Evaluate My Bush Knife Designs Please

C_Kyle

C_Kyle

Joined
Feb 7, 2005
Messages
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What do you think of these two patterns:

20090730_BushPatterns.jpg


They are my interpretations of the Kephart and Nessmuk patterns. I've altered the Nessie a bit by rounding the but of the handle; it's more comfortable when palming the handle and chopping.

The Kephart:
1" tall, 4.3" handle, 4" blade, 3/32" 1095 steel, taper/convex edge grind

The Nessmuk:
1.5" tall, 4.6" handle, 4.5" blade, 3/32" 1095 steel taper/convex edge grind

Thanks,

ck
 
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very nice, I like them both especially the nessie. However, the tip of the kephart looks a bit too rounded down.
 
Thanks for the input. I have a Gryphon that I carried and used in the Army with a similar shaped blade. It looked a little strange, but I liked it, and it's found its way into several of my designs.
 
Thanks, here's a horrible pic of some stuff in the works, including the Kephart and Nessmuk.

P1010070.jpg
 
They look great to me, although I might add a lump to the back of the kephart handle. It isn't in the original design, but that tends to make the handle alot more comfortable (in my experience at least).
 
I think they're very nice. I would just like the tips to be pointier, especially on the Kephart. I love the overall flow of both knives though. Great job!
 
Looks pretty good. I'm not generally a nessie guy, but I can suggest two changes on the top guy. One, I'd make the depression for the first finger less deep. They get uncomfortable quickly when they're too small in circumference. Second, I'd make the tip less blunt/dropped. Looks nice and simple overall, though.
 
I really like both!
But I would echo what has already been said, the kephart's tip needs to be brought up a bit IMO. In other words don't make the spine drop down so much, and put a gentler curve on it.

Otherwise both look real nice!
 
I like the Kephart, at first I wasn going to suggest inverting the main curve on the underside that goes from the index cutout to the butt, but I dunno- I like your way. I would pull the bottom rear pin in a bit to have better handle material thickness down there and remove the two pointy bits at the butt.

the nessie needs a bit more rounding on the back :) that's a pretty intense handle curve, but i'll bet it works out well.
 
Here's a better pic of the top one:

P1010071.jpg


I like the weird, almost inverted drop point that I have going on; but, I'm listening. Eventually, I want to sell what I make, and can only sell what others will buy. I really do appreciate all the feedback.

I've modded the Nessmuk design to straighten out the handle a little and round the but, and I think it looks like it will be more comfortable. I'll post pics of the design tomorrow.

With the Kephart, I will add a slight hump to the handle, create a more symmetrical spear point, reduce the index finger cutout and maybe flatten the curve to the butt just a hair.

Thanks again for the feedback.
 
One more question: Who thinks the Kephart blade should be taller than 1", maybe 1.25"?
 
For outdoors work, I think one really needs a knife with an acute point.

So, from what I am seeing, I think that may be your next challenge.

Marion
 
Here's the updated Nessmuk and Kephart designs:

20090730_BushPatterns_V2.jpg


I flattened the curve of the handle on the Nessmuk, rounded the butt more, and moved the lanyard hole in.

The Kephart, I increased the height to 1.25", the handle is 4.7", the blade is 4.3". I added a slight swell to the top of the tang, elongated and reduced the height of the index finger cutout. The curve of the butt is asymmetrical; I wanted a more gentle curve at the top of the butt for palming the but of the knife.
 
Looking really good.

What sort of steel are these made of?

Will they have flat grinds or convex? (Or Hollow?)
 
what kind of grinds are we talking about?

The handles seem too far forward to allow room for the grinds....and, more importantly, for sharpening...unless you are having a "flat spot" before the grinds start - an extended ricasso. But I've always felt that it put the edge too far away from the hand for up-close detail work requiring controlled leverage.

There also seems to be too much curve in the underside of the nessmuk handle to make it practical to hold in your hand. "Choking up" on the handle wouldn't be very comfy.


Hey, you asked. :D


Sometimes designs have great lines and look great on paper and then when you cut them out just don't feel right. It's very important to go through this step and re-evaluate.

I applaud you for doing it.

:thumbup:

Dan
 
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Currently, the two are 3/32" 1095. I intend to do convex edge grinds, or taper grinds, whatever the correct terminology is. I was planning on having a flat spot before the edge starts; but, I'm new to this and am learning what works and what people like, thanks to the great feedback.

Here's the evolution so far:

20090731_NessmukEvolution.jpg


Daniel, the third version is starting to look like one of yours. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel; but, I don't want to copy others' designs.
 
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