Etcher build question

The green wire is the ground FAULT wire. and should not be in an actual circuit.
But an easy way to explain it is attach the green wire to the case of the transformer and only the case of the transformer!

The black wire is the hot wire or common as refered to in electrical drawings and will go to the fuse.
the white wire is the neutral and will go to one of the black wires on the transformer.(the input wires on that transformer are BOTH BLACK) do not put 120v on one of the yellow wires it's not pretty and it stinks a bit when you do.

The black wire on the side with the 2 yellow wires is a center tap for voltage reduction or half the 24v out or 12v output. the yellow wires are for 24v ac out of the transformer
If you have any questions or problems with this build give me a call I will be happy to talk you trough the wireing of the switches and transformer. (870) 953-0118
 
Fletch Helical said:
Bear in mind guys I know nothing about electrical stuff. Which also includes reading wire diagrams. Jerry thanks for the diagram, I think I have some of it figured out by looking at it. But if I'm understanding it correctly that's setting it up as a 24v, right?

If I run the one black and one yellow (which I'm not even sure I'll know exactly what goes where till it's in front of me). Do I just tape off the remaining wires?

The explanations on Chris's website seem easier for me to understand but I don't want to go and melt my stencils either.

But this makes sense to me
Connect the following three wires using a twist on wire connector:
a. The green wire from the power cord (this is the ground wire)
b. The transformer wire #2 (see transformer diagram)
c. The transformer wire G that was connected to the transformer’s little tab
* (see transformer diagram)

So I get take the green wire from the power cord, the ground wire I soldered on to the transformer and the black wire between the 2 yellow ones. That explanation works for a kindergartner, a wiring schematic, to me, looks totally foreign.
Click to expand...

http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/knifeshop/etcher/electro-etcher_circuit.pdf

have a look at this diagram...
it is correct for 12 v
as long as you are using the CC parts, it also gives the info by wire colour too.

Green ground wire on from the power cord to ground wire you soldered on the outside of the transformer - AN NO WHERE ELSE.

If you really are that stuck, this is the kind of thing that is best done on person.
 
I'll likely have to call someone it seems to get me through this it would seem. I have to redo the fuse holder because after I soldered the wires on I couldn't get the nut past the ball of solder. But once that's done and I'm ready to wire it up I'm going to have to put in a call. Shouldn't take too long to get that done and be ready to go.

According to Chris's website though he's saying to wire those 3 wires together. However you guys are saying that is incorrect :confused:.

1-10 I don't know where all those colors are coming from. I cut all the pieces of wire myself like the site says and every wire is black, other than what had wires attached to begin with.
 
I noticed that the instructions on Chris Crawfords site and the schematic that 1-10 provided a link to, contradict each other. I didn't read through all of the instructions, because I'm not building it yet, but I noticed that the schematic seems to make more sense. A couple of things that slap you right in the head initially on CC's instructions, is the termination of the ground, and which transformer wire is being used. I think it has to do with which voltage you are running, 12 or 24, but CC is telling you to terminate all the wires??? Following the schematic seems easy enough, it's just that the individual parts aren't marked in most cases. For instance, the DPDT switch has 6 wires, but there is no numbering on it, so ow can you follow the schematic when you don't know which wire is what. According to CC all the wires are black, so color won't help either. I'm going through it to try and help other people and also to get the quirks out of the way, when I'm ready to build it. Any suggestions to help figure out what I mentioned are most welcome and appreciated.

Thanks Guy's

Jeff
 
Been haveing this problem alot lately, I will make another Diagram that is a bit easier understand. Give me a copule of days and It will be done.
Rusty
 
zaph1 said:
Can I send to to you when they are ready to be etched, Fletch?
Click to expand...

Can you send what to me?


Rusty I'm going to give you a call as soon as I know I'll be able to sit down for a bit and go through this with you. I'll forewarn you that it might be easier for you to just take the lid off yours and tell me where everything goes. Especially with regards to what goes where with the center off switch... Trying to determine what wires 1-6 coming off that are is going to be tricky for me.
 
Hey Fletch,

If you could do me a favor and send me the revised instructions, once you get it straightened out, that would be so cool.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Fletch Helical said:
Can you send what to me?


Rusty I'm going to give you a call as soon as I know I'll be able to sit down for a bit and go through this with you. I'll forewarn you that it might be easier for you to just take the lid off yours and tell me where everything goes. Especially with regards to what goes where with the center off switch... Trying to determine what wires 1-6 coming off that are is going to be tricky for me.
Click to expand...

Ive done this more than probably anyone on this forum I know the diagram by heart. and Ive built 20 or so of these for people. And I taught Marines before Im sure I can teach you how to do this.
 
Rusty is a Marine, he can cut'em up all he wants.:D Plus it's fun to see the Marines victimized:p:D

Let me add before I get assualted, my best friend was a Marine. Our best times together were cutting each other up!!!:D
 
Rusty McDonald said:
Been haveing this problem alot lately, I will make another Diagram that is a bit easier understand. Give me a copule of days and It will be done.
Rusty
Click to expand...

Rusty,

What issues have you been having with the diagram? I don't think there's anything wrong with it. How would you suggest making it any easier?

Let me know, and I'll change it . . . since I made it.

Mike LoGiudice
LoGiudice Custom Knives
 
A lot of people have problems with the switches and the fuse to switch wireing. No big deal I can take care of it
 
logem said:
Rusty,

What issues have you been having with the diagram? I don't think there's anything wrong with it. How would you suggest making it any easier?

Let me know, and I'll change it . . . since I made it.

Mike LoGiudice
LoGiudice Custom Knives
Click to expand...

Mike,

I don't know if you read my post up above. A couple issues are the schematic and Chris Crawford directions contradicting each other, and when following the schematic, the parts don't have the numbers on them to match the schematic. For instance the DPDT switch has 6 numbered wires. The actual part doesn't have any numbers on it. I haven't seen it, I'm just going on what other guy's have said.

Jeff
 
I'm quite sure that the SPST and DPDT switch had numbers on the terminals, thats why the diagram shows which terminal number should be used for each connection.

I'm away from my shop right now, so I can't take my etcher apart to inspect it. I'll check into it though.

The only contradiction that I am aware of is that my schematic shows the wiring for 12 volt output, while Chris Crawford's instruction will result in 24 volt output.

Mike LoGiudice
 
logem said:
I'm quite sure that the SPST and DPDT switch had numbers on the terminals, thats why the diagram shows which terminal number should be used for each connection.

I'm away from my shop right now, so I can't take my etcher apart to inspect it. I'll check into it though.

The only contradiction that I am aware of is that my schematic shows the wiring for 12 volt output, while Chris Crawford's instruction will result in 24 volt output.

Mike LoGiudice
Click to expand...

Mike

I love that schematic, it's crystal clear as far as I'm concerned...CC's instructions got me lost for sure...

Some people get overwhelmed with a schematic, but this pin on that part...follow the line to this pin on that part...pretty clear to me.

What I would change...
Make the labels on your diagram larger where you have space to do so...the print seems a bit small sometimes.
 
12345678910 said:
Mike

I love that schematic, it's crystal clear as far as I'm concerned...CC's instructions got me lost for sure...

Some people get overwhelmed with a schematic, but this pin on that part...follow the line to this pin on that part...pretty clear to me.

What I would change...
Make the labels on your diagram larger where you have space to do so...the print seems a bit small sometimes.
Click to expand...

Now wait, you misunderstood me...I think the schematic is crystal clear and I can easily do a build by it. I'm going by what I've been told that the parts don't have the numbers on them as the schematic suggests. I haven't seen the parts for myself though. Let me reiterate, I wouldn't change a thing on the schematic, it's great and easily followable. (I said that all in one breath)

Jeff
 
zaph1 said:
Sorry, my ADHD kicked , ooh, a moth. I meant to ask if I could send my blades to you to be etched.
Click to expand...

Unless there are other uses for it (which there may be) I was only going to use it to etch my mark on the blades. I don't think you want your knives with my mark on them :D
 
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