Favorite Carbon Mora?

What is your favorite Mora with a carbon steel blade?

  • #1 with birch handle

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • #2 with birch handle

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Eriksson 510

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Eriksson 511 (with guard)

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • 711

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 740 Craftsman

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 780 Craftsman Triflex

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 840 Clipper

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 911

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other (please specify in thread)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1
Well that's true of course, I do have a custom Kydex sheath for my Clipper (which fits them all, I have several) but I think they should all come with a good sheath in the first place...like the Allround. :D

Well, it is a good point you make.

But, like most knives, many people are unhappy with the sheath that comes with their knife. Pretty common. But, it keeps me in business, which I certainly appreciate.

Best,
Marion
 
746G all the way! I own 3 of them and processed my deer with them this year. I round the spines, strop the edge, chop the belt loop off the sheath and they're ready to throw in the pack. A little stropping and you can do this with it:
SplittingHairs2.jpg

SplittingHairs1.jpg
 
Well, it is a good point you make.

But, like most knives, many people are unhappy with the sheath that comes with their knife. Pretty common. But, it keeps me in business, which I certainly appreciate.

Best,
Marion
As I ...typed some posts ago, I make leather sheaths for my bad-sheath moras, and is happy with them. But some of those consealex sheaths is a little interesting, I`ll admit that.

michaelmcgo, the 746G is a stainless, inn`t it. There is no reason to scorn a stainless mora, I use my Spyderco Double Stuff ceramic hone on them, and tend to keep them #sharp#.
timann
 
I've never had any but since they're so cheap I'm going to try a few. I think the 510, 780, and Clipper perhaps?
 
I've never had any but since they're so cheap I'm going to try a few. I think the 510, 780, and Clipper perhaps?

Those three are probably the ones most talked about...

But, the 510 is discontinued, and gone for good from some places....

The Clipper is probably the most common, I would say...

And the 780 really has it's fans... I love the handle, but I don't have much experience with the Triflex steel.

I like the 711 and 911 pretty well too.

Best,
Marion
 
The 510 is indeed discontinued (Ragnar was one of the last to have them that I know of, and he's taken it down from his site), but remember, there's still the 511 and 511-G with the finger guard. The guard is simple to remove if you don't want it. I took one off in a few minutes using my Vic Farmer. The 510 had one of the better sheaths (slim, low-profile, ambidextrious), but the 511's isn't too terribly bad and will still work with the guard removed.
 
zanetopbridgenorthhirschcreek2s.jpeg


Hopefully the image will show without clogging the thread - and show that the grandson chose a Mora 200 after trying all of my knives. You bet I have the image in high resolution!
Besides the safety glasses and headset, there was his favorite whistle which Marion David Poff sent me to test so many years ago. Yes we're still testing as my hearing gets worse, and the bears get more plentiful (Bears are attracted by some dual tone whistles - even more so than by varmint calls.).

I love all Moras of course - and I still have my first one with which I batonned down many green alders of about 8" diameter for show and beaver feed - and with less success here - seasoned wood. In drier places of course, one can make a low angle cut and use body weight to open the split.

I stopped visiting Bladeforums regularly when the wilderness forum became too acrimonious. Clearly huge progress has happened and as I was amongst the first to criticize I would like now to compliment everyone for what I see here.

If I recall correctly I was the first person to write a Mora review here. But others had recognized the worth of a Mora. Alberta Ed's moose handled Mora:
edknife1.jpg

edknife2.jpg

Gorgeous and effective then and now, those are super Moras!

A few years ago on Outdoors-Magazine we did some tests between regular and convexed Moras. Yep we spent lots of time full convexing Moras to test against properly sharpened regular Scandi grind. What that really showed was that the quality of the grind in whatever form was the over-riding factor - so there sure is no need to get back into grind arguments.
But for years I have proposed that if one takes two identical Moras and:
1. Goes the whole route on flattening (and maybe convexing) ONLY the bevels and polishing - on the first.
2. Does the same on the second - then spends time first flattening then convexing the flats (sides) of the knife then one will see ridges where the tops of the bevel shoulders meet the sides of the knife. So one rocks the knife to find 45 degrees and hones the shoulders. A drywall sander loaded first with emery then with cardboard loaded with green buffing compound does the job wonderfully for $8.00.
# 2 will win in ease of use in everything from batonning to wood carving.
So an experiment by many people might profit. Old people like me become delusional sometimes.

I had a huge shock when I tried a Bull Cook's knife - so widely promoted in Herter's "Bull Cook's Handbook".
We're probably all good at sharpening - even stuff like the Murphy Knives Small Sport:
http://www.rmurphyknives.com/
I would propose that you will have much of my side flattening and convexing heresy to contend with before making a clipper knife thinness into something which will skin, slice and dice a swede as well as a Murphy! Notice that swede is NOT capitalized. And stop right now if the knife doesn't remove the skin easily - or with any force needed to slice!
Murphy's:
smsportfuz1.jpg
 
I voted for the 780 Triflex because it gets so amazingly sharp and it feels strong. I wish the handle had a better texture and I've slipped some bike inner tube over it and it feels pretty good, but I probably just need to break out the soldering iron.

I also love the 510, but I wish the handle were a little longer.
 
I think it would be fun to do a SITH (sheath in the hat) for a specific Mora. I have an 840 and just ordered a 511...

Anyway, I think it would be a fun thing to do... I'm wrong now and then ;)
 
zanetopbridgenorthhirschcreek2s.jpeg


Hopefully the image will show without clogging the thread - and show that the grandson chose a Mora 200 after trying all of my knives. You bet I have the image in high resolution!
Besides the safety glasses and headset, there was his favorite whistle which Marion David Poff sent me to test so many years ago. Yes we're still testing as my hearing gets worse, and the bears get more plentiful (Bears are attracted by some dual tone whistles - even more so than by varmint calls.).

I love all Moras of course - and I still have my first one with which I batonned down many green alders of about 8" diameter for show and beaver feed - and with less success here - seasoned wood. In drier places of course, one can make a low angle cut and use body weight to open the split.

I stopped visiting Bladeforums regularly when the wilderness forum became too acrimonious. Clearly huge progress has happened and as I was amongst the first to criticize I would like now to compliment everyone for what I see here.

If I recall correctly I was the first person to write a Mora review here. But others had recognized the worth of a Mora. Alberta Ed's moose handled Mora:
edknife1.jpg

edknife2.jpg

Gorgeous and effective then and now, those are super Moras!

A few years ago on Outdoors-Magazine we did some tests between regular and convexed Moras. Yep we spent lots of time full convexing Moras to test against properly sharpened regular Scandi grind. What that really showed was that the quality of the grind in whatever form was the over-riding factor - so there sure is no need to get back into grind arguments.
But for years I have proposed that if one takes two identical Moras and:
1. Goes the whole route on flattening (and maybe convexing) ONLY the bevels and polishing - on the first.
2. Does the same on the second - then spends time first flattening then convexing the flats (sides) of the knife then one will see ridges where the tops of the bevel shoulders meet the sides of the knife. So one rocks the knife to find 45 degrees and hones the shoulders. A drywall sander loaded first with emery then with cardboard loaded with green buffing compound does the job wonderfully for $8.00.
# 2 will win in ease of use in everything from batonning to wood carving.
So an experiment by many people might profit. Old people like me become delusional sometimes.

I had a huge shock when I tried a Bull Cook's knife - so widely promoted in Herter's "Bull Cook's Handbook".
We're probably all good at sharpening - even stuff like the Murphy Knives Small Sport:
http://www.rmurphyknives.com/
I would propose that you will have much of my side flattening and convexing heresy to contend with before making a clipper knife thinness into something which will skin, slice and dice a swede as well as a Murphy! Notice that swede is NOT capitalized. And stop right now if the knife doesn't remove the skin easily - or with any force needed to slice!
Murphy's:
smsportfuz1.jpg

Jimbo - Good to see you again! I am gonna have to read your post a few more times, before it sinks into my thick head, but I wanted to post and tell you that it is really good to see you again!

Marion
 
I have quite a few Moras. Here are some of them:


For me it was a toss-up between the 711 and 840. The 711 is very comfortable, but in the end I voted 840:
 
Yep there we are far up in the wilderness. Luckily the first meeting with a black bear was on the other side of the glass of my front door and - well I put up a video with griz before realizing.
His father had met a few bears without telling me, while growing up here, but I was surprised when his mother allowed him to get a Red Ryder BB gun to be used under supervision with proper eye/ear protection and locked in a case in the meantime. It's worked really well! We work together well on principles such as guns being locked up when not in use and safety gear. I guess I see her method. Some people in Alberta might be careless with firearms. And an 8 year old might be near, and might be hurt or learn bad procedures. Grandpa is coming and is really pissed is likely to cause change if grandpa is big.
My grand-kids have done well, or i am supporting them still. because they will do well, eventually. I pay and have faith.
unfortunately the pics of him with whistles are by the river with life jacket. A woman died there because of no life jacket and the problems of the river. so I'd prefer just to send those pics to you now, Marion.
Seriously I have tried to test your whistles but it meant people whistling for me to hear - since I lack hearing higher frequencies. Given the increase in both black and grizzlies here, it didn't work well. Mostly they're attracted.

So asking an 8 year old to choose a knife is never a problem. The gun part was well supervised and properly so. But we do carry guns for protection here, so even children must be aware of responsibilities and dangers. It was so good to be able to say that WE always carry a high performance whistle . We did need to test in a safer environment to see just which whistle an 8 year old old could blow and get distance,
So, we may not be getting too far yet, but we're still treating those whistles with respect!
Yes it's stopped dead when I'm asked "Where's your whistle?" I produce a whistle or we go home to get one.

And what a joy to showcase Ed's work from so long ago!

Skills always remain the same: around here we have disputes over fire boards and drills in museums: seriously! Woodcraft people realize the importance of seeing ancient drills and boards locally.

Gosh Marion still here?

It's so wonderful to see you here and i just ope for Ed to chip in! If he doesn't then his works are great. But I hope he will chip in because things are better now.

You bet you will have to read a few times! I like to think that what I have to say is significant.
I'm tempted to show THE whistle which works best for an 8 year old now....Dammit yes we tried them all plus mine and my friends! Yes I'm getting deafer by the day...
The thickness of blade matters a lot so given a micrometer thickness i will be able to tell whether a person is BSing about slicing a swede.
Whether people really see an improvement after flattening and convexing the blade sides, is to be seen.
 
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