Factory edge or sharpen?

Sharpening can be challenging especially when it's on a brandy new knife and one that wasn't a trivial sum of money to purchase. Many years ago I noticed that some of the Sebenza's I was receiving had less than stellar edges, some seemed too thick behind the edge, so I contacted CRK and Anne did respond quite fast and appreciated my input and would make it a point to pass that along to the shop foreman to keep a closer eye on the edges being applied.

But, any folder will eventually require some edge maintenance, as some have mentioned keeping it sharp by occasionally stropping the blade will delay time needed on sharpening stones. The ones I've owned I have hand sharpened on a variety of stones and all worked out great. But, for me there's always trepidation before starting, some knives it seems that the original edge was REALLY nice and you worry that you may not ever get that same cutting ability back again, so you baby your knife and try to stave off the problem as long as possible.

I've never sent a knife back to any maker to be sharpened, it is something that I think everyone that carries a knife and uses it needs to try and learn how to do.

A quote from the movie "The Equalizer" Denzel tells the one friend at work that was working to get a promotion in Security, and he was cheating on his eating by adding chips in his sandwich ;) he said "Progress...not Perfection..." that I think is key, just keep practicing and work on your skill level but don't start out trying be at a Perfection level, that will come with time and practice.

G2
 
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I'm a bit of an oddball that likes thin edges, so CRK factory edge geometry doesn't really suit me at all. They get sharpened. (Freehand on diamond stones)

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That looks like a properly acute edge. I generally run around 10 degrees per side with a 15 degree microbevel on my EDC folders. I prefer thin geometry so a lot of my knives are reground to be much thinner behind the edge, which makes the blade slice and look better since those acute bevels are relatively small on thinner blades. Do you know approximately what edge angle you have there?
 
This thread has me thinking…

I like to carry a small traditional because the blades are very thin and they slice so well.

When I need a more substantial blade I use my small sebenza. I have never been tempted to put a more acute edge on it. If I did, I might enjoy the knife even more though the wider bevels are off putting to me. It’s frankly silly to worried about bevel aesthetics. Function is what’s important.

I do wonder why CRK stays with a 20-ish degree bevel. There must be advantages.
 
That looks like a properly acute edge. I generally run around 10 degrees per side with a 15 degree microbevel on my EDC folders. I prefer thin geometry so a lot of my knives are reground to be much thinner behind the edge, which makes the blade slice and look better since those acute bevels are relatively small on thinner blades. Do you know approximately what edge angle you have there?

My best guess is 10-13 degrees per side for the "relief" bevel, then 17-18ish dps edge bevel. Bit of convex to my bevels from the freehand sharpening.
 
I've weeded down my CRKs to just a large and small Sebenza 21 Insingos. Both of them have had a reprofile to a <20dps edge that I can then do easy touch-ups on my Sharpmaker.
 
I fall into the I sharpen my own knives camp. I used to use a Sharpmaker pretty extensively but now I use Spyderco bench stones and freehand sharpen. Not because the Sharpmaker is somehow inferior but because I want to learn and use the skill to freehand sharpen on benchstones.
 
First thing I do with any of my CRK is go to the wicked edge and put a V edge on. I sold my large 21 CF not too long after buying it because all I had was a sharpmaker and I hated trying to get it sharp. I wish I kept it knowing what I know now and having the equipment I have now.
 
Just curious how many crk owners keep your factory edge as long as you can then send it out to factory for a sharpen ?
How many just say F it and sharpen themselves ?

I have a few CRK’s now I’m on the fence about sharpening. I use my wicked edge on all my other knives with great results but something about touching my reeve edges makes me cringe
Just use the sharpie trick and make sure you use the 1500 stone or whatever you have to remove it. It’ll be somewhere around 20-22°, that’s where mine have been. Put in your height tab (with the two pegs) and go spine flat maybe 1/4” past the studs and start there. Check both sides.
 
This thread really got me thinking. I started with a Lanky and bought an Edge Pro Pro (EP). I use the EP for everything from kitchen knives to other folders, but not the CRKs so far. After watching ApostleP video and seeing how the bevel at the tip widens on a 21 drop point blade I was apprehensive to try it out. There have been many posts that comment that the tip of the drop point is thicker and that is the reason for the wider bevel as you get to the tip of the drop point. From other comments the Insingo blade does not have this issue due to the shape of the blade.

A lot of people use a Sharpmaker and watching nyefmaker nyefmaker video he angles the blade away from the stone as he gets to the tip to avoid the wider bevel. CRK also mentions this in their sharpening tips for their knives. Doing this little adjustment in the middle of sharpening is a lot easier on the sharpmeker versus an EP. I ordered a Sharpmaker to try it out even though I said I would NEVER buy another sharpener after the EP. If the Sharpmaker takes too long or the bevels are not close to 20 degrees per side then I will remove the convex edge and get the bevel to 20 degrees per side on the EP. I think it would be quicker to set up and use the Sharpmaker rather then drag out all the EP gear. Any additional advice would be appreciated on the EP and sharpening CRK blades.

If I wanted to mimic what nyefmaker does on the EP I would have to sharpen the blade at 20 degrees to one point and then increase the angle by a degree or two to the tip. This seems like some work and hard to repeat.

Blues Blues seems to have similar equipment and that is why I am adding him here.

nyefmaker's video for reference:

 
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Though I have an EdgePro set up permanently alongside my shop sink, I only seem to use it once or twice every few years. I just like knowing it's there in a pinch if I need it.

I prefer to sharpen either freehand or use the Sharpmaker for quick touch ups, along with strops...both naked and with 1 micron diamond spray.

I also have a jig that a buddy made for me so that I can sharpen at the Sharpmaker angles with other stones (as needed). This allows me to use various media besides Spyderco ceramic. Usually diamond, (plates or bonded), for convenience.

Generally, the reason for turning the handle inward when you get toward the tip is so that you follow the bevel once you reach the curve.

I didn't look at the video above, but here is a video you might find both practical and useful as well:

 
I used a Worksharp Benchstone, the one that pivots with the blade, to reprofile mine, and that seemed to do a good job of keeping the bevels even.
 
I got the Sharpmaker and practiced on a Benchmade 710 that has a little recurve in the belly. This blade is ATS-34 which is a little tougher to sharpen. The knife came out good, but took some time to get the bevel to the 40 degree setting on the sharpmaker. This knife was dull and much improved by the time I was done. Next was the Large 21 Insingo and this sharpened up great with the S35VN and the 40 degree setting. I bought the ultra fine stones, but just stopped with the fine stones. The bevel was even and the knife is much sharper than when I started. Overall I really like the sharpmaker for a quick tune up of a blade. Thanks for both videos on the subject.

I used the Sharpie on the edge for both knifes to see how the edge was coming along.
 
My current favorite is the Work Sharp Precision Adjust. I did freehand for a long while but got tired of it only taking one slip up to ruin the edge. Personally taking more of the ME out of the equation is better for the edge. The only CRK steel I've sharpened so far is S45VN and it took an edge at 17 degree sides quick and easy. And so far it's been staying sharp. I've since only stropped it and while I confess to not heavily using this knife I also don't baby it either. I've said it here a couple of times but you couldn't get me to go back now that I'm sharpening with diamonds. I've even thought of trying some DMT plates.
 
Freehand on a Spyderco fine stone for me followed by a leather strop. Once you overcome your fear of messing up the blade, you find that doesn’t really happen and it’s all good.
 
Both my CRKs came with very dull edges, especially towards the belly/tip, it's like they didn't even look at the blade they were sharpening let alone test it. They're also slightly convexed from the polishing step, so I had zero reason not to touch it up on my Falkniven DC4. You have a very good sharpening system which can and will give you a better edge than what any mass produced knife comes with.
 
Both my CRKs came with very dull edges, especially towards the belly/tip, it's like they didn't even look at the blade they were sharpening let alone test it. They're also slightly convexed from the polishing step, so I had zero reason not to touch it up on my Falkniven DC4. You have a very good sharpening system which can and will give you a better edge than what any mass produced knife comes with.
I won't swear to it but I'm pretty sure this is on purpose to strengthen the edge and tip.
 
Both my CRKs came with very dull edges, especially towards the belly/tip, it's like they didn't even look at the blade they were sharpening let alone test it. They're also slightly convexed from the polishing step, so I had zero reason not to touch it up on my Falkniven DC4. You have a very good sharpening system which can and will give you a better edge than what any mass produced knife comes with.

I've heard that a lot about the belly tip area being thick. I reprofile every factory edge I receive, free hand, but if the day I invest in a sebenza I'll also be investing in a fix angle sharpening system because I want those bevels looking mechanically clean.
 
I won't swear to it but I'm pretty sure this is on purpose to strengthen the edge and tip.
Weird way to spell incompetence. It was sharpened alright, just not all the way to the apex. I do a lot of my cuts with that part of the blade, and in no world does leaving it "dull" strengthens the tip or makes sense. If anything a dull knife is more prone to breaking because it takes a lot more force to do the same task.

I remember from watching the BHQ documentary on them a while ago, they were sharpening and polishing the blades on belts. I'm guessing they still do, which would also explain the slight convex and the poor sharpening towards the tip. They gotta be really careful while doing so, if the belt catches on the tip it can launch the blade in any direction. I know a couple of knife makers who got severe injuries that way, one of them now wears chainmail while working on blades.
 
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