Falkniven F1 3G - Sadly disappointed

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Hi guys, this is my first post on Bladeforums but I am a keen 'outdoorsman'. Just a little background info - I bought a Gerber Big Rock about 4 years ago for around $40 - I was in Australia at the time. Without going into that knife too much (thats a whole other review) this knife has got me out of numerous situations, done all the Bushcraft stuff from shelters to feathersticks, its been in the water, up Volcano's (every other metallic item I had on that journey was damaged from the sulphur in the air, apart from the Gerber) its been around the world with me through woods, jungles, deserts - you name it its been there and for the money it is still my 'go to' I trust it and have relied on it for the past 4 years and it NEVER let me down.

Sorry to ramble on about a Gerber knife in a Falkniven post but I feel it is important to highlight that a good knife does not have to cost the earth.
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Imagine my surprise and delight on Christmas day opening a box to find a Falkniven F1 and not just any old F1 but the 3G 'super steel' version. (Thanks Dad)

After days of drooling over the knife and its paper cutting ability and reading the countless, excellent reviews it was time to field test the knife on a camping trip in Oman.

Before I go into that ill give you the first impressions of the knife out of the box -

The knife feels great in your hand, the handle is grippy (even when wet) and moulded around the blade to prevent dirt and food waste finding its way underneath. You can throw the whole knife in the camp pot after use and boil it to sanitise it after use.

The full tang, convex grind blade is good, VERY sharp and reasonably thick with a drop point and single lanyard hole in the handle end (perfect 550 paracord size).
One thing to point out is that the blade is quite short for some Bushcraft duties like battoning larger pieces of wood and I cant imagine shelter building with it. However the knife was used successfully to split wood on my camping trip.

The knife feels solid without being heavy and its perfectly balanced too.

My knife came with the leather sheath option although a more tactical zytel sheath is also available at no extra charge.

The leather sheath looks very nice, its functional with a large belt loop and press stud fastener on the front to hold the knife in place. The first thing I did though was to wrap it in 550 and attach a fire steel ;-)
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My first 'Issue' with the sheath was the press stud, the back of the stud (inside the sheath) is covered by a small circle of leather that after repeated use seemed to peel away and then the stud marks/scratches the knife. The same thing happened on my Fathers knife so we both took it off completely and super glued it back on.
There was no issues after this but lets keep reminding ourselves that this knife is one of Falknivens flagship knives and at around $250 US, Not a cheap blade.

Another issue with the sheath is that I took the knife canyoning (swimming, jumping into rock pools etc) and the leather is now slightly warped from water damage - not something you want if you spend alot of time outdoors. If you are going to use it for bushcraft or situations exposing it to rain (it is a survival knife after all) I would suggest getting the less attractive zytel sheath.

The camping trip in Oman was great fun and as it was the knifes first outing I thought I would take it easy - I cut some food up, used it with a fire steel to start the fire, battoned some small branches and made some feather sticks. everything seemed ok until the next morning when it was light.

Upon inspection of the blade I found that firstly the fire steel had deeply marked the steel on the knife (not a massive problem) but my four year old, $50 Gerber has lit hundreds of fires with barely a mark on the spine.
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Secondly to my shock and horror the blade had some small knotches/damage to the edge and the tip had broken off ???????????????????
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Let me just clarify

1 - this is a genuine F1 3G NOT a Chinese copy

2 - I look after my knives, the blade was not dropped or used for anything other than what I have already stated, it was put back in its sheath and left there until the morning. But YES I use my knives for the purpose they are designed for.

CONCLUSIONS

I have contacted Falkniven who have asked for me to send the blade to their factory for inspection and regrinding - I sent them an email back saying that the tip should not have broken off, there is clearly a flaw in the so called 'super' steel and that I did not want the knife to be even shorter. Ill post here again on the outcome of that.

As far as the knife is concerned im actually really gutted. I think I just got a bad one but lets be honest here, your knife should be completely and utterly dependable. Mine failed at the most trivial tasks and did not perform how i would expect an expensive, worldwide recognised knife to. Yes it was razor sharp, I like the grippy handle but I thought the blade was slightly too short (personal preference), the leather case was disappointing, the knife was marked all over the blade and spine from what i assume was the fire steel or water damage and the fact that the tip broke off !!!!!! Ive never even seen that happen on a cheap kitchen knife:confused:

I will probably look at getting an RC5 or probably budget wise a Becker BK2 now, the Falkniven would have been my faithful travel companion where a Rambo size knife is unsuitable (I find travelling with a slightly smaller knife raises less eyebrows at customs in certain countries) but now I have a doubt and my knife of choice and doubt do not mix in my opinion.

I feel like I bought a case of beer only to get home and realise it was non-alcoholic, I feel like I got a chicken burger only to bite into it and find a cold, wet sliver of tofu in there, I feel ................gutted :-(
 
Just out of curiosity what kind of pot did you boil the knife in? What was the heat source?
 
Hi, I use an F1 in VG10 and I also noticed several "spots" on the blade after using a firesteel. It looks like some "sparks" of the firesteel got weld onto the blade.
Regarding the sheath, I also advice getting the 'plastic' one.
However, there's no rust and not any broken parts ... (of course steel is different ...)
 
I wanted to like this knife, and I most times had it as my go to knife, but I finally woke up from that and sold it (passed the harm to someone else I guess). Great full convex, but chips EVERY time no matter what I did and how gently and putting more steep angle to the edge kind of defeats the purpose for me.

I've addressed many of the problems with FK but they have pretty arrogant and "we know best" attitude. Especially with the prices today, way too overpriced for what you get.
 
Welshman, search around on this site. I have seen a few posts simillar to yours concerning the same knife.
 
Well,let's see what Fällkniven do in Your case.
I have several 3G models from them and haven't experienced what You have.
I have used them intensively at work as a carpenter and they have seen damage to the edge.
My carbonsteel knives has more damage on the same type of impact.

I have experienced differrences in edge holding between the 3G knives and I think this can have multiple causes, that interact on performance.
It can be overheating in the final grinding.
It can be differrences in my sharpening.
It can be edgegeometry, as the factoryedges are often less durable than my own edge.

As time goes by and the knife gets used and sharpened, things seems to stabilize on a higher level of performance.
Basically it's the same with most knives I have.
There are several exceptions to this rule and also in 3G steel.
As the heat-treatments are made with protocols for every batch, any inconsistencies are probably found in the final grinding process.

Now, I'm no knifemaker,metallurgist or work in the knife buisness.
I'm a user and consumer only, so this is my own speculations about how things might be.
I guess it's a mayor issue over the entire knifeindustry and it's the consumers who pays the bill.
What to do about it I don't know, I don't even know if I'm right.

What I do know is that of all my knives I have most confidence in my Fällkniven models!
Just my 2c.


Regards
Mikael
 
First of all get the zytel sheath if you are out in whet weather a lot
it is lighter more durable and has no issues vs leather

I have F1 in VG 10 and TK2 in 3G and did not experience any issues you point out.
One of the best utility knives out there IMO (if properly used)

For batoning get A1
 
Sorry to hear about your bad fortune. Disappointment is never fun. I have a F1 in VG10 and have never experienced any chipping even when right out abusing it - like hacking a hole in a frozen lake to fish from. My japanese kitchen knife came with a warning label - "due to the high hardness of the knife edge, be very gentle with the edge until you have sharpened it a couple of times. The edge will then be durable and strong".

This is along the lines of what Mikael is saying. With these hard new edges it is very important to be careful until you have taken of that virgin edge. Then these knives will be extremely strong and durable. You could compare it to "breaking in" a new engine or breaking in leather boots.

High end knives with high end steels often needs to be broken in not to break.
 
How do you guys sharpen the convex edge knifes, do you have any tip for a beginner? I try to learn the mousepad method is that a good idea for the F1 and A1? When I talked to Erik at fällkniven he suggested to use the DC 521 sharpener and try to slice a thin slice from the sharpener. It works fine but will it be a convex edge then? And what method will make the strongest edge? At my last batoning experience I had some minor chipping in the F1 but then again that could be from my bad sharpening skills maybee the angle. But a few strokes at the DC 521 fixed it.
 
Sorry to hear about your problems. I have read of others having chipping issues. Accepting a "re-grind' would be a no-go for me.

The ESEE 5 is a brute. Nothing like the FK F1, I believe. On that note, the ESEE 4 would probably be closer in size, but if you want a thick blade, the ESEE 5 is truly awesome. With ESEE, replacement would be automatic without "inspection/evaluation". You just send it in and they send out another, and I can't imagine them trying to re-work a badly damaged blade. Good luck and let us know what happens.
 
Bodis.
I also use the recommended Fällkniven stones.
It has worked for years and if done by hand, the edge will still be convex.
I end sharpening by honing on a leather strop, loaded with honing compound.
There's a lot of compounds to choose from, but I went to the nearest gas station and bought a tube of Autosol chromepolish.
Works perfect!

Regards
Mikael
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I use stones and my convex edges are just fine. Handheld sharpening will make your edge more or less convex since its impossible to maintain exact angle. Don't worry about it. Just keep practicing. You can't really damage the knife sharpening by hand using fine stones. To damage the profile of your knife you'd need a belt grinder or a coarse file.

Of course you would get even more perfect results with leather strops and correct paste but I don't bother. Eriks advice is good.
 
I've owned the RC5 and still have a BK2. Get the BK2, if using it for the outdoors. The RC5 has a thicker grind and a fatter edge, as to avoid damage when cutting through a downed aircraft. The BK2's grind starts higher, so there is less steel as the grind approaches the edge, much better for what you're trying to do with a knife.
IMO, get a small axe or hatchet, or even a machete, they can save your knife for the knife jobs. A 12" Ontario Cutlass machete is a seriously tough 1/8" thick blade. It can baton through much larger cords of wood, and won't break the bank, $25 at most. I convexed mine, and it outchops the Junglas and the KaBar Cutlass machete.
Ever consider taking a small folding saw? With my Silky, I can process way more wood with less effort and time. It's great to have the skill to do all the chores with one knife, but no one knife does everything well.
 
How do you guys sharpen the convex edge knifes, do you have any tip for a beginner? I try to learn the mousepad method is that a good idea for the F1 and A1? When I talked to Erik at fällkniven he suggested to use the DC 521 sharpener and try to slice a thin slice from the sharpener. It works fine but will it be a convex edge then? And what method will make the strongest edge? At my last batoning experience I had some minor chipping in the F1 but then again that could be from my bad sharpening skills maybee the angle. But a few strokes at the DC 521 fixed it.

I use DLT Trading paddle strop loaded with Bark River Black compound on one Side and Bark River White compound on the other
 
I will never understand the philosophy of having a knife that will cut really badly due to exaggerated heft and profile instead of learning how to correctly use a cutting tool.
 
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