Estwing Hatchet steel

David Martin

David Martin

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Any of you hatchet experts know the steel Estwing used in their model E24A hatchet 20 years ago? Thanks, DM
 
Pray tell what is this going to tell you? Estwings (I only have experience with their hammers) are quite durable and have been for almost 100 years. That's plenty enough information for most of us.
 
300Six said:
Pray tell what is this going to tell you? Estwings (I only have experience with their hammers) are quite durable and have been for almost 100 years. That's plenty enough information for most of us.
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He asked a simple question. If you don't know, then why say anything. What difference does it make why he wants to know. It's a reasonable question. Good grief.
 
Thanks Scott. I didn't know and that answer was from some time ago so, I was hoping it was still accurate.
Anyway the steel preforms well on hammer and face. It takes a sharp edge quickly, coming off my Norton fine India stone.
Someone here said these hatchets are date stamped. Is that stamp at the butt of the handle?
Thanks, DM
 
300Six said:
Pray tell what is this going to tell you? Estwings (I only have experience with their hammers) are quite durable and have been for almost 100 years. That's plenty enough information for most of us.
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What a jerk! What is your problem? Enquiring minds want to know...
Russ
 
I am not a moderator, but would like to ask all members to keep the discussions civil, please. Thanks.
 
300Six said:
Pray tell what is this going to tell you? Estwings (I only have experience with their hammers) are quite durable and have been for almost 100 years. That's plenty enough information for most of us.
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We are knife/axe nuts. I think it is a good question. E.g. it might tell me, what type of steel is good enough to perform for such task yet still profitable enough for a company to use.
I think your lack of interest regarding this specific question is perfectly legitimate too, I just don’t think you should have expressed it in the way questioning the rationale of the OP’s approach.
I hope we can get back to discussing axes. :)
 
i don't have a clue about the steel used to make Estwing hatchets. i do have a couple of these hatchets, the smallest and the next size up.
the steel seems to be good and the heat treat is good also.
their size and weight limits their efficiency imho.
i have several of the hammers too, all missing leather handle rings. projects for the future, i spose.
there is a video on youtube showing manufacture of Estwing hatchets. i don't remember off hand if the steel type is mentioned
 
From the viewpoint of someone who hasn't had direct experience with the specific tools but knows the properties of the raw material it can help them get a rough idea of how the tool is likely to perform.
 
Lieblad said:
Who knows, perhaps their prybars, hammers, etc. are different steels.
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I would bet that their I-beam pry bars are made of something higher carbon than 1055. Those things are incredibly tough. I did eventually break one after 10 years of very hard service.
 
I guess I have one that is about 10 years old and I would like to know what the steel is. I have found mine to be a bit soft and if I could do a simple heat and quench it would be awesome.

I love how pretty the thing is. I have thought about welding in spring steel or and old file I think I have some INCO625 tig wire left over from a job.
 
It's 1055 steel. My axe is 20 years old and I can tell the hammer head is softer than the axe face. It takes and holds a good edge. I suppose you could weld a harder metal piece to the cutting face. Then shape that. I think a simpler route would be to give it a cryogenic treatment. A long soak in dry ice would pick up the hardness a point. Then give it a stress relieving quench with a torch wrapping the leather handle, to isolate the head. Could work. A weekend project. DM
 
I might try that.
Would you got to a full heat, quench, cryo quench cycle again or just the cryo?
Also would dry ice and acetone be enough or would I have to go for a full liquid nitrogen quench. I'm not really sure were to get the liquid nitrogen. That might be more than I want to spend for an Estwing.
What temp would I stress relieve at?
 
Don't complicate it. As Ln1 is hard to find and you'd need a Dewar to work with it. Plus, it's dangerous. Whereas dry ice can be found at grocery stores and it's cheap. Pack the dry ice around the blade in a cooler leave it for 12 hours or until the dry ice no longer remains. Then remove the axe, wrap the handle to protect it and give it a temper at 300-350* for 30 minutes. Heck, you can do that in a toaster oven. Just cryo treatment and quench. Good luck, DM
 
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