Extreme Sharpness Comparison - S110V vs Super Blue - Measured Test - BESS

Let me get this straight: 15° per side, that is an aggregate of 30° inclusive, that's extreme sharpness?!

Having trouble comprehending differences between "sharp" and "thick"? Straight razors are commonly stropped as a final touch to improve edge refinement and geometry, wanna guess that final geometry in the last couple microns to the edge? ~30 degrees inclusive. For Gillette razors, the angle is often greater to increase durability against the harsh lateral forces of shaving. Sounds nuts, right? It isn't, because we're talking about edge-thicknesses <1 micron down to an edge radius ~50 nm. Even on specially prepared straight razors with an angle of 20 degrees inclusive down to the last 0.5 microns of edge-thickness, the last micron or so is ~30 inclusive. You want real extreme sharpness?? I've seen diatome blades going WELL below that 50 nm edge radius of steel razor blades, the absolute sharpest blades you could ever find! Usually they're sharpened >45 inclusive because at such low geometry it's hard to maintain strength with anything lower, steel doesn't even come close.

Axes and choppers at 10-dps, yeah, WELL behind the apex. Up front, 30-degrees inclusive is the standard for everything from straight razors to wood chisels to hunting knives to chipper and lawn-mower blades.
 
Having trouble comprehending differences between "sharp" and "thick"? Straight razors are commonly stropped as a final touch to improve edge refinement and geometry, wanna guess that final geometry in the last couple microns to the edge? ~30 degrees inclusive. For Gillette razors, the angle is often greater to increase durability against the harsh lateral forces of shaving. Sounds nuts, right? It isn't, because we're talking about edge-thicknesses <1 micron down to an edge radius ~50 nm. Even on specially prepared straight razors with an angle of 20 degrees inclusive down to the last 0.5 microns of edge-thickness, the last micron or so is ~30 inclusive. You want real extreme sharpness?? I've seen diatome blades going WELL below that 50 nm edge radius of steel razor blades, the absolute sharpest blades you could ever find! Usually they're sharpened >45 inclusive because at such low geometry it's hard to maintain strength with anything lower, steel doesn't even come close.

Axes and choppers at 10-dps, yeah, WELL behind the apex. Up front, 30-degrees inclusive is the standard for everything from straight razors to wood chisels to hunting knives to chipper and lawn-mower blades.

I wouldn't be so sure...30° included is too wide to be considered as keen as it can be.
Anyway if honing at 16° included will bring you an edge 20°+ due to inavoidable convexing what angle do you believe end with starting honing at 30°? Not very keen i suppose.
High carbide steels pretty much have to be sharpened at 30° included and beyond, and that is the reason i prefer carbon steels that can handle lower edge angles with the necessary strenght.
Here is the link to some material that i believe could be interesting as relevant to this thread

https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2015/02/09/the-pasted-strop-part-1/
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't be so sure...30° included is too wide to be considered as keen as it can be.
Anyway if honing at 16° included will bring you an edge 20°+ due to inavoidable convexing what angle do you believe end with starting honing at 30°? Not very keen i suppose.
High carbide steels pretty much have to be sharpened at 30° included and beyond, and that is the reason i prefer carbon steels that can handle lower edge angles with the necessary strenght.
Here is the link to some material that i believe could be interesting as relevant to this thread

https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2015/02/09/the-pasted-strop-part-1/

How "keen" you need them? I can sharpen s30v at 30 degrees then microbevel at 40 and break hanging hairs on contact.
 
An Olfa disposable snap-off blade has near-apex bevel angle of about 40 degrees.
For comparison, a Feather Artist Club Pro Super shavette blade is around 20 degrees.
 
I wouldn't be so sure...30° included is too wide to be considered as keen as it can be.
Anyway if honing at 16° included will bring you an edge 20°+ due to inavoidable convexing what angle do you believe end with starting honing at 30°? Not very keen i suppose.
High carbide steels pretty much have to be sharpened at 30° included and beyond, and that is the reason i prefer carbon steels that can handle lower edge angles with the necessary strenght.
Here is the link to some material that i believe could be interesting as relevant to this thread

https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2015/02/09/the-pasted-strop-part-1/

I love ToddS' blog :thumbup: He presents in the post before this one a couple of angles for razor-blades, he also made me aware of one of Gillette's patents: http://www.google.com/patents/WO2013010049A1?cl=en

"Keen" is related to apex-diameter not edge-angle. The absolute keenest blades are made from pure tungsten carbide and achieve apex diameters in the 1nm range... with bevel angles >30 inclusive:

2147492045_FULL_SIZE.jpg



"Necessary strength" for what? What exactly do you think these low geometries "can handle"? ToddS can also provide you images of what happens to those carbon steel blades at such low geometry doing things as harsh as push-cutting a sheet of paper:

diamond-plus-paper-cut01.jpg


That fold-over results in a LESS KEEN edge than a blade sharpened to 40-inclusive gets cutting through a bunch of cardboard.

Here is a utility knife i used for a while, cutting carpet and plastic and rope and cardboard, bevel angle is ~16 inclusive:

P1010370.JPG


And folk think an AXE (usually softer steel = weaker, more likely to squash or fold) can hold that geometry chopping wood???

Steve Elliot tested wood-planar blades for edge-retention at various angles (again, less heavy use than chopping) and found that going below 30-inclusive can result in excessive chipping even on CPM-3V while producing no real advantages in performance: http://bladetest.infillplane.com/html/bevel_angles.html

Thickness provides strength via stiffness, material support behind the apex. The lower your bevel angle, the lower the thickness at a given distance behind the apex and the lower the strength in cubic proportion (i.e. 2X increase in thickness results in 8X increase in strength):

Edge Profiles Angle.png

When you increase the bevel-angle from 20-inclsuive to 30, you increase the edge-thickness by ~50% and increase the strength by ~350%, and yet you do not affect "keen-ness" since whether the blade is 20-inclusive or 30, it can achieve the same level of apex-diameter refinement, indeed studies (Verhoeven) have shown that it may be easier to achieve a consistent lower apex diameter in the first place by sharpening at the higher bevel angle since that produces a stronger edge more resistant to fluctuations in the held-angle of the sharpener.

But the main point is, what "necessary strength" in what uses do you think your carbon blades achieve that the others cannot?
 
Last edited:
I sharpen a lot of kitchen knives and it is very helpful to have a mental image of what is happening at the edge.
I was unsure till now which was better technique,edge leading or edge trailing.
Edge trailing has the edge(pun intended).
I will reread the science of sharp a few more times before I jump to any other conclusions.
By the way who and what is scienceofsharp?
I would like to know more.
 
By the way who and what is scienceofsharp?
I would like to know more.

It's ToddS' blog, full of soothing and also exciting high-magnification images of blade edges, most respective to various sharpening techniques (hones, grits, etc.) He posted above:

An Olfa disposable snap-off blade has near-apex bevel angle of about 40 degrees.
For comparison, a Feather Artist Club Pro Super shavette blade is around 20 degrees.
 
"Necessary strength" for what? What exactly do you think these low geometries "can handle"? ToddS can also provide you images of what happens to those carbon steel blades at such low geometry doing things as harsh as push-cutting a sheet of paper:

diamond-plus-paper-cut01.jpg

Steel type and hardness have to be factored in, of course. If you are using something like 1095 at 54 HRC, then you will get the folding you describe. If you use something at 65-66 HRC (M2, CPM 10V, ZDP 189, etc), then you can get fantastic results with thinner edges. I know that some members of this forum are using knives at less than 15 inclusive with very good results, and no significant dulling or damage cutting carpet, cardboard, rope, etc.

My Dovo straight razors are all about 14 inclusive, and they shave just fine - without any stropping.
 
There is a significant difference between a blade that is sub-20 degrees all the way to the apex and one that is micro-convexed or micro-beveled in the last few microns of the edge.

When you say that do not strop your 14 degree Dovo, do you include fabric/canvas/linen? Stropping on those produces micro-convexity.
 
This might be the single most important thread I've read here in a while, thanks so much Jim for taking the time to do this. I appreciate your efforts to combat all of the mythologizing of different steels and their traits, acting like there's magical differences between steels (beyond the factually observable ones) only serves to reduce objectivity.
 
There is a significant difference between a blade that is sub-20 degrees all the way to the apex and one that is micro-convexed or micro-beveled in the last few microns of the edge.

When you say that do not strop your 14 degree Dovo, do you include fabric/canvas/linen? Stropping on those produces micro-convexity.
I usually strop for a more comfortable shave, but I tried the last few weeks of honing the edge and not stropping, just going right to shaving. The shave isn't as comfortable, but I've been trying to see if there was any difference in edge holding. I haven't seen that, but keep in mind these aren't high end steels, and so the edge holding usually requires touch up every shave or two, whether I strop or not.

So my experience is probably anecdotal, but I would like to see if I could get a razor at a much higher hardness to compare to.
 
Back
Top