind of wonder if they know how to sharpen this stuff. I may have to send it to Ankerson . . . oh wait . . . he doesn't even use the " " " proper " " " harder than vanadium carbide stuff. Gets great results though judging by rope cutting . . . well once the ol' Manix has been thinned out a bunch. P' poor until then but not his fault.

Let them sharpen it

Yah I had toothy and questionable. It got duller pretty fast.
I could understand the theory behind the coarse / toothy edge and just let the carbides do their thing. Only my carbides are wimps they just kind of go on vacation about mid way through the work day.

Lately I been thinking get some credit for it and trade up to a Sprig. 'Course the spring on the Spyderco site is what ? ? ? $300 and on amazon it is about $180

can't win . . .

 

[Wowbagger]

Toothy and vanadium carbide cleaving good time

I mean it isn't like I didn't go to town with the diamonds.



When I mentioned the paper wheels I was just thinking more surface feet per minute with finer grit for a polished edge. For instance I was "sharpening" my zirconium oxide bladed Boker this week end and attempting to do it with Si Carbide sticky back film on a glass plate in the Edge Pro. The edge is pretty decent but I wanted to go for hair whittling. I used 2000 grit then 5 micron. I helped it some but still wasn't as stellar as I hoped for. As I understand it if I go for the paper wheels and diamond and boooookoooo surface feet per minute on my 8 inch bench grinder I can get zirconium up to snuff. So probably would do the same on the S110V.

thaaassssall

 

[craytab]

craytab,




I'm about the most do it yourself and do it right kind of person you would ever meet. I mean I was doing mechanical work and making money at it when I was 12 while living with my parents. I was Oxy/fuel welding and taking night courses in welding while I was still in high school and by then had taken factory training courses in mechanics and was working two part time jobs while in High School. By the time I was in my early twenties I had my own full size metal lathe and an industrial grade (500 lb) TIG welder.

I've rebuilt sports car engines assembling them from boxes of parts some one else took apart (the preverbal "Basket Case". I made the engine rebuild stand the engine is on.



I built my own pro level commuting bicycle out of Chro/Molly steel including brass brazing, silver brazing and TIG welding . . . mitering the tube ends on the lathe (long story).

I rode it today and this year makes it's thirtieth anniversary of almost daily use.

I could deal with a little lock stick.
Nah I would just take the K2 apart and smooth the surfaces, remate them or add a steel plate to the lock bar. Been doing stuff like that all my life.

I do have a little trouble going back in time and formulating and pouring my own steel for my S110V but kind of looks like that is next ehhhh ?

noseoil,



Wonder no more sir that blade has been toothy about four times including once from the maker.
Toothy and shave sharp but not hair whittling. Each time . . . well except for the edge from the masterful makers which weren't any where near scrape hair off my arm sharp and would hardly bite my nail mostly scrape white stuff off my nail as it skidded down. As compared with my Golden, Colorado Para 2 which was seriously sharp and stayed that way through days of use.

ha, ha, I kind of wonder if they know how to sharpen this stuff. I may have to send it to Ankerson . . . oh wait . . . he doesn't even use the " " " proper " " " harder than vanadium carbide stuff. Gets great results though judging by rope cutting . . . well once the ol' Manix has been thinned out a bunch. P' poor until then but not his fault.



Yah I had toothy and questionable. It got duller pretty fast.
I could understand the theory behind the coarse / toothy edge and just let the carbides do their thing. Only my carbides are wimps they just kind of go on vacation about mid way through the work day.

Lately I been thinking get some credit for it and trade up to a Sprig. 'Course the spring on the Spyderco site is what ? ? ? $300 and on amazon it is about $180

can't win . . .

Well, congratulations. Guys like you should be able to figure this out. You don't need schmucks like me telling you anything. I wish you luck.

 

[K.O.D.]

I had major, major issues with the s30v blade in my pm2. It was badly chipping just opening mail and cutting tape and plastic wrap. I had it professionally sharpened, and a week of use and it was very bad. Sent it in to Spyderco, and after three weeks I received an email saying that the blade had a very bad and uneven heat treat, and should never have passed qc. They put a whole new blade on. Now it's just the typical S30v suck. I've hardly used it, will probably sell it.

But, they are a great company to deal with. [emoji106]

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

 

[Wowbagger]

craytab,

schmucks

You are no schmuck. I didn't mean that. You are trying to help me and talking edge tool ocology with me and I appreciate you.
Just want you to "have all the the back ground", as Hunter S. Thompson would say.

Thank you for your thoughts.

 

[craytab]

craytab,



You are no schmuck. I didn't mean that. You are trying to help me and talking edge tool ocology with me and I appreciate you.
Just want you to "have all the the back ground", as Hunter S. Thompson would say.

Thank you for your thoughts.

No worries. My s110v does fine when cutting stuff and even better after a sharpening. I sharpen "simple" though. No polished edges or other such things. Same with the K2. 10v is fun to use. I say quit worrying and keep cutting.

 

[Wowbagger]

K.O.D.

received an email saying that the blade had a very bad and uneven heat treat, and should never have passed qc. They put a whole new blade on. Now it's just the typical S30v suck. I've hardly used it, will probably sell it.

But, they are a great company to deal with.

Well that's encouraging.

I saw this vid last night and he was talking about extreme edges like I enjoy (thin) and how some times the process of grinding and dipping stresses the steel and micro cracks it. To fix that it needs to be ground back beyond the damage. I kind of feel like from all the resharpening I did when I kept going back to toothy that I got beyond some of that boundary but maybe not.

[oops just as I copied the address I notice this was from Cliff Stamp. Not saying good or bad it just happens to be what I was watching and trying to learn from]

All I can really do is shut up and be patient but it is more fun to talk about it so I do. It comes across as whining and complaining. I use it to enjoy the humor in it all . . . which comes across as being a smart ace. :thumbup: :thumbdn: :thumbup: :thumbdn: In my defense all I can say is I'm an only child and used to entertaining my self.

[video=youtube;oZxl7SSwa3A]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZxl7SSwa3A[/video]

 

[me2]

You're not the only one. My Manix in S110V is in a dead heat with some Cold Steel BD1. I wrote about it on the Spyderco forum. I'd planned to do more work but lost my enthusiasm.

 

[Wowbagger]

You're not the only one. My Manix in S110V is in a dead heat with some Cold Steel BD1.

Yes !
yah see ? yah see ? yah see ?

Apparently the person on my phone "didn't get the memo".

I mean . . . I WANT it to work. I could really use this Manix knife. It is so fine in many ways.
Hopefully I can get one that would make Ankerson smile. Ha, ha if I do I will buy a new Norton X stone and grind it thin just like his ! ! ! ! I can't wait ! ! ! !

PS: truth be told that new stone is on my short list come hell or high Manix. I just can't stop grinding these EDCs into what they COULD BE. My current stone is too small in diameter to clear the motor for knife grinding.