epoxy handle falure

Along with better epoxy, make sure you aren't getting the wood too hot when shaping if you are doing it on a machine. I had this happen with some scales on one of my earlier knives. In particular, wood that is cut cross grain seems more susceptible to this (the way most spalted wood is cut)
 
John L said:
Please try Loctite Speedbonder. The only way to break the bond is with torch. I have put a scale and liner bonded with this into a container of lacquer thinner, acetone and naptha for a week and nothing affects this stuff. I have never had a failure.
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Yes, Loctite Speedbonder 324 is incredible but it cures very quickly compared to most 2-part epoxies. If you can get the knife assembled quickly, I wouldn't hesitate to use it.

I use West Systems G-Flex though on all my knives.

I've glued quarters to the concrete street in front of my house with Speedbonder 324. Even with all the kids, they often stay there for months until someone manages to get them un-glued . . . probably an industrious teenager with a hammer and chisel.:)
 
logem said:
I use West Systems G-Flex though on all my knives.

I've glued quarters to the concrete street in front of my house with Speedbonder 324. Even with all the kids, they often stay there for months until someone manages to get them un-glued . . . probably an industrious teenager with a hammer and chisel.:)
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That is funny:D plus another vote for G-Flex
 
here's something interesting, take it for whatever value it has to you
earlier this year when I was getting started I made a few novice knives.
this is one where the pattern and design was so poor (i'm embarrassed to show it) that I just completed it for practice and left it outside on my patio since about the end of March
it's O1 steel and I'm by the coast so there is alot of moisture.

I don't know why the epoxy bond failed but notice how it's still held together in the middle where the 1 pin is.
I just took these pics and there is very low light outside

I remember a Mastersmith told me uses peened pins as the mechanical fastening and silicone as a sealer, no epoxy

7BB68127-79D7-4097-BA71-BDD2FC50FC75_zpspnjwtppy.jpg


950030AE-0399-4C3C-9C7C-D6DF98A8A1FA_zpszb2ullku.jpg


E0111B6E-D371-41F4-99C4-7C9394EC80AA_zpsokqontqz.jpg


9BB8D0A2-E0F0-43ED-B8BA-979E764E407C_zps0xhwh2o8.jpg


92550725-8383-4B4C-AA3A-1076918B91EA_zpspoujre41.jpg
 
Nothing beats mechanical fastening I see.
The old time trade knife slabs were fastened with multiple small pins. They did not have epoxy and did not leave things to chance. I also remember seeing pics of handles wrapped in copper wire or cord if I am not mistaken
 
I use T88 epoxy, bridge holes, pins, and only use spring clamps. If the mating surfaces are not flat don't try to force them flat with clamp pressure, this is just a recipe for disaster, get everything flat, then all you need is a spring clamp.
 
John L said:
Please try Loctite Speedbonder. The only way to break the bond is with torch. I have put a scale and liner bonded with this into a container of lacquer thinner, acetone and naptha for a week and nothing affects this stuff. I have never had a failure.
Click to expand...

Good stuff John! I use it.
 
Don, or John - which model of Speedbonder do you use? I read several different numbers, 312, 324, 325??

Has anyone tried that BladeBond epoxy yet?

Ken
 
Ken H> said:
Don, or John - which model of Speedbonder do you use? I read several different numbers, 312, 324, 325??

Has anyone tried that BladeBond epoxy yet?

Ken
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I use 324 & 326, can't tell any diff between the two. Be sure to get the right primer. I'll likely just stick with 324 from now on.
 
After reading Nathan's post, doing a google search and reading Ed Caffrey's warning....I think I will ditch the Devcon epoxy in favor of Acraglas, as I am a bit familiar with that stuff in bedding my Sako action. Maybe the Gflex as well. Matt Gregory has chastized me once or twice for using the Devcon....and it's past time to start using something with a better reputation and holding ability. Still getting solid advice here, fellas. Thank you.

I have a brand new set of the stuff Tracy sells at Midwest Knifemaker (USA knifemaker supply). Distributed by Bob Smith Industry. Black resin bottle, Yellow hardener bottle. I assume that stuff is like Devcon?
 
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Well I shaped the handles today and they didn't pop off yet so that's a good sign. I like the stainless steel look.Maybe I will try aluminium next. Should be easy to peen.
bravo_zpsoftbipse.jpg
 
The Gopher said:
I use T88 epoxy, bridge holes, pins, and only use spring clamps. If the mating surfaces are not flat don't try to force them flat with clamp pressure, this is just a recipe for disaster, get everything flat, then all you need is a spring clamp.
Click to expand...

yes I noticed one of the slabs was bowing out a bit.So If it pops off from there I will just fill with epoxy and hope it fills the gap
 
Where's the link to the "glue wars"? I don't recall which subforum it was on, but I do recall that Acraglass did very well.
 
Thanks Don - I'd like to try that, but I've got a good bit of Gflex and also some of that new stuff USAKnifemaker's is carrying called BladeBond that's designed just for knife scales. Been tested a good bit with good reports.

Ken H>
 
I think a good explanation for the popularity of Devcon is that it is sold by Jantz. I made the mistake of trusting them to sell good stuff early on. I went with the lots of bridge holes solution, and eased off clamping pressure.
 
fishface5 said:
Where's the link to the "glue wars"? I don't recall which subforum it was on, but I do recall that Acraglass did very well.
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Here is a part of it (I think);
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/337043-Glue-Wars-the-battlefield-is-set

Here's the easiest way to search Blade Forums;
https://cse.google.com/cse/publicurl?cx=000051236030827549219:_i6taktwi50
(I've only used this site a short while, but it seams to bring me plenty of results for my searches)
 
I love Speedbonder, as well, but only in certain applications. In order for it to cure properly, it requires an anaerobic environment. When I've used wood scales with it in the past, it wouldn't cure. Nonetheless, works great on synthetics or other less-porous stuff like bone.
 
thatsaknife said:
Well I shaped the handles today and they didn't pop off yet so that's a good sign. I like the stainless steel look.Maybe I will try aluminium next. Should be easy to peen.
bravo_zpsoftbipse.jpg
Click to expand...

Looking good, but you're burning the wood by overheating the pins as you're grinding and shaping the handle scales. That alone can compromise your epoxy. About the only thing that will consistently get ANY adhesive to fail is heat.
 
Yes tge steel pins caused burning but i wad going to leave the burn marks. I actually considered burning a few more spots for looks
 
thatsaknife said:
I actually considered burning a few more spots for looks
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Ha!! Creative fix for a problem!! Nice!!!!

I'd be interested to see how it turns out, if you do.

Learning not to get the pins hot is a tricky one, when you're first starting. Everyone does it. Sharp belts and patience are the key.
 
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