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Favorite sharpening method

R

remfallen

Joined
Jan 2, 2024
Messages
36
So what’s everyone favorite sharpening method? So far I’ve used a stone, belt sander, and work sharp precision adjust, and I can get all my knifes to shaving/paper slicing(with the occasional catching) sharp. Work sharp precision seems to do the best but that’s to be expect since the other two are free hand and I’m still new to this. Although I can get a good sharp edge on the belt sander with 320,600,1000 then leather super strop. However I can’t seem to get any to that razor sharp edge that can wiggle through paper. I always seem to catch somewhere or just not be as sharp or smooth as I want. Usually 15-20 degree cutting edge. What am I missing guys?
 
DevinT said:
Either you haven’t reached the apex or there is a burr that needs to be removed, or both.

Hoss
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I’m gonna go with apex. I’m usually pretty good at grinding to burr, switching sides and so forth. I can usually get the burr completely gone after stroping.
 
I normally use the 2X72 grinder with belt running in reverse around 300 SFPM belt speed. I'll start with a sharp 400 grit, then 600 or 800 grit belt, then a worned out J flex belt turned inside out so the backing is outside and coated with green compound to remove any burr (AEB-L normally will have a burr). Then a final touch up with a 2X72 leather belt. That leaves a hair shaving edge that will push cut phone book pages nicely.

It is required to create a burr to be sure the apex is fully reached all the way down the edge. The edge will "feel" sharp but looking under a microscope will show the edge isn't quite to the apex yet. With AEB-L work to get that burr, then finish sharpening by removing the burr.

Other alloys don't seem to form the burr as much.
 
I have used several methods, 2x72, 1x30, paper wheel, free hand stone.

Currently I use a guided rod system. I have a Hapstone R2 and ISPROF Pioneer. They give a repeatable edge without a lot of stress.
 
My grandfather owned a sharpening shop that I essentially grew up in, so I learned stones as a child, and still tend to favor them today. That said, I have natural, ceramic, and diamond "stones", ceramic rods, a diamond hone for sharpening gravers, and even have a knockoff of the stick "machines" new, unused, in a box that I've not yet tried. I also use small hard felt buffs loaded with either black or green compound to keep carving knives ultrasharp. Easy to screw that up.

For me, sharpening is an old friend and sort of a Zen moment. I enjoy sharpening a half dozen in a sitting.
 
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I’ve used water stones, Spyderco Sharpmaker, and different guided sharpening systems, but I favor the DMT diamond stones the most.
Start with the lowest grit and continue raising and removing the burr until your edge is shaving sharp. When you notice the edge forming, lighten your pressure a little. When the edge is sharp, move up to the next grit and continue the same process. You can form a wire edge with the higher grit stones, simply remove it by lightly pulling the edge across a piece of wood, plastic, etc.
 
I sharpen knives I make on bench stones by first thinning on a Atoma 140 and then progressing through my favorite stones.

Yes a lot of work but I feel it better sets up the customer for future sharpening.
 
AVigil said:
I have used several methods, 2x72, 1x30, paper wheel, free hand stone.

Currently I use a guided rod system. I have a Hapstone R2 and ISPROF Pioneer. They give a repeatable edge without a lot of stress.
Click to expand...

Wow that Hapstone thing looks cool. It's pricey, but looks great. I LOVE that the stone selections are available from top makers like Shapton and Naniwa. FWIW, I always return to my Shapton Pros as they last forever, cut fast, and develop a great edge. I also use Naniwa in the finer grits because I love the feel. .... wait I just checked their website .... Dang Hapstone even has Naniwa Natural 8000s!!

I've spent a fortune on 2x8 stones, so it's hard for me to get new ones for the Hapstone. But ......

The fact that it's made in Ukraine floats my boat.

(Steve's soapbox: Never ever, ever get stones and not have a flattening (aka lapping) plate. You're just wasting your time and $$. I'd rather have a single 1000 stone and a lapping plate than the largest collection of stones in the world.)
 
I'm rough grinding the secondary bevel with the 2x72 until both sides are just shy of meeting up, (I can see a sliver of light reflected off the remaining unground space between) and then refining with bench stones, (diamond and CBN)
 
I’m getting pretty decent edges with my kadet pro, but I’ve been trying my hand at freehand at the lately. I’m not good at it yet, but steady wins the race, or at least that’s how the saying goes.
I usually get rid of the burr after I hit the strop a couple times, but I got myself one of those felt blocks from CKTG and they work really well for getting rid of any bit of burr remnants. I’m no pro at this, not by a long shot, so please keep that in mind. That said that little felt block works really well for me so far.

I’d be very interested to hear what the pros on here think about using them little blocks
 
I'm using a Hapstone R2 I do think there are better built guided sharpener systems out there but the price was right. I'll do freehand for personal kitchen knives but for customer knives a guided system lets me have consistent edges. I have a very specific method that allows me to get very good edges. I've gone far enough to get a bess tester. My best result has be 54 bess on CPM 4V at 64 HRC.
 
Thescrawnylumberjack said:
I've gone far enough to get a bess tester. My best result has be 54 bess on CPM 4V at 64 HRC
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That’s pretty impressive! If I understood correctly then that’s sharp razor sharpness.
Yeah, I really like to get myself one of those too one day. Mainly just cause they look like a pretty need piece of technology. Although, I saw in a video that they don’t necessarily give accurate readings. Sounds like there is a certain way you have to cut the wire and also how the wire is set up and strung. Do you find there’s any truth to that?
 
huntyukon said:
That’s pretty impressive! If I understood correctly then that’s sharp razor sharpness.
Yeah, I really like to get myself one of those too one day. Mainly just cause they look like a pretty need piece of technology. Although, I saw in a video that they don’t necessarily give accurate readings. Sounds like there is a certain way you have to cut the wire and also how the wire is set up and strung. Do you find there’s any truth to that?
Click to expand...
It’s true that since there is a human factor involved that the test can be intentionally or unintentionally skewed. That’s why if I’m really concerned about an accurate reading I’ll take more than one reading and average them together. There are disposable test clips and one you wind yourself if your looking to eliminate a variable you can use the disposable test clips.

I’ve used it to see if there are any improvements in changes to technique or abrasives used. For example if I test before my final strop and after my final strop I usually see about a 40 point improvement. Not always sometimes it’s less.
 
I use a KME guided sharpener (diamond stones) 180, 300, 600, 1500, then DMT at 2500. Finish with a few strokes on a spyderco ultrafine ceramic stone.
 
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