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- Dec 5, 2018
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That is exactly the point. If the abrasive is larger than the carbides it will remove the steel and the carbide. Which is what is happening at 400-500grit and coarser. Those are larger abrasives that are just ripping everything out of the edge. That is fine for setting your bevel which is exactly what I said earlier. You can absolutely use Alum oxide, SIC, or ceramics at 4-500 grit. However, once you get higher than that grit, the abrasives that you are using are now going to just be ripping out carbides.
If you are getting fine results with Maxamet, thats fine good on you and dont change the way you maintain your blades if you are getting good results. That being said, there has been a lot of writing substantiating carbide tear out in high vanadium steel at higher grits both here on the forums from people actually making these abrasives like FourtyTwoBlades over at Baryonyx and Larrin Thomas.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/carbide-tear-out-questions.1610190/#post-18392924
FortyTwoBlades on Carbide Tearout: "It's something that seemingly can occur in some rare circumstances, but is extremely unlikely in most of the situations it's commonly thought to occur in."
The only evidence of carbide tearout I've found, from Larrin or anyone else, is with large carbides in ingot steels. A good example is the comparison Larrin has posted a few times between 154CM and CPM-154, where there are large voids (around 4 micron) in the edge of the 154CM sample, which aren't present in the PM version with its smaller carbides.
I would expect that with finer soft abrasives you would see the steel "eroding" around the carbides, like in Todd's photo, and once the carbide is exposed enough then it would "tear out". I would expect the real limit here is just how fine of an edge you can get this way, as in no finer than the size of the carbides. It is also a very slow way of sharpening.
I am always looking for a better steel and look forward to what develops. As for predictions, I would look to ceramics. There are already, and have been for some time, some very interesting ceramics used in metal cutting lathe inserts, and even some end mills. They are for cutting hard metals where tungsten carbides don't hold up.
As for it being hard to sharpen I haven't found that steel yet. Maxamet sharpens as easily as anything with the right stones.
I think the point about the fineness of the edge and the relative size of the carbides is the main issue. If you've got an ingot steel with 4-micron carbides, you can't have a 1.5-micron edge without the carbides cracking off like a burr. Using a progression of diamond or CBN abrasive that can actually cut the carbides allows you to actually incorporate the carbides into the edge bevel. But, if you've already used something softer and have the carbides bulging out of the edge, you won't be able to switch to a harder fine-grit abrasive to incorporate the carbides into the edge, they'll just crack off. PM steels have much smaller carbides, which are much more readily incorporated into a fine edge.