epoxy handle falure

My sister in law actually got a torch and burned her pine outdoor furniture. After sanding and varnishing it looked awsome the way the early and latewood took the burn.
I down own a belt sander i actually just stick a sanding disc on the side of my bench grinders stone.
 
That minimum space for the epoxy can be very important == .007 " .Brazing and soldering also have an ideal spacing both foe capillary action so the material flows well and is strongest ! Stick to .003" .
 
Congrats on getting the scales to stay in place thus far! It sure can be frustrating....

When I was doing my EnZo Trapper project, I searched around for the "best" epoxy (and forgot altogether about AcraGlas - it is amazing stuff!).

Anyway, I found this YouTube vid that did a great head-to-head comparison:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM4IGweHT2k

I've included it for the sake of discussion....
 
I think a good explanation for the popularity of Devcon is that it is sold by Jantz. I made the mistake of trusting them to sell good stuff early on. I went with the lots of bridge holes solution, and eased off clamping pressure.

Haven't tried the "bridge theory" with Gflex, but it sure doesn't work with D-Con. That stuff is just too brittle, no strength in that kind of configuration.
 
The Glue Wars thread I think started here and ended on KnifeNetwork because two of us were working on it didn't communicate very well. The thread is called Testing for the Ultimate Adhesive over there and is more than a bit long but is still a spanking good read. We had some interesting learnings from the process.

Cheers to Chuck at Alpha for helping to sponsor those tests.

Several glues performed fairly well but good or "bad" surface prep had a huge impact on the adhesives. I'd rather have a great surface prep and an average adhesive than a great adhesive with a poor prep.

Sandblasting is what glue makers do to test coupons when measuring their strength because they feel it is gives the best performance. My crude and unscientific testing using several methods proved that out.

Avoid Acetone, WD40, brake cleaners and soap when prepping. They all leave a film. Wipe some on a pane of glass and let it dry to see it. Alcohol or Windex worked best.

If you can't sandblast a surface, scratch it heavily with 40 or 60 grit.

(I'll put a disclaimer in now. I sell some of these so take this for what it's worth. I am not trying to shill any sales of glue here. I did the Glue Wars testing before I got in the trade.)

Gflex from the West Systems people is probably turning into many makers favorite for good reason. It's very good stuff. We use it our shop routinely when we make knives and we have more choices than most shops for something like that.

Acraglas and Speedbonder are proven, high performance adhesives. The short fixture time of Speedbonder makes it really handy to use. We use it in the shop when time is money and need a batch of something bonded quickly we can trust. Speedbonder 324,325, 326 is stunning stuff. It really works well when applied properly. It's expensive and goes out of date in a year or two. Don't use it past the expiration date. I've seen some failures from outdated Speedbonder. Acraglas is also awesome. I think it smells horrible but I know it works very well.

Bladebond is brand new, like just few weeks new. There are two formulations. The testing data looks very good and it was developed specifically for the knife industry by a guy that came from the adhesives/sealants trade in the fishing rod industry. He developed it to beat Gflex and has testing data to back that up. He has plans to get it into all the knife supply houses if they'll have him. I've used it and I think it's the real deal and I will continue using it going forward. It is expensive like the other high performance adhesives.
 
The Glue Wars thread I think started here and ended on KnifeNetwork because two of us were working on it didn't communicate very well. The thread is called Testing for the Ultimate Adhesive over there and is more than a bit long but is still a spanking good read. We had some interesting learnings from the process.

Cheers to Chuck at Alpha for helping to sponsor those tests.

Several glues performed fairly well but good or "bad" surface prep had a huge impact on the adhesives. I'd rather have a great surface prep and an average adhesive than a great adhesive with a poor prep.

Sandblasting is what glue makers do to test coupons when measuring their strength because they feel it is gives the best performance. My crude and unscientific testing using several methods proved that out.

Avoid Acetone, WD40, brake cleaners and soap when prepping. They all leave a film. Wipe some on a pane of glass and let it dry to see it. Alcohol or Windex worked best.

If you can't sandblast a surface, scratch it heavily with 40 or 60 grit.

(I'll put a disclaimer in now. I sell some of these so take this for what it's worth. I am not trying to shill any sales of glue here. I did the Glue Wars testing before I got in the trade.)

Gflex from the West Systems people is probably turning into many makers favorite for good reason. It's very good stuff. We use it our shop routinely when we make knives and we have more choices than most shops for something like that.

Acraglas and Speedbonder are proven, high performance adhesives. The short fixture time of Speedbonder makes it really handy to use. We use it in the shop when time is money and need a batch of something bonded quickly we can trust. Speedbonder 324,325, 326 is stunning stuff. It really works well when applied properly. It's expensive and goes out of date in a year or two. Don't use it past the expiration date. I've seen some failures from outdated Speedbonder. Acraglas is also awesome. I think it smells horrible but I know it works very well.

Bladebond is brand new, like just few weeks new. There are two formulations. The testing data looks very good and it was developed specifically for the knife industry by a guy that came from the adhesives/sealants trade in the fishing rod industry. He developed it to beat Gflex and has testing data to back that up. He has plans to get it into all the knife supply houses if they'll have him. I've used it and I think it's the real deal and I will continue using it going forward. It is expensive like the other high performance adhesives.
What is the preferred media and grit for sand blasting tangs?
 
good or "bad" surface prep had a huge impact on the adhesives. I'd rather have a great surface prep and an average adhesive than a great adhesive with a poor prep

tmickey: I think that sums the whole thing up nicely. I'm looking forward to working with this new Bladebond epoxy also - seems good.

Ken H>
 
Congrats on getting the scales to stay in place thus far! It sure can be frustrating....

When I was doing my EnZo Trapper project, I searched around for the "best" epoxy (and forgot altogether about AcraGlas - it is amazing stuff!).

Anyway, I found this YouTube vid that did a great head-to-head comparison:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM4IGweHT2k

I've included it for the sake of discussion....

Thank you
I have decided to try black or red gasket maker for the next project. I think with the right amount of spread and the xorrect clamping pressure it could work as well as give a liner looking seam
 
What is the preferred media and grit for sand blasting tangs?

When I was researching what manufacturers used it seems 60 grit sand or AO was used. I use a mix of AO and glass beads with a mix of 60 and 80 grit. I haven't had a rust problem with the AO but it could happen some day I suppose.
 
I give up. I'm switching to G-flex. Is it all the same or is there a certain one I'm looking for?

There is only one Gflex formula currently but it wouldn't surprise me to see a slower cure version come out in the future. Pot life now is around 15 to 20 minutes in small batches. Small is defined as enough to do one or two handles. Bigger quantities have a shorter pot life. I once mixed up 3/4 Dixie cup of West System and it got so hot as it cure it scorched my work bench. Most (all?) of these epoxies are sensitive to ambient temperature and need at least 70F to cure properly.
 
Having used epoxies in aerospace applications I would immediately suspect the brake cleaner as the primary cause of failure. As well as surface characteristics (roughness, etc). With any adhesive it is important to follow the manufacturers application instructions very closely.
 
One other thing... when mixing your two part epoxy, don't stop stirring until it is COMPLETELY integrated. No epoxy will achieve maximum strength if it is poorly mixed, so stir the heck out of it. Also, the slower an epoxy sets, the better. Don't be impatient and go for the quick set epoxy. You want the stuff that takes forever to set and 3X forever to become permanent.
 
One other thing... when mixing your two part epoxy, don't stop stirring until it is COMPLETELY integrated. No epoxy will achieve maximum strength if it is poorly mixed, so stir the heck out of it. Also, the slower an epoxy sets, the better. Don't be impatient and go for the quick set epoxy. You want the stuff that takes forever to set and 3X forever to become permanent.
I agree and I feel that the longer you can go without troubling the work the better. I have been guilty of impatience before.
I try and keep 2 projects going so if I get the urge to play around I can work on one while the other is drying, curing, setting, etc
Even still I messed up the handles because I wanted to get it done and probably messed up preparation
 
There is only one Gflex formula currently but it wouldn't surprise me to see a slower cure version come out in the future. Pot life now is around 15 to 20 minutes in small batches. Small is defined as enough to do one or two handles. Bigger quantities have a shorter pot life. I once mixed up 3/4 Dixie cup of West System and it got so hot as it cure it scorched my work bench. Most (all?) of these epoxies are sensitive to ambient temperature and need at least 70F to cure properly.

Is GFlex clear?
 
Yea, I guess amber is a good description of color. Pigment is a good thing when using color liners.
 
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