Hopefully the image will show without clogging the thread - and show that the grandson chose a Mora 200 after trying all of my knives. You bet I have the image in high resolution!
Besides the safety glasses and headset, there was his favorite whistle which Marion David Poff sent me to test so many years ago. Yes we're still testing as my hearing gets worse, and the bears get more plentiful (Bears are attracted by some dual tone whistles - even more so than by varmint calls.).
I love all Moras of course - and I still have my first one with which I batonned down many green alders of about 8" diameter for show and beaver feed - and with less success here - seasoned wood. In drier places of course, one can make a low angle cut and use body weight to open the split.
I stopped visiting Bladeforums regularly when the wilderness forum became too acrimonious. Clearly huge progress has happened and as I was amongst the first to criticize I would like now to compliment everyone for what I see here.
If I recall correctly I was the first person to write a Mora review here. But others had recognized the worth of a Mora. Alberta Ed's moose handled Mora:
Gorgeous and effective then and now, those are super Moras!
A few years ago on Outdoors-Magazine we did some tests between regular and convexed Moras. Yep we spent lots of time full convexing Moras to test against properly sharpened regular Scandi grind. What that really showed was that the quality of the grind in whatever form was the over-riding factor - so there sure is no need to get back into grind arguments.
But for years I have proposed that if one takes two identical Moras and:
1. Goes the whole route on flattening (and maybe convexing) ONLY the bevels and polishing - on the first.
2. Does the same on the second - then spends time first flattening then convexing the flats (sides) of the knife then one will see ridges where the tops of the bevel shoulders meet the sides of the knife. So one rocks the knife to find 45 degrees and hones the shoulders. A drywall sander loaded first with emery then with cardboard loaded with green buffing compound does the job wonderfully for $8.00.
# 2 will win in ease of use in everything from batonning to wood carving.
So an experiment by many people might profit. Old people like me become delusional sometimes.
I had a huge shock when I tried a Bull Cook's knife - so widely promoted in Herter's "Bull Cook's Handbook".
We're probably all good at sharpening - even stuff like the Murphy Knives Small Sport:
http://www.rmurphyknives.com/
I would propose that you will have much of my side flattening and convexing heresy to contend with before making a clipper knife thinness into something which will skin, slice and dice a swede as well as a Murphy! Notice that swede is NOT capitalized. And stop right now if the knife doesn't remove the skin easily - or with any force needed to slice!
Murphy's: