Fastest cutting sharpening stone's.

I don' use a lot of pressure when sharpening with anything for the most part be even more so I try to b really gentle with diamonds,I have just found the DMT's to be hit or miss as to where they last and I find they don't cut as fast as Atoma's or the Gold Series hones either,I have found the DMT's in similar or the same grit as the Gold Series to always feel smoother as well I don't have anything bad to say about DMT either as they have been around for along time I just don't like them it's just one of those to each their own sort of lie the new Metallic Bonded CBN stones they are costly but they last a long long time and are well worth the money for fast material removal.

I don't know about the KME stones but the Atoma plates I have experience with. I also have lots of experience with DMT and I'm not sure how you are wearing out stones. I have had my set of DMT Diasharps for almost 10 years and they are still going strong.

The Atoma plates are very good, no denying that, but I do not find their longevity to be that good. I'm on my second Atoma 140 in about a years time and its already worn to the same cutting speed as my decade old DMT XXC... which has been used for sharpening and stone flattening in a professional setting.

Not saying you can't wear out a diamond plate but if you are wearing them out sharpening your own knives then you are doing it wrong.
 
Buy the Metallic Bonded CBN or Diamond stones they really cut fast and nothing beats for how long they will last and they cut very fast as well.

Ok, but the Gold series stones are only offered in 1"X4" size. Double this size and I would be interested. Of course then the price would be doubled as well. DM
 
When I think of fast cutting, Crystolon comes to mind (besides diamond stones). Silicon carbide stones like the Norton Crystolon shed grit readily, so there is always sharp abrasive exposed. They'll cut any steel, in a hurry. ZDP189 is just a bunch of Chromium carbide, and SiC is much harder than K1 and K2 Cr carbides. Vanadium carbide is harder than SiC, but at coarse grits, it doesn't matter.
 
When I think of fast cutting, Crystolon comes to mind (besides diamond stones). Silicon carbide stones like the Norton Crystolon shed grit readily, so there is always sharp abrasive exposed. They'll cut any steel, in a hurry. ZDP189 is just a bunch of Chromium carbide, and SiC is much harder than K1 and K2 Cr carbides. Vanadium carbide is harder than SiC, but at coarse grits, it doesn't matter.

Problem is,
They dish and load really badly too but hey they're under $30. Heck I got one for about $10 at the hardware store. The Fine side is 320 grit. Pretty difficult to deburr at that grit or have good push cutting precision.
I'd want more polish on my ZDP especially in the kitchen. More finesse, more precision, speed.
 
Problem is,
They dish and load really badly too but hey they're under $30. Heck I got one for about $10 at the hardware store. The Fine side is 320 grit. Pretty difficult to deburr at that grit or have good push cutting precision.
I'd want more polish on my ZDP especially in the kitchen. More finesse, more precision, speed.

It's true that the SiC stones that are most readily available in brick-and-mortar stores tend to be lower grit and don't lend themselves to highly refined edges for the purpose of push cutting. However, I really like the 1000 grit SiC benchstone I bought from Gritomatic. It seems to leave a really nice, moderately polished edge easily capable of whatever push cutting chores I give the knife in the kitchen while also maintaining a grabby, aggressive edge. Ultimately that's just a personal preference and some like to go higher than that in their kitchen knife sharpening, which is fine. For me that 1000 grit stone checks all the boxes. Now if I were using a sujihiki and was doing a lot of fine fish cutting, I might re-evaluate how high of a polish I chose to put on.
 
Yes, I'll give Hero his point about SiC stones will dish and load. For me this is not much of a problem to fix. I have a DMT x coarse and it does not cut as fast as my 80 grit ACE Hardware SiC stone. And Gees this stone only cost me 5$. So, I'll deal with some cleaning and leveling once in 2-3 years for this economy. Then like Peter ^ I went a head and purchased a finer 300 and 600 grit SiC stone. The last one will remove a burr easily and leaves a more refined edge. I don't care to take my edges higher than this level. So, this type grit can work while offering better economy. DM
 
^^^^Wait just a minute, mister. Are you juxtaposing knife collecting and sharpening with economy?

I've got to sit down a moment and catch my breath...

:p
 
I've been tempted to buy a higher grit SiC stone, given how much I like the cutting performance of the Crystolon I have. I use the DiaSharp XXC (120 micron) to flatten it, and it does so lickety split.
 
I've been tempted to buy a higher grit SiC stone, given how much I like the cutting performance of the Crystolon I have. I use the DiaSharp XXC (120 micron) to flatten it, and it does so lickety split.

samuraistuart samuraistuart ...

If you've used oil on the Crystolon stone, does it cause any issue with the DiaSharp? (I know mine came pre-loaded with oil and has only been used with oil subsequently.)

Always wondered if just wiping off the Crystolon stone would be sufficient to not cause issues with the XXC diamond plate if it were to be used subsequently for flattening water stones. (Obviously there would need to be some soap and water involved between using it for flattening each type.)

I have loose SiC grit from my Edge Pro flattening kit that can be used for the Crystolon as an alternative.

Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.
 
You should have no problem flattening an oilstone on a diamond plate. If it was me I would use a fair amount of soap with some water to help it cut freely then clean the plate up well after I was done. Cutting stone and ceramic on diamond plates is what they are for, cutting steel is what is hard on them.
 
You should have no problem flattening an oilstone on a diamond plate. If it was me I would use a fair amount of soap with some water to help it cut freely then clean the plate up well after I was done. Cutting stone and ceramic on diamond plates is what they are for, cutting steel is what is hard on them.

Yeah, I just, (perhaps needlessly), worry about any residual oil left over after cleaning, fouling up, say, a Shapton Glass stone flattened on the same diamond plate afterward.

Not really too worried about the diamond plate being injured.

(It's also a job probably better off performed outside to keep oil and sludge getting into the septic tank needlessly.)
 
I rinse mine outside or apply oil and wipe with a cloth.
SiC grit will sharpen up to cpm154, D2, 440C, ect. steels like these. With no problems. Once you get into the vanadium carbide
steels that's where diamond stones come into play. DM
 
I rinse mine outside or apply oil and wipe with a cloth.
SiC grit will sharpen up to cpm154, D2, 440C, ect. steels like these. With no problems. Once you get into the vanadium carbide
steels that's where diamond stones come into play. DM

Sharpened them all on SiC, India, ceramic, Arkansas etc before I ever had diamond hones. Sometimes the wife and / or dog would avoid going anywhere near the part of the house where the muttering and cursing were emanating from. That's when you begin to learn to use the right tool for the right job. :p
 
I understand that part of the house is Yours.
If one prefers diamond, then use it on all steels. Get the vitrified bonded diamond should you like as those have a lot going.
It doesn't harm us sharpener to be exposed to different tools for the job. We can learn new tricks. DM
 
Get the vitrified bonded diamond should you like as those have a lot going.
It doesn't harm us sharpener to be exposed to different tools for the job. We can learn new tricks. DM

I just got a couple in the mail today to try out for myself. I enjoy working with different media and tools.
 
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