Fallkniven F1 PRO

Not saying this to be rude, but if you bent the tip of either of those knives, you did it wrong.

Don't push the limits of your tools, guy! It's pretty easy to feel.

But yeah, that does suck, bro! Hope you can get it worked out somehow.
 
Come on man, this is a 250 dollar "survival knife. I wasn't doing anything that should have hurt it.
 
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I have the A1 and love everything about it except the sheet which imo is crap. Blade retention is nonexistent plus wobbles too much even. A Kydex or leather sheet would make it perfect though
 
rodriguez7 said:
Come on man, this is a 250 dollar "survival knife. I wasn't doing anything that should have hurt it.
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250 dollars or 12, it's still subject to the laws of physics. Either you are correct, and the knife is defective, or the knife is fine, and you pushed it beyond the limit of its materials.

Those are the only possibilities that exist.

Maybe next time, get a feel for prying with the 12 dollar survival knife before moving to the 250 dollar one! 😂

Im razzing you a bit here, but there is a lesson to be had. An experience is only a waste of you refuse to learn from it.

What you learn is up to you.
 
Jamesh Bond said:
250 dollars or 12, it's still subject to the laws of physics. Either you are correct, and the knife is defective, or the knife is fine, and you pushed it beyond the limit of its materials.

Those are the only possibilities that exist.

Maybe next time, get a feel for prying with the 12 dollar survival knife before moving to the 250 dollar one! 😂

Im razzing you a bit here, but there is a lesson to be had. An experience is only a waste of you refuse to learn from it.

What you learn is up to you.
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Very well put, one of the reasons i used a cheap free fixed blade to practice my first wicked edge technique
 
I understand that, but still it should hold up to what my folders handle! I wasn't hard on it
 
rodriguez7 said:
I kind of all ready bent it, just prying apart a piece of wood for my fire in the house.
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It's interesting that the tip bent and didn't snap.
Looks like the steel has a lot of toughness in it. :thumbup:


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Originally Posted by rodriguez7

I'm thinking of sending this knife somewhere and having someone fatten up the tip a little. Thinking of dropping the point a couple millimeters. It's way to fragile for my liking, and peter said it's not covered under warranty due to me buying it off amazon!!!!
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Obviously Your way of doing things, will require a thicker tipgeometry.
Nothing wrong with that.
Why not just reprofile the tip Yourself with the DC4?


Regards
Mikael
 
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rodriguez7 said:
I kind of all ready bent it, just prying apart a piece of wood for my fire in the house.
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Well that just sucs! Maybe save up for a Busse or Swamprat they have a very good warranty or maybe a knife in 3v that seems to be so tough these days. The Ratmandu seems to be a very popular knife with the outdoors type folks and you may want to check out and is less costly than the one you bent the tip on.
 
Mikael & others , We could get into a long discussion on grinding. But to make it short - let's start out with a properly HT'd blade then grind it. Grinding creates heat , best removed with flowing coolant . Improperly done the blade will heat first enough to temper back the blade making it softer and the tip will bend . More heat and the tip will get above the critical temp and harden but will be untempered martensite thus brittle and the tip may easily break ! It would be hard to tell without complete metallurgical exam. Do it right the first time so you don't have to do it again !!!
 
d762nato said:
Well that just sucs! Maybe save up for a Busse or Swamprat they have a very good warranty or maybe a knife in 3v that seems to be so tough these days. The Ratmandu seems to be a very popular knife with the outdoors type folks and you may want to check out and is less costly than the one you bent the tip on.
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I have busses, swamprats, and a few in 3v. I bought this for the nice compact size. Besides with the edge geometry it cuts circles around my busses. All I'm saying is it should have a more robust tip. The original f1 handled what i did just fine.
 
mete said:
Mikael & others , We could get into a long discussion on grinding. But to make it short - let's start out with a properly HT'd blade then grind it. Grinding creates heat , best removed with flowing coolant . Improperly done the blade will heat first enough to temper back the blade making it softer and the tip will bend . More heat and the tip will get above the critical temp and harden but will be untempered martensite thus brittle and the tip may easily break ! It would be hard to tell without complete metallurgical exam. Do it right the first time so you don't have to do it again !!!
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Agreed! :thumbup:

When using a beltsander, I always fill a bucket of water and dip the blade before it gets hot.
For normal resharpening, I use a handheld DC stone and water.


Regards
Mikael
 
I'll figure out something. Most of my uses require a stouter tip. I can re profile it myself with my work sharp
 
There ya go man, make it your own. What do you pry so much with tip, I'm just curious not condemning :D
 
Fattened it up a bit. Looks much better now, I think now it's closer to the original f1. And yes I was surprised it bent, I wasn't prying hard at all, but it bent on the cos steel, not on the lamination. I was able to bend it back with very little effort.
 
DeadboxHero said:
There ya go man, make it your own. What do you pry so much with tip, I'm just curious not condemning :D
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Usually just fatwood or when I'm splitting kindling for a fire. But I also carry it at work, and have used my knives prying open some holes in sheet rock to wire houses, I'm a phone tech. Just various things when my other tools are out of reach. I'm actually quite careful with my knives, unless it's one of my busses. I was surprised at how thin the tip was on this when I got it.
 
So far I'm really liking this steel. It holds and edge much better than infi, and a little better than sr101. Don't think it'll quite match 3v in edge retention though.
 
I like the thinner tip for detail work. Especially on a small knife.

The steel is my favorite part about the pro series
 
Had to check the tip on the Pro and did some light prying into dry American Oak.

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No bent or broken tip.
This tip is actually thinner than new, as I prefer good cutting performance along the whole lenght of the edge.



Regards
Mikael
 

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