Evaluate My Bush Knife Designs Please

wulfshrunting said:
Here's the updated Nessmuk and Kephart designs:

20090730_BushPatterns_V2.jpg


I flattened the curve of the handle on the Nessmuk, rounded the butt more, and moved the lanyard hole in.

The Kephart, I increased the height to 1.25", the handle is 4.7", the blade is 4.3". I added a slight swell to the top of the tang, elongated and reduced the height of the index finger cutout. The curve of the butt is asymmetrical; I wanted a more gentle curve at the top of the butt for palming the but of the knife.
Click to expand...


That Kephart looks badass now, I really like the changes. :thumbup:
 
I like the "pointy" handle butt on the first one (nessmuks in post #20)...maybe return to that but with the lanyard moved farther in like on the last one?

I think with the curve "pushed forward" (underside of the handle) it works better. And since you're doing full convex, you can go ahead and leave some ricasso and move your handle forward. Others have done this with success (like version 2). It is nice to have a little extra handle width close to the edge - for comfort reasons.

Nice progression!

Dan
 
Daniel has a good point with handles, but you can decide how that's going to work best by doing it each way. I like the third version of the nessmuk style- the semi-guard isn't as needed on a drop edge of that type. (I've made some drop edge nessies like this in sizes from necker to 6 inch blades, and it's a style that's going to look eerily similar from maker to maker- much like a french chef's knife or a boning knife would. Don't sweat it. If you do, Talfuchre is going to pop in and educate us on Platonic Forms :D :D :D )


The keppie- IMHO (this is one reason I haven't done a keppie yet, I'm struggling with the perfect minimalism) I think that once you build too much in it stops being a "kephart" and starts becoming an... um... American drop Point woods knife. The Kephart- I think- was supposed to have been an inexpensive minimalist knife. On that thought process I'd go 1 inch and not 1.25, keep the blade to 4 inches, and minimalize the handle. But-

As far as what you've got there- the semi guard is a tradeoff with the flat spot on your grind. Both the semi-guard style and the edge-right-up-to-your-finger style are useful and I think it boils down to preference and muscle memory.

Don't sweat the tip- a nessmuk shouldn't oughtta have a needle tip if it's a hunting knife, the more acute tips are nicer on the bushcraft purposed ones, but even then-

If you *try* it, a good stout tip with a moderate angle will work fine and be strong as all get out. I mentioned this elsewhere, but if you look at drill bits, the angles aren't super acute. If there's a reason for an awl-tip on the end of the blade, then by all means put it in there, but I think a balanced 45-90 degree angle in use is going to work out fine depending on the grind. (I'd lean more to 45 for a straight spine or something, 45 on a trialing point, in the 60-80 range on a spear or drop point.)
 
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Daniel and Christof, thanks for the feedback. While you were replying, I was cutting out a poplar blank of the Kephart V.3.

Cell Phone Pics:
0731091151.jpg

0731091152.jpg

downsized_0731091152a.jpg


I like this one, it feels good in my hand. I'm out of 3/32" 1095, so I'll have to use 1/8" 1095.

I should have posted this thread before I started cutting out the blanks...lesson learned. Christof, I agree with my Kephart evolving into something different, it's not really a Kephart any more.

Everyone, thanks again for the great feedback. I really appreciate it.
 
looks good to me...I'd still file it under the Kephart classification. :D
 
#4 looks great!


I wonder how it would look with the "pointed butt" feature repeated (and mirrored) for the front of the handle?
(mimics the 'blunt point' of the nessmuk blade)
 
Yeah, my comment about an acute pointed knife was to suggest an additional design.

With your Nessmuk, I think I would maybe think about making both your original design, and then a 'corrected' design. You rightly pointed out that you want to keep from copying others, but a good bit of the feedback you receive is pointed at existing designs that work, so the more you modify to suit, the more it will look like an extant knife.

With the Kephart, I still like the first the best. Maybe bring the handle back at bit, like has been said, but other than that.... I think I like that original Kephart design of yours better than any Kephart I have seen.

Marion
 
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