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Fallkniven S1 or H1 for Bushcraft?
- Thread starter S. Brown
- Start date
The S1.
How about the combo: S1, LM Wave, Fiskars axe/ Laplander saw. Its a popular trio.
The S1 is developed to be used as a forest knife, hence the S for "skogskniv" forest knife in swedish.
The H1 is developed to be used as a hunting knife, hence the H for Hunting, but hunting is called Jakt in swedish so it should probably have been J1
The S1 was my first Fallkniven knife. I now have changed to a F1, but I will get my another S1 soon. Any sheath will do, depending on use that is. The leather looks nice and zytel are great for "messy jobs".
What you really like is a matter of taste.
The H1 is more in the line of Ray Mears bushcraft mumbo jumbo than the S1 but in the bushcrafty area the F1 is really popular.
I have my F1 in a neck sheath. I cut off the leather belt strap and tied some paracord in the loop for the metal ring on the sheath.
The F1 is more than ONE knife http://hem.passagen.se/nodh
How about the combo: S1, LM Wave, Fiskars axe/ Laplander saw. Its a popular trio.
The S1 is developed to be used as a forest knife, hence the S for "skogskniv" forest knife in swedish.
The H1 is developed to be used as a hunting knife, hence the H for Hunting, but hunting is called Jakt in swedish so it should probably have been J1
The S1 was my first Fallkniven knife. I now have changed to a F1, but I will get my another S1 soon. Any sheath will do, depending on use that is. The leather looks nice and zytel are great for "messy jobs".
What you really like is a matter of taste.
The H1 is more in the line of Ray Mears bushcraft mumbo jumbo than the S1 but in the bushcrafty area the F1 is really popular.
I have my F1 in a neck sheath. I cut off the leather belt strap and tied some paracord in the loop for the metal ring on the sheath.
The F1 is more than ONE knife http://hem.passagen.se/nodh
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I've got an F1, and lust after the H1, but have yet to acquire it!! The F1 is a winner of a knife.
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- Jun 10, 2003
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If you have a F-1 why would you want a H-1 ? I think the F-1 is shaped better. I do have a "skogskniv" and I'm very happy with it ,kind of a heavier duty F-1. I think a 4" blade is still the best all around blade length. For a hunting knife the H-1 or F-1 is deer sized and the S-1 is moose sized !
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Um, because I'm an addict...
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Like others, the F1 would be my choice and between the two you are looking at, the S1 would be a better choice as an all arounder, but if you are a hunter, then the H1 would be better suited. Another of their knives that I'm interested in, is the WM1 sports knife. The shorter blade would be well suited for EDC and would certainly fill the bill as a bushcrafters blade.
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I love the F1. I think it's my favorite SS knife and a near perfect size.
savagesicslayer
Gold Member
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- May 24, 2005
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I have both the S1 an F1 and can't find fault with either knife.I carry my F1 as a companion knife to my WSK's and my S1 as a stand alone knife for light woods/camp tasks.
What are your "dimensions?"
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- Oct 29, 2012
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Sorry to reinvent an old forum, but I have been considering the H1 and would like to know if how it performs at tasks other than strictly hunting- specifically bushcraft and utility tasks? I find this a very beautiful knife and intreaguing knife both from geometrical and cultural perspectives. I think Fallkniven's adaptation of this timeless classic presents a great opportunity for knife enthusiasts and adventure seekers. I realise it is a purposeful hunting knife, however I was very interested when I heard that some favour it for a bushcraft, utility and even as an EDC knife as well. I read somewhere it has a high convex grind, similar to F1 and while not a slicer per say, it performs elegantly as a hunting knife, however it is an extremely strong knife being highly resistant to breakage. It has the same overall length proportions as an F1 (210mm), although its blade is slightly longer by (3mm). What surprised me is its blade length is 5mm thick = to S1, yet an F1 is 4.5mm thick and I wondered why this was so? Note Idun's is 5mm thick too and it too is a hunting knife. Consider also the H1 has a hefty weight to it. It is only 10grams lighter than S1, which would just put it into chopping territory. It also has a pommel. The H1 has no guard, however I was wondering how this affects the user during utility use or other with the knife? Another quality I noticed in the H1 is its purely purposeful appearance- while it attracts attention it does not appear threatening. Do these welcomed features in the H1 suggest it may me more capable than we think, fullfilling roles outside those of hunting?
After months of research my favourite belt knife for bushcraft, survival and hunting purposes came down to TK2, Idun or F1 VG10. Like many I adore the F1. I have ordered one in VG10 as I fear 3G steel is a little brittle for bushcraft duties and am awaiting its arrival. TK2 was my favourite Fallkniven, however as it is sadly offered only in 3G, I have made plans to customise an F1 blade with a rare Australian Acacia Wattle hardwood. I also considered the Idun, however I saw a review by 'virtuoice' (the Japanese guy) on you tube stating it was not suitable for bushcraft work, as it is unstable and twisted in the hand. The most beautiful knife I ever saw was a custom H1 with white and black staghorn scales. Anyway from what I have read I can't say enough for practicality of the F1, how it performs at bushcraft, survival and hunting, while compromising on intricate tasks like slicing foods. I love the F1!:thumbup:
After months of research my favourite belt knife for bushcraft, survival and hunting purposes came down to TK2, Idun or F1 VG10. Like many I adore the F1. I have ordered one in VG10 as I fear 3G steel is a little brittle for bushcraft duties and am awaiting its arrival. TK2 was my favourite Fallkniven, however as it is sadly offered only in 3G, I have made plans to customise an F1 blade with a rare Australian Acacia Wattle hardwood. I also considered the Idun, however I saw a review by 'virtuoice' (the Japanese guy) on you tube stating it was not suitable for bushcraft work, as it is unstable and twisted in the hand. The most beautiful knife I ever saw was a custom H1 with white and black staghorn scales. Anyway from what I have read I can't say enough for practicality of the F1, how it performs at bushcraft, survival and hunting, while compromising on intricate tasks like slicing foods. I love the F1!:thumbup:
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- Dec 15, 2008
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I have a s-1 with a custom leather sheath and for me 5 to 6.5 in is the perfect allrounder thats light enough to carry and does not get hung up in and out of boats, vehicles etc.
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Very interesting. I considered the S1 when I first looked at Fallkys. I thought like many others did that it is a good allrounder and chops too if necessary. But from my extensive research, experience and personal preference I find you can't beat a 4" blade as a utility/ overall knife. Its like an extension of the hand. I find it also performs better than longer blades when I am dressing and inside the carcass of a kangaroo. The ONLY improvement I would suggest with the standard F1 is to get rid of that dip from the handle to the top of the blade for thumb work, to bring blade up in line with the handle. For this reason I reckon I am going to send back my standard F1 when it arrives and go another F1 in custom with hardwood handles.
Another knife that has raised my attention thanks to members is the Fallkniven H1 classifeid hunting knife. Apparently its a damn strong knife 5mm thick blade (F1's is 4.5mm); 100mm blade (Longer than F1 by 3mm); and 210mm overall length (Equal to the F1). Some guys are using it for bushcraft work and swear by it. The onlty thing I dont like about this knife is the lack of some sort of handle guard.
Another knife that has raised my attention thanks to members is the Fallkniven H1 classifeid hunting knife. Apparently its a damn strong knife 5mm thick blade (F1's is 4.5mm); 100mm blade (Longer than F1 by 3mm); and 210mm overall length (Equal to the F1). Some guys are using it for bushcraft work and swear by it. The onlty thing I dont like about this knife is the lack of some sort of handle guard.
I would be the contrarian and go with the H1. It performs well for hunting, and on other forums, lots of folks swear by it for other camp/woodcraft chores as well. It is a hefty knife, and the lack of guard would require awareness, but the one that I have grips well, and the swell of the handle gives a very positive grip.
So that would be my choice, but I wouldn't be unhappy with either knife.
So that would be my choice, but I wouldn't be unhappy with either knife.
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Thanks for that Sodak. Yes since my last message I have done some more research on the H1 and now believe the it is a highly underrated and a very capable knife indeed. I like that fact that it’s a great skinning knife, capable bushcraft knife, is hefty and solid and of traditional Scandinavian design. I am now ordering one in VG10!
However, I discovered something remarkable, almost mysterious and very exciting about the H1, hidden in the Swedish minimalist idiom of form follows function. H1's strange blade design may hold more than just Nordic historical and cultural connections or technical forethought as an able and careful skinning knife. It seems the curved blade design also apparently reduces stress on the blade during bushcraft tasks including trimming twigs, whittling and battening. The curved blade design also technically speaking helps with edge retention! Think about this... H1's curved blade design reminded me of a propeller on a modern military submarine. The blades are radically curved, and more so at the ends (like the H1's blade), so as to cut through the water not only more efficiently, but with less stress on the water while it makes contact with the propeller blades thereby reducing what maritimers call cavitation- When water is churned by a propeller it is warmed up. In the boats wake this warmer water mixes with cooler water, causing cavitation or electro thermo dynamic pulses in the water, which can be detected by advanced sonar. The subs radically twisted propeller blades therefore help minimize the cavatonic pulses, by placing less stress on the water as it cuts through it and of course the propeller, therefore moving the sub through the water more efficiently. Fascinating!
Further H1's grind, unlike the F1, begins halfway down the blade and travels to its convex edge, whereas F1's begins from the spine down. Additionally not only due to the meaty grind, but because H1's blade is 5mm thick (vs the F1's 4.5mm) and the fact that H1's blade is only 110mm long, makes H1 Fallkniven's strongest knife in its class, even eclipsing the NL5 Idun, which while being 5mm thick has a grind beginning from the spine like F1. It could further be said that pound for pound the H1 is Fallknivens' strongest knife!!! For this reason metaphorically speaking named it the 'Bull-shark' of medium to small knifes! A Bullshark can go almost anywhere and can even live in fresh water. While it only reaches 9 feet in length and 600pounds + pound for pound it is the most dangerous man eating shark!
I just ordered a H1z from my trusty supplier and a F1 blade blank and I have arranged to have the F1 scaled in unique Western Australian Desert Snakewood, a hard to acquire acacia hardwood, similar but stronger and arguably more beautiful than Arizona Desert Ironwood. Naturally I am very excited about this
I found an excellent review on the H1 from a guy who seems to know what he's talking about if anyone’s interested in this small 2 page thread. His username is 'Thecarotidpulse' and it can be read here
http://www.siteground136.com/~knifet...read.php?t=266
However, I discovered something remarkable, almost mysterious and very exciting about the H1, hidden in the Swedish minimalist idiom of form follows function. H1's strange blade design may hold more than just Nordic historical and cultural connections or technical forethought as an able and careful skinning knife. It seems the curved blade design also apparently reduces stress on the blade during bushcraft tasks including trimming twigs, whittling and battening. The curved blade design also technically speaking helps with edge retention! Think about this... H1's curved blade design reminded me of a propeller on a modern military submarine. The blades are radically curved, and more so at the ends (like the H1's blade), so as to cut through the water not only more efficiently, but with less stress on the water while it makes contact with the propeller blades thereby reducing what maritimers call cavitation- When water is churned by a propeller it is warmed up. In the boats wake this warmer water mixes with cooler water, causing cavitation or electro thermo dynamic pulses in the water, which can be detected by advanced sonar. The subs radically twisted propeller blades therefore help minimize the cavatonic pulses, by placing less stress on the water as it cuts through it and of course the propeller, therefore moving the sub through the water more efficiently. Fascinating!
Further H1's grind, unlike the F1, begins halfway down the blade and travels to its convex edge, whereas F1's begins from the spine down. Additionally not only due to the meaty grind, but because H1's blade is 5mm thick (vs the F1's 4.5mm) and the fact that H1's blade is only 110mm long, makes H1 Fallkniven's strongest knife in its class, even eclipsing the NL5 Idun, which while being 5mm thick has a grind beginning from the spine like F1. It could further be said that pound for pound the H1 is Fallknivens' strongest knife!!! For this reason metaphorically speaking named it the 'Bull-shark' of medium to small knifes! A Bullshark can go almost anywhere and can even live in fresh water. While it only reaches 9 feet in length and 600pounds + pound for pound it is the most dangerous man eating shark!
I just ordered a H1z from my trusty supplier and a F1 blade blank and I have arranged to have the F1 scaled in unique Western Australian Desert Snakewood, a hard to acquire acacia hardwood, similar but stronger and arguably more beautiful than Arizona Desert Ironwood. Naturally I am very excited about this
I found an excellent review on the H1 from a guy who seems to know what he's talking about if anyone’s interested in this small 2 page thread. His username is 'Thecarotidpulse' and it can be read here
http://www.siteground136.com/~knifet...read.php?t=266
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I don't have a S1 (yet) but do have F1 & H1's. I've always considered the F1 to be one of the best designs for all around use, but lately I have grown to be a big fan of the H1 for uses other than hunting. This is largely due to the fact that I acquired H1's with custom handles which overcomes the negatives of the stock H1 handles.
The first one is a Bark River customized canvas Micarta H1 that features the palm swells similar to the BRKT Bravo 1. In addition to the palm swells the handle profile is slightly contoured to provide a more secure grip.
The next one is an H1 that I commissioned Alan Davis to perform his magic on. Alan's version features more aggressive handle contouring that provides an index finger groove and weight saving reduction in the butt end that results in a lighter and better balanced H1. My choice of amber dyed carved stag bone in handle material did not allow for palm swells like the BRKT version, but it sure made for a striking appearance.
The first one is a Bark River customized canvas Micarta H1 that features the palm swells similar to the BRKT Bravo 1. In addition to the palm swells the handle profile is slightly contoured to provide a more secure grip.
The next one is an H1 that I commissioned Alan Davis to perform his magic on. Alan's version features more aggressive handle contouring that provides an index finger groove and weight saving reduction in the butt end that results in a lighter and better balanced H1. My choice of amber dyed carved stag bone in handle material did not allow for palm swells like the BRKT version, but it sure made for a striking appearance.