Favorite sharpening method

Here's a short video on how I sharpen blades on a horizontal disc machine. Sharpening on a disc is far superior to a belt. A disc is flat, a belt is not. We have a 3-d printer that we produce the plastic degree wedges on. This technique is very fast as well as accurate. I remove the burr using an ERU pull thru. It's accurate as well. I turned 80 this January and we celebrated our 50th wedding anniversary. I feel like I've won the race. I still have all my fingers and my wife still laughs at my jokes.
Happy grinding, Fred
 
Married for 24
I think my wife always hated me......is That funny, idk?
😅😅😅😅

*I freeHand on bench stones, but I'm going to watch Fred's video
 
Fred.Rowe said:
Here's a short video on how I sharpen blades on a horizontal disc machine. Sharpening on a disc is far superior to a belt. A disc is flat, a belt is not. We have a 3-d printer that we produce the plastic degree wedges on. This technique is very fast as well as accurate. I remove the burr using an ERU pull thru. It's accurate as well. I turned 80 this January and we celebrated our 50th wedding anniversary. I feel like I've won the race. I still have all my fingers and my wife still laughs at my jokes.
Happy grinding, Fred
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Happy belated anniversary! 50 years is impressive and I take my hat off to you, good sir!
 
Lorien said:
I'm rough grinding the secondary bevel with the 2x72 until both sides are just shy of meeting up, (I can see a sliver of light reflected off the remaining unground space between) and then refining with bench stones, (diamond and CBN)
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I want to start doing it like this as well.

What grit size belts do you use? Ceramic end sharp/fresh belts?
 
Hengelo_77 said:
I want to start doing it like this as well.

What grit size belts do you use? Ceramic end sharp/fresh belts?
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usually a used ao 220 grit x/y weight
 
Ken H> said:
I normally use the 2X72 grinder with belt running in reverse around 300 SFPM belt speed. I'll start with a sharp 400 grit, then 600 or 800 grit belt, then a worned out J flex belt turned inside out so the backing is outside and coated with green compound to remove any burr (AEB-L normally will have a burr). Then a final touch up with a 2X72 leather belt. That leaves a hair shaving edge that will push cut phone book pages nicely.

It is required to create a burr to be sure the apex is fully reached all the way down the edge. The edge will "feel" sharp but looking under a microscope will show the edge isn't quite to the apex yet. With AEB-L work to get that burr, then finish sharpening by removing the burr.

Other alloys don't seem to form the burr as much.
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May I ask please what machine are you using?
 
Freehand is my favorite and the easiest in my humble opinion.

I prefer a nice loose wristed convex using pocket stones in hand . Once you have both the feel and sound down, you can absolutely rip through passes.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
Freehand is my favorite and the easiest in my humble opinion.

I prefer a nice loose wristed convex using pocket stones in hand . Once you have both the feel and sound down, you can absolutely rip through passes.
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I’ve been using this method more and more, followed up by a ceramic rod. I get screaming sharp results from this.

If an edge is obtuse, damaged, or I just can’t get the angle right I break out my Ruixin Pro (edge pro clone).
 
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