Favorite steel?

S35vn won't take as keen of an edge, but has better wear resistance. I like it.
 
I think that we are discovering that AEB-L is pretty good for hard use too.
valknut said:
Sounds s35vn for harder users and AEBL for kitchen and light duty? I still would like to try elmax. I'm hoping chuck can get some in Stock soon.
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jdm61 said:
I think that we are discovering that AEB-L is pretty good for hard use too.
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Aeb-l is pretty tough. It's a surprisingly good performing steel. S35VN has more carbides for better wear resistance. It's pretty tough too. Vanadium carbides give good wear resistance, and refines the grain. I like all steels I have used with vanadium in them, at least all the ones I have tried.

S35VN and Aeb-l are the only two stainless steels I use regularily. If a fine edge is preferred, aeb-l, if wear resistance is preferred, I go S35VN.
 
AEBL is praised pretty regularly around here. I honestly think alot if that is due to devin Thomas and the preformance he's been able to bring out in it. And it's CHEAP like stupid cheap which makes it that much more appealing
 
I did a test with one of the knives I made. It's not the end all be all in tests, but I'm pretty confident in the steel.

[video=youtube;MKoTDpxSsYg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKoTDpxSsYg[/video]

I do another test with the same knife and make approx 220 cuts through 1/4" sisal rope (16'). I use phone book paper to show edge degradation (every 4'). At the end of the test I use a Spyderco Sharp Maker (10 passes each side of the blade) and bring it back to shaving sharp. For the end user I think it's terrific steel.

[video=youtube;sUmzIsXGCWM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUmzIsXGCWM[/video]
 
kuraki said:
Even though the chromium isn't stainless level, does stuff like this resist rust much better than typical low alloy high carbon steel?
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no, i will rust just like any other high carbon steel. I think you need to get above 10% chrome before you see rust resistance. We used a lot of H13 and A2 at the office and they rusted just as fast as plain jane cold rolled.
it is the recipe that drew me in, higher carbon than O1 with more tungsten and chrome and the same amount of vanadium. i have only used the 1.5mm(1/16") stock, i have two test mules that were tempered to Rc64-65 and ground to very thin edges. they cut like a laser but are only used in the kitchen. Bestar USA does import this along with 1.2419(C: 1.05, Mn: 0.95, Cr:1.0, W:1.15), both are used for leather and rubber cutting blades. Chemistry similar to O7 and Hitachi blue#2 the difference being you can actually buy it.
 
Alpha Knife Supply said:
We intentionally waited about five years to add 8670 to our website. We did not want the Admiral problem to keep people from using the steel.

Chuck
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Chuck,
Have you considered carrying 1.2419, 1.2519, or 1.2842? Bestar USA imports it and they now have warehouse in Oregon so shipping should not be too bad. I have considered getting some on my own, but since retiring I no longer have the means to handle and cut 6'x3' sheets of steel.
scott
 
If You are interested in cutting abilities lot of knives here's YT channel where friend of mine testing lot of knives made from different steels including PM steels, damascus steel and wootz. With check of edge with microscope before and after cutting a rope about 20 mm in diameter. Best knives made couple thousands rope cuts...

Knives Cutting Tests
 
I think the only thing this thread has proved is that there is no perfect steel. Everything is a compermise and the cuttoff point is different for every person.
 
52100 for big hard use blades.

Z-wear for mid sized knives- but a pain to grind and finish. Z wear is replacing 3V for my mid sized blades. I still need to do more testing but from customer feedback it has excellent edge holding. It is certainly harder to grind and finish than 3V so the edge holding should be superior. I do not think it can be tougher than 3V simply because of the extra carbides. However, it is still very tough and can take a thin edge just like 3V. I haven't done any destruction testing yet but I doubt there will be a real world discernible difference in a mid sized blade. However, I'm willing to bet the difference is apparent in big blades.

m390 +10V for small slicers.

3V for the times when I want an upgrade from 52100 in a big blade.

AEB-L is really growing on me for hard use blades. Its very, very tough, and easy to grind. Plus it takes a fantastic edge.
 
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JTknives said:
I think the only thing this thread has proved is that there is no perfect steel. Everything is a compermise and the cuttoff point is different for every person.
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Not true. Never once asked about "perfect steel" this wasn't ment to be one of those threads. I just wanna see what more expierenced makers like to use and why.
 
The only reason I said that was because it seamed to be or could be heading that way, this vs this.

But while I'm here I might as well contribute lol.
So far I have not drank the stainless koolaid so I can't help there. But I do use a lot of carbon steel and a few are really becoming a favorit of mine. One of these is 15n20, it's amazing what you can push it to do. I started using it as standalone steel because I had a ton. And I actually mean a ton (2000lbs) but I quickly reliezed it is a heavy hitter in the toughness as well as edge stability at high hardness. Not the best edge retention but sharpens easily and is quite enexpensive.

Another favorit is A2 for the same reasons I love 15n20 but it's more expensive. It does come in any thickness you could ever want which is a downfall of 15n20. It is easy to heat treat if you are setup. I love air hardening steels, a lot less mess to quench. We have some kitchen knives I made out of A2 that preform amazing. Thy take an extremely fine edge and hold it quite well cutting a variety of things.

If I'm forging a blade I go for my huge pile of 52100 bearings. I really enjoy this steel as long as it and I can get along. In the past we had issues with each other but so far I think we have come to an understanding. For me 52100 seams to hold an edge as long as A2 but it's forge-able. Forged some super thin fillet knives out of 52100 and thy preformed amazing. Even ground that thin with that much flex thy blasted through tons of fish and never needed sharpening.

Next up is D2, this is a love hate relationship. Any one that's worked with it knows where I'm coming from. I used it in the past with OK results. Defently not worth the effort that went into it. I have kinda rediscovered it agian now that I can give it an optimum heat treat. I love its wear resistance as well as how it cuts meat. It also has the advantage like A2 being common and found in any thickness you could want. I find that it's a little less tough then A2.


With all that being said I'm using 15n20 more and more for more things. It does have the issue of only coming in thin stock but for the price and advantages it's worth forge welding it togather to make thicker stock.
 
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Well thanks for your contribution JTKNIVES. I remember seeing a post you made not too long ago about 15n20 as a stand alone steel. Definitely something to look into
 
I grind stainless steel and my favorite is CPM 154. It finishes well and if I want a high polish it is super for that . I have The Paul Bos Co. Heat treat my blades to 60 Rockwell with cryo.. Larry
 
JTknives said:
The only reason I said that was because it seamed to be or could be heading that way, this vs this.

But while I'm here I might as well contribute lol.
So far I have not drank the stainless koolaid so I can't help there. But I do use a lot of carbon steel and a few are really becoming a favorit of mine. One of these is 15n20, it's amazing what you can push it to do. I started using it as standalone steel because I had a ton. And I actually mean a ton (2000lbs) but I quickly reliezed it is a heavy hitter in the toughness as well as edge stability at high hardness. Not the best edge retention but sharpens easily and is quite enexpensive.

Another favorit is A2 for the same reasons I love 15n20 but it's more expensive. It does come in any thickness you could ever want which is a downfall of 15n20. It is easy to heat treat if you are setup. I love air hardening steels, a lot less mess to quench. We have some kitchen knives I made out of A2 that preform amazing. Thy take an extremely fine edge and hold it quite well cutting a variety of things.

If I'm forging a blade I go for my huge pile of 52100 bearings. I really enjoy this steel as long as it and I can get along. In the past we had issues with each other but so far I think we have come to an understanding. For me 52100 seams to hold an edge as long as A2 but it's forge-able. Forged some super thin fillet knives out of 52100 and thy preformed amazing. Even ground that thin with that much flex thy blasted through tons of fish and never needed sharpening.

Next up is D2, this is a love hate relationship. Any one that's worked with it knows where I'm coming from. I used it in the past with OK results. Defently not worth the effort that went into it. I have kinda rediscovered it agian now that I can give it an optimum heat treat. I love its wear resistance as well as how it cuts meat. It also has the advantage like A2 being common and found in any thickness you could want. I find that it's a little less tough then A2.


With all that being said I'm using 15n20 more and more for more things. It does have the issue of only coming in thin stock but for the price and advantages it's worth forge welding it togather to make thicker stock.
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There's nothing wrong with those of us who do not use carbon steel.
 
My only experience with S35vn is a Benchmade 940bk. I love that little knife but am considerably less than impressed with the blade.
 
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