Fallkniven volcano tang!!! Weak?

rodriguez7 said:
Messed up!!!!
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Well , slow and patiently is answer ....................

I do not know if to me is allowed this, but ...................This summer comes my friend from USA in Macedonia and I can give to him enough big piece of solid Micarta for two handle .He will send to you when he come back in USA .......... free of course ?
 
Natlek said:
Well , slow and patiently is answer ....................

I do not know if to me is allowed this, but ...................This summer comes my friend from USA in Macedonia and I can give to him enough big piece of solid Micarta for two handle .He will send to you when he come back in USA .......... free of course ?
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I would definitely take you up on that offer. I appreciate it!
 
And it's coming along ok, I made a few mistakes. But oh well! I think I'll be good for now. Just gotta make sure everything lines up, and the epoxy holds up for the time being. I did add 2 pieces of 12 gauge mild steel, tapered them and jb welded them to the tang! Just to get a little more mass and hopefully rigidity. I'll grind them and clean them up after it sets well.
 
rodriguez7 said:
Messed up!!!!
Click to expand...


There are ways to fix that.
If the G10 got too narrow at the ends, the block can be shortened and the material can be replaced by spacers.
Spacers like the original ones, are made from sheaths of Vulcanfiber, but You can use other materials as well.

Natlek's advice about working slow and patient, is the way to a great result.
Sometimes I have to remake a handle several times, before I get it the way I want it.
I work in stages and let the pieces rest while I process an idea.

Looking at the cracked Cocobolo handle makes me think it can be repaired with epoxy and put back in place again.
I have done that to the old knife, I abused as a teenager and it is fully usable again:

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Regards
Mikael
 

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Mikael , as I know due to the high oil content cocobolo is very difficult to glue . Maybe that was part of failure on this handle ..... ? Idea to put more spacer is fine , maybe some nice piece of wood in front ?

From wood.database.com

One of today’s most prized lumbers for its outstanding color and figure; yet also one of the most infamous for its difficulty in gluing
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Natlek said:
Mikael , as I know due to the high oil content cocobolo is very difficult to glue . Maybe that was part of failure on this handle ..... ? Idea to put more spacer is fine , maybe some nice piece of wood in front ?

From wood.database.com
Click to expand...

Yes oily wood is always more difficult to glue!
It's Trial&Error + R&D! :D
I don't think it was the oilcontent, that made the wood crack.
Some pieces of Cocobolo split very easy, when another piece have a lot of interlocking grains.
It's impossible to know, before You work with a specific block.


Regards
Mikael
 
Not from oilcontent, that made the wood crack, I mind because of oil maybe wood did not glued to tang...
 
Natlek said:
Not from oilcontent, that made the wood crack, I mind because of oil maybe wood did not glued to tang...
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I see what You mean and then maybe the handle twisted around the tang and cracked.
I have a couple of scrapped Cocobolo scales in a drawer.
Upon removing them, the epoxy stayed with the scales and primarily lost the grip from the tang.


Regards
Mikael
 
Fast chop and baton can put very large sheering/torquing-force on the neck of handle of a stick tang blade. Cumaru wood is crazy strong+tough interlocked-grain, even with that - I managed to crack the cumaru test handle 5+ times in the past (while testing blade). Cocobolo is mostly straight except some with minor interlocked grain, so it's not a good choice of handle wood in OP's situation. If camphor burl isn't too pungent/smelly (for my nose), it would be great for high impact handle (sure it would dent). Lately I'm not using camphor much because it is very difficult to remove the temp handle - yeah heat(and freeze doesn't worked well) & chisel but still hard.
 
bluntcut said:
Fast chop and baton can put very large sheering/torquing-force on the neck of handle of a stick tang blade. Cumaru wood is crazy strong+tough interlocked-grain, even with that - I managed to crack the cumaru test handle 5+ times in the past (while testing blade). Cocobolo is mostly straight except some with minor interlocked grain, so it's not a good choice of handle wood in OP's situation. If camphor burl isn't too pungent/smelly (for my nose), it would be great for high impact handle (sure it would dent). Lately I'm not using camphor much because it is very difficult to remove the temp handle - yeah heat(and freeze doesn't worked well) & chisel but still hard.
Click to expand...

Yes absolutely, there are a lot of extreme dynamics going on in the handles of big knives!

I have no experience with Cumaru or Camphor Burl, but they sure sound like interesting materials.
( So does Your experiments with heat-treating steel and I follow Your results!)


Regards
Mikael
 
Maybe this knife, used this way, would be a good candidate for a horse-mat handle. See if you can crack that.
 
Twindog said:
Maybe this knife, used this way, would be a good candidate for a horse-mat handle. See if you can crack that.
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The Volcano tang is made for a handlematerial, that has to be both hard on the outside and with a high level of toughness.


Regards
Mikael
 
I would definitely trim the end of the block and finish that space towards the pommel with spacers to match the front. Truly disappointing, but bravo on rolling with the punch and bettering it yourself. You may have saved me from spending 500$ :D
 
Pretty busy day today, but I got it lined up somewhat decent!!! It's coming out ok so far. I made a couple mistakes, but it's my first shot!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
is everything glued up? seems like you are missing a red spacer.
 
It's glued. That's all that was on the volcano. That I saw anyway.
 
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